Manual transmission 91 honda crx will not go into gear shortly after start up or when vehicle is off.

it might be on the steering column

Does your transmission and clutch work perfectly fine, no noise or any problem? I can't imagine why the idle would jump from dis-engaging the clutch from the flywheel. When you do that, the transmission input shaft is no longer turning with the flywheel- it becomes stationary. If the input shaft had worn gears or a worn bearing, I suppose it could put a little load on the engine, make it work harder to maintain rpm's. So when you push the clutch in, that load from turning a worn bearing or gear disappears and your idle increases. How's that for a crazy solution?

Don't know much about crx, but I assume the computer controls idle? If it does, the ecu would have no compensation in idle speed for pushing the clutch pedal down.

so the problem is that you cannot get it into gear from a stop
(grinds trying to force into gear) . if you have a clutch pedal, what I mean is that clutch pedal has pressure behind it,moves up and down by itself, then its a clutch assy needs replaced.clutch disc/pressure plate/release bearing. if there is no pedal,falls to floor, its either clutch slave or clutch master failure issue(lost all fluid). but nothing points at needing a transmission,it should be fine

Stick a magnet on your pedal and if it doesn\'t stick then it\'s the OEM pedal and should be replaced with the steel pedal.

Pontiac had this \'awesome\' idea to make the clutch pedal out of aluminum and after 20 years the pedal actually starts to bend and bottom out on the floorboard before giving you all of the travel necessary to disengage the clutch. Fierostore.com sells a replacement pedal for about 50 bucks. This is the first place I would start since it is what fixed my 1986 Fiero GT 4spd.

If the problem is still manifesting then move onto bleeding/replacing the clutch master/slave cylinders.

I\'ve also seen the brackets on the transmission that the shift and select cables attach to have worn out and introduced a bunch of slop in the shifter, but this is less common.

I\'ve also seen the clutch release bearing seize because of a broken release bearing fork slipping around the collar and grabbing the freely rotating part of the bearing. This then leads to pressure plate fingers breaking off and soon no matter how hard you push, the clutch won\'t disengage. Tranny has to come out. Seen this once.

And last but not least, I\'ve also seen a nut on the inside of the transmission shift/select shaft come loose and leave the tranny stuck in the 3/4 fork. Seen this one time 5 years ago.

Good luck,

Rebel Faggioli

Your clutch is not releasing, check the slave cylinder. Consider bringing it to a professional.

it depends if you a a d series or b or any other there's different series so u have to go according the type of engine you have

Problem fixed--bad distributor

Either your clutch is not fully dis-engaging or the transmission synchros are worn. Check the clutch master cylinder for level and check system for any leaks if it is a bit low.

I don't know much about cars, but I've got a service manual for your care in case you need one. It's BIG, 300mb.

Let me know if you need it.

if its manual transmission, when moving in any gear try stepping on the gas pedal, does the engine feels like its running away? if it does it maybe the clutch lining is expended expensive job.
If not you have to check the clutch fluid level or a leak in the master cylinder (at the foot pedal) assembly or in the slave(clutch lever actuator) the clutch actuator may not be traveling (pushing) sufficiently to give you an adequate clutch separation in other words you are trying to shift the gears with little or no clutch at all.
There is an overhaul kit that you can buy (cheap) for the master or the slave. easy to do really just remove, disassemble, replace the rubber seals and cups, reinstall, bleed the air out.