Had new clutch kit fitted and mechined fly wheel new slave cylender and it is still slipping hyundai excel 1997

Replace clutch,bearing and cover plate check fly wheel while assembly is off for wear and spigot bearing in center of fly wheel

Jamie, are you losing any fluid from the clutch master cylinder? By small resistance I presume you mean the pedal feels soft?

If you're losing fluid from the master cylinder you have an obvious leak somewhere and air is getting into the system.

Most leaks occur from the clutch SLAVE cylinder as it does all the work .. If there's no leak from the clutch slave cylinder, suspect the seals inside. It's like a bicycle pump ..the seal inside wears and it won't pump..

You may be able to get an overhaul kit. I'm in the UK .. but here's an Ebay link for a slave cylinder overhaul kit just to show you what it looks like:
FORD CORTINA MK2 CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER REPAIR KIT SP2085
Here's a link to show you what the slave cylinder itself may look like (it may NOT be for your vehicle..)
CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER FORD FIESTA ESCORT
It's easier and quicker to fit a new slave cylinder than it is to strip down and replace seals with a kit. Be aware, after overhauling or replacing a slave cylinder you have to bleed it - remove the air.

The easiest way of doing this is to make sure the reservoir is fill of fluid, crawl underneath the car with a spanner/wrench, place a rag over the bleed point and get somebody to pump the pedal a couple of times while you undo then tighten the bleed nut.

If it's not the slave cylinder at fault- then it's the master cylinder. Master cylinders also have a 'piston' and rubber seals which wear/perish.
However, it's more than likely that it's the slave cylinder at fault

Always make sure there is free play on the pedal or clutch wear will be accelerated

Were you careful not to get your hands on the face of the clutch disc too much? Any indication of oil or grease around the disc, like from a leaking rear crank seal, when you changed the clutch?
Did you bleed the slave cylinder, to get all air out of the system?

If still no help, someone will have to troubleshoot it. A new clutch should not slip, especially with the flywheel polished to smooth.

need to re bleed the slave

Sounds like bad clutch but that should have been replaced when fly wheel fly wheel worked on.

hi,at the side of the gearbox there is a green round cover when it is removed there is a fork like lever there they normally brake or it can be faulty clutch parts that is fitted.hope it is usefull

dont listen to them, easiest way is: remove air intake box(3 nuts)
remove nuts surrounding the outer gearbox(about 6) and then remove the gearbox mounts
lower the gearbox and move slightly to the drivers-side. best to put a block or jack under it. then take the fly-wheel off(marking where it sits against the clutch kit)
and then pull the clutch plate off, making sure all fingers are not bent. i picked up a full clutch kit 2nd hand for 25$

when you bleed the system you need to force fluid from the slave cylinder up threw the master cylinder . this is proper way to bleed clutch system.

hi considering age of car and that you have no leaks on hydraulics? may i suggest you try bleeding the clutch to rid of old fluid a couple of pumps may be suffice ? b/fluid does absorb moisture and heat over time hence recommendation tat fluid be changed at period specified in handbooks ie 12 monthly ?