Im dealing with a similar situation. But have found that I have no spark. By opening the end of the air intake and giving a little squirt of starter fluid and no start. Opened access to FP and pulled a hose. No fuel. So no fuel no spark. reading lots and lots of forums I have come to the conclusion it is either the Cam or the Crank sensor. The crank sensor is easier to get to and cheaper. I am going to check that first.
Im dealing with a similar situation. But have found that I have no spark. By opening the end of the air intake and giving a little squirt of starter fluid and no start. Opened access to FP and pulled a hose. No fuel. So no fuel no spark. reading lots and lots of forums I have come to the conclusion it is either the Cam or the Crank sensor. The crank sensor is easier to get to and cheaper. I am going to check that first.
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SOURCE: Can't get my 1999 Kia Sportage to start
1999 kia sportages are aP>O>S. I know i have one. my suggestion is to burn it
SOURCE: car won't start after putting gas in it kia 2003
I have seen this problem several times. The EVAP Purge Solenoid in the engine compartment is sticking open. When you refuel your vehicle, the open solenoid is allowing fumes from the fuel tank to flood the intake manifold with fumes. This is what is keeping your engine from starting...too much fuel and very little air. Most of the time your check engine light will also be coming on while you are driving your vehicle and the code that sets will say "P0441 Evaporative Emission System Incorrect Purge Flow" or there will be some other manufacturer-specific code or code description that will read something like "Purge Detected During Non-Purge" or "Purge Control Valve Stuck Open". However, I have also seen this happen without setting any codes at all (also see below). In each case that I have encountered, replacing the purge valve fixed the problem.
Also make sure your engine is turned off and the ignition switch is in the OFF or LOCK position when refueling. I have also seen this caused when somebody turns the engine off, then turns the ignition back to the ON position so passengers can "listen to the stereo" during the refueling process. This can cause the computer to open the purge valve during refueling. When it happens this way, there will be no fault codes stored and no repairs need to be made to the vehicle.
Well for starters, you need to diagnose the problem before replacing anymore parts. I say this because you mention both the fuel pump and sensors dealing with the ignition system which are 2 separate main things. Basically it takes 2 things to make an engine start, fuel and spark at the spark plugs. You need to narrow down what is missing because it seems since you replaced sensors dealing with spark and then you mention the other need fuel. I'm not sure as to where to start to help until whatever is missing is diagnosed and then find the cause of the loss. There are a couple of things you can check. Below is a picture of the relay box in the engine compartment. With the help of somebody put a finger touching both the fuel pump relay and the EGI main relay. While touching them have somebody turn the key to the "on" position (no need to try and start). When the key is turned on you should feel a "click" inside both of those relays. The fuel pump relay will click for about 3 seconds and the click again to shut off. The EGI main relay should stay on. If both seem to be fine you need to make sure of the fuel pump gettting "juice" and for power to the ignition system like the coils. You can get to the power/juice wire at the fuel pump pretty easy. You can access the connection at the fuel pump by lifting the lower part of the rear seat. Once the seat is lifted you should be able to see a part in the carpet that is cut to be able to lift the carpet up and access the plate covering the access to the fuel pump and/or the top of the fuel tank. Using a test light, check the green and yellow wires at the fuel pump. You should have power at those wire when turn the engine over or if the key is just turned to the on position you should have power there for about 3 seconds. To begin checking for spark or power to the ignition system you need to make sure you are getting power to the ignition coils. The red and white wires at the coils are your power wires. Check those. Also you can check the power at the fuel injectors. When the key is turned on or when trying to start, you should have power to the green wire at each of the fuel injectors. You should have constant power/juice at each of the fuel injectors. This is where I would start to narrow down the loss. Start here with these tests and let me know how the tests come out by replying/commenting here or you can email me directly at [email protected] ith what you have found out. Once the first tests are done and I know what the results are, we can go to the next step with a couple of other tests to figue the problem out. If one of the relays don't "click" then you have a possible bad relay. The EGI main relay is a common thing to go as well as the fuel pump relay. Don't mind helping and there is no cost to you for it but I don't want to tell you to start replacing parts until the problem is located. Hope this helps get you started.
Have you checked the injector rail with a gauge to know for sure the injectors are not getting fuel ?
If the pump is running but not pumping fuel I would think it is a clogged filter or screen in the tank.
SOURCE: 1999 kia sportage engine stopped while driving. now turns over but won't start
check the alternator, have a service shop like an auto parts store run a check, they can do it for free in some places. may also be your battery, can get cleaner and metal wire battery contact cleaner and you can also try putting some water into the battery in the area indicating where to put some water.
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