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What is the pipe called from crankcase to cam box cover(engine oil vapour)

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I presume you are describing the Crankcase Breather pipe?
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Posted on Mar 04, 2009


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2 Answers

What is piece called that pcv valve connects to on motor

The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve is part of moves made in the early 1980's (in Europe, earlier in the States) to limit crankcase emissions to atmosphere by arranging for them to be channeled into the engine intake so environmentally damaging oil mists and vapours are burned in the engine.

The pcv valve is a common method, but not the only method of achieving the aims. One end of the valve is usually connected to the engine, usually at the top on the safe side of the internal flame trap (cam cover, rocker cover) and the other side of the valve is usually connected to the intake manifold via a suitable hose.
The valve might be threaded and screwed in, a press fit into a plain hole or retained with a rubber grommet.

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I,m looking for the name of a hose that comes off the throttle body pipe that goes to the crankcase on my 2003 9-5 2.3t?

I *think* that's the crankcase breather: it carries oil vapour generated in the crankcase to the inlet, so it gets burnt in the cylinders of the engine, which is preferable to allowing it to vent to the atmosphere unburnt.

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Mazda B2500TD 97model l have problem with oil

You have excessive engine breathing/pressure. When you did the overhaul did you replace the rings etc and deglaze the bores because excessive crankcase pressure is your problem and its forcing the oil down the breather pipe. Poor valve guide stem seals is another area.

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Volvo v50 t5 oil leak

Most likely it is the breather tube and/or the oil trap box (integrated into the oil filter housing). if the box is plugged or the diaphragm is torn the box will send oil to the top of the engine via the hose.

do you also have a high pitched whistling noise?

Volvo has extended the warranty for the oil trap box (filter housing) to 120k miles and/or 10 years.

Jun 11, 2012 | 2006 Volvo V50 T5

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I will try and simplify the problem. I have an oil leak, which I traced up the back of the engine to the cylinder head area.
When I removed the top plastic cover on top of the coil packs I found oil in every recess next to the coil packs. The crankcase breather pipe was also off. The source of the leak is not evident, but it is definetely above the cylinder head gasket area.

Jun 11, 2012 | 2006 Volvo V50 T5

1 Answer


See here p147 for a diagram

The PCV valve and hose are on the suction (vacuum) side of the throttle, and this is meant to **** oily crankcase vapours into the inlet manifold for burning.
This should be replaced by fresh air from the upstream or atmosphere side of the throttle, the top hose in the diagram.
When the PCV valve and its hose gets blocked, and the engine is a bit worn, Combustion blow by pressure and oil vapour in the crankcase builds up and is not sucked through the PCV valve. Instead it is forced into the intake tract.
So check the PCV valve, hose, and bleed return hose to make sure they are clear OK. If the problem persists, your engine has probably developed worn piston rings, and blow by is now too high to control properly.

Mar 27, 2012 | 1995 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Take engine out of 1995 cadillac sts

6L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the air cleaner inlet duct.
  3. Matchmark the hood hinge-to-hood and remove the hood.
  4. Drain the coolant from the radiator.
  5. Remove the left and right torque struts. Install the left front strut bolt back into the bracket.
  6. Disconnect the radiator hoses at the water crossover. Remove both cooling fans from the engine.
  7. Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt.
  8. Detach the cruise control servo connections and the ISC motor electrical connector.
  9. Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body cam. Disconnect the shift cable from the park/neutral switch. Remove the cable bracket at the transaxle.
  10. Remove the park/neutral switch and disconnect the power brake vacuum hose.
  11. At the rear of the right head, disconnect the cylinder head temperature switch.
  12. Remove the bellhousing bolts.
  13. Remove the ignition coils and remove the spark plug wires.
  14. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  15. Remove the oil pan-to-transmission brace. Remove the torque converter splash shield and the four converter-to-flywheel bolts.
  16. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the oil filter adapter.
  17. Remove the A/C compressor mounting bolts and detach the electrical connectors. Move compressor out of way.
  18. Detach the electrical connectors from the left side of the engine and move the harness from behind the exhaust manifold.
  19. Remove the two nuts that secure the motor mount to the engine cradle front crossmember.
  20. Remove the exhaust Y-pipe and remove the right front wheel.
  21. Remove the crankcase to transmission bracket at the transmission tail shaft. Disconnect the knock sensor.
  22. Remove the bolt from the transmission to the cylinder head brace at the cylinder head.
  23. Lower the vehicle. Disconnect the fuel inlet and fuel return lines using special tool J37088 or equivalent.
  24. Detach the injector harness connector and the hoses from the coolant reservoir. Remove the reservoir.
  25. Disconnect the cam position sensor. Disconnect the heater hoses from the water pipes at the front of the right cylinder head.
  26. Disconnect the battery cable from the junction block and remove the retainer at the cylinder head.
  27. Disconnect the starter cable from the junction block.
  28. Disconnect the power steering pump pressure and return lines at the pump. Return power steering line retainer from the right front of the crankcase.
  29. Disconnect the rear oxygen sensor.
  30. Remove the three screws securing the wiring harness retainer to right cam cover and position harness out of the way.
  31. Connect an engine-lifting device to the engine using the support hooks at left and right rear of engine. The torque strut bracket at the left front of the engine should be used as a third lifting hook.
  32. Carefully remove the engine from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Lower the engine into the vehicle. Remove the lifting device.
  2. Install the 4 bell housing bolts and tighten to 75 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Install 2 nuts to the motor mount at the front cradle crossmember. Do not fully tighten.
  5. Install bolt to the cylinder head for transmission brace. Do not fully tighten.
  6. Install the transmission to crankcase bracket with the 4 bolts. Do not fully tighten the bolts.
  7. Tighten the motor mount to cradle crossmember bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Tighten the transmission brace bolt and transmission to crankcase bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
  8. Install the right front wheel and connect the knock sensor.
  9. Install the exhaust Y-pipe.
  10. Install the 4 torque converter to flywheel bolts and tighten to 45 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
  11. Install the converter splash shield and install the transmission to oil pan brace. Tighten the bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  12. Position the A/C compressor in place and install the mounting bolts.
  13. Route the electrical harness along the left side of the engine and connect the connectors.
  14. Connect the oil cooler lines to the oil filter adapter.
  15. Lower the vehicle.
  16. Secure the wiring harness to the right cam cover with the 3 screws.
  17. Connect the rear oxygen sensor and connect the cam position sensor.
  18. Connect the power steering hoses to the pump and secure the return line to the crankcase.
  19. Connect the heater hoses to the water pipes.
  20. Connect the starter and battery cables at the junction box. Secure battery cable with retainer.
  21. Connect and install the coolant reservoir.
  22. Install coils and secure with 4 screws.
  23. Install the serpentine drive belt and connect the injector harness to the FIS harness.
  24. Connect the fuel line connectors. Connect the cylinder head temperature switch to the rear of the right head.
  25. Connect the power brake vacuum line.
  26. Install the park/neutral switch and shift cable. Adjust switch if necessary.
  27. Install the cruise servo and connect the ISC motor.
  28. Connect the throttle cable and install both cooling fans.
  29. Connect the radiator hoses to the water crossover.
  30. Install the torque struts and adjust the preload to zero.
  31. Connect the negative battery cable.
  32. Refill the engine with coolant. Install the hood and install the air cleaner.
  33. Start the engine and check for oil, coolant, or transaxle leaks.

May 06, 2011 | Cadillac STS Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

99 A6 - 2.8 - engine vapour

ck to see if valve cover gasket is seeping oil onto hot exhaust manifold, making smoke and a pretty good odor

Nov 09, 2008 | 2006 Audi A4

3 Answers

1994 Suzuki Vitara V6 H20A Engine smoking intermittently from exhaust

I have a Mazda which in Australia (here) is called a 323 Astina, overseas a 323f, Familia, etc.
It uses a 2.0L Mazda KF Engine very similar to (in fact co-developed with) the Suzuki H20A engine, except designed to be transverse, variable resonance induction and other different tuning inc. 7000 redline, and probably not as reliable as an H20A.
I've had the engine rebuilt because I want to keep this car for a while and it needed it. Oil slipped past the rings which burned out grooves on one of the exhaust valves on Cyl-6 to the point where that cylinder had no compression...
... but I still get smoke occasionally, as you describe yours except not as often nor on the open road at speed. It happened ever since the first time I changed the oil after the rebuild. The tech who rebuilt it used a grade of oil I couldn't find and, liking synthetics, I used a lighter oil.
About the time you were writing your message, I replaced the rubber intake pipe feeding the throttle body and I noticed the inside of the intake manifold lined liberally with oil. The old pipe had oil only at one end.
The pipe I replaced didn't just go from the air mass sensor on the filter box to the throttle body. There was also a large pipe to an air reservoir (a lengthy pipe sealed at one end so that if you open the throttle quickly, you don't have to wait for more air to be filtered before it enters the engine, supposedly) and a tiny pipe to PCV valve.
It's not a long pipe so it's easy to look inside. The reason I'm boring you with all of that detail is because you'll almost certainly have a different one, but this is still most probably something you'll find feeding your intake manifold a supply of oil. The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve runs from one of the rocker covers (not that we have rockers) into a pipe feeding into this intake pipe. It's supposed to **** air in from the intake pipe due to a vacuum created by another pipe connecting from another part of the crankcase to the intake manifold (after the throttle body so it has a lower pressure than the intake pipe) and that might be happening in my engine but oil is, or was before the rebuild, seeping back into the intake pipe.
Being a transverse version of your engine, the PCV valve is on the front bank and the pipe from it to the intake pipe is quite short. The PCV valve is also situated above (if I remember correctly) a cam lobe so at higher revs, the oil gets flicked up into the PCV valve.
... so use an oil which is thicker at high temperature, do a compression test, or as I'm considering, run the pipe from the PCV valve into a canister to catch the oil before feeding the gasses into the intake manifold. That way less of the thinner oil will be burned off and I'll have a better chance at getting away with using it.
I use 15W40 Oil - viscosity of 15 weight (units?) when hot, 40 in Winter (which the W stands for). I should use 20Wxx, perhaps, to burn less oil.
This engine likes thin oil, it just goes on to liking it enough to inhale it. This engine also likes higher revs.
Hope that helps.

Jul 31, 2008 | 1999 Suzuki Vitara

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