The turbo has gone on this vehicle and I'm a do it yourself kind of guy. If you can help me by providing an instruction list, manual pictures or some link to this particular job and year, make,model .of this vehicle it would be greatly appriciated. Thank You, Skyler
SOURCE: I need instructions for replacing the turbo on a Saab 1999 9-5 4 cyl turbo
Hi, I have done this and it is not too bad, but will take you about 4 hours if you are good, and longer if you have not done much mechanics.
The trick is to find a reasonably priced turbo, check ebay. There is a dude on there that just does rebuilt turbos. Very good, got mine for $
I have been reading up on turbo replacement procedure and I have found
this list: First, there are a couple of questions that I have about the
list:
2 air openings, pretty easy to figure out
2 exhaust openings, pretty easy to figure out
3 round openings in the center, all banjo bolts?
1 round / two bolt opening in the center.
1 Hose fitting off of the waste-gate
1 Hose fitting off of the air side of the turbo.
STEP 1 Open the expansion tank cap to release the system pressure.
STEP 2 Raise the car & Remove the lower front cover under the car
STEP 3 Drain off the coolant & Remove the turbo brackets
STEP 4 Loosen the return fitting and the pipe from the turbo to the block
STEP 5 Loosen the oil pipe between the filter adapter and the turbo
STEP 6 Lower the car to the floor & Remove the bypass valve & Unplug the connector from the control valve
STEP 7 Disconnect the mass air flow sensor connector & Loosen the hoses to the turbo
STEP 8 Remove the crankcase banjo bolt from the intake manifold and unscrew the bolt from the cam cover
STEP 9 Move the pipe and wiring aside & Remove the engine lifting eye
STEP 10 Remove the mass air flow sensor and air hose
STEP 11 Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield by removing the nut and two clips from underneath
STEP 12 Undo the intake manifold clamp at the turbo & remove the intake
STEP 13 Disconnect the hose clip on the hose between the intercooler
& turbo & plug it to keep something from falling in it
STEP 14 Loosen the front exhaust system from the turbo & lower the
front exhaust system away from the turbo (DO NOT BEND -THE FLEX HOSE)
STEP 15 Remove the oil pipe from the oil filter adapter & grab the copper washers
STEP 16 Loosen the coolant pipe by the turbo & grab the copper washers & loosen the coolant pipe bolt
STEP 17 Remove the coolant return pipe from the cylinder head & pressure sensor bracket. Once again, Grab the copper washers
STEP 18 Undo the coolant return pipe bolt by the turbo
STEP 19 Undo the nuts securing the turbo to the exhaust manifold. (spray the nuts with WD40)
STEP 20 Install in Reverse
Just did this for the first time. Here are a few hints that may help others.
1) PB BLASTER is your friend. Remove the exhaust top front heat shield and hit exhaust nuts with PB Blaster as soon as you start the job, or night before.
2) Make sure that you have 12mm closed end wrench with AND without
ratchet. Also a 1/2 size 12mm socket if you can find / make. These will
help.
3) You don't have to remove the oil filter, but there one bolt that it would be nice for. I did not and did manage to get the job done.
4) Take you time. More of finding the right tool combination for each bolt.
5) Two banjo bolts on the turbo were really on there. Needed to use a mini-acetylene torch to eat up.
6) Have extracting sockets and bits ready just in case there are issues getting bolts / nuts off.
Turbo had quite a bit of end-play, but spun fine. Classic symptoms,
blue smoke at start up and from time to time when driving. It was also
making a bit of noise at idle.
jeffo2 ort11
Also, should get new copper washers. I did not have I have some micro leaks from time to time but nothing bad.
SOURCE: 2000 Saab 9-5 SE 3.0 V6 it needs new driver side mirror
Rockauto.com partstrain .com... the best prices and and you get almost everything ..../ Car-parts .com junk yards parts
SOURCE: 1995 Saab 900SE V6
having a problem with my 1995 saab 95 when having the muffler change all of a sudden the casket and the value are blowed, those this happen offen, or is it related to the muffler that this can happen, please help me with this? Hperez
Hello
The engine
and automatic transmission in this vehicles drive train
are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM
(Power Train Control Module). Whenever a problem like this occurs the
computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some
exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature
sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in
its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems
memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read
you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and
resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A
TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR
HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM
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