1989 Masda Protegedle only. When RPM gets to 800 it dies. Will not accelerate above fast idle.

this 17 years old a good run. nothing new here on failures this old.
all car fail that is what they all do eventually. (entropy etc)
let me guess never fails in others hands
and scans show nothing wrong, but sure too late then, they are gone.
so is and engine problem, so we focus there.
engines (gas, in order fail for 3 ways)

1. engine is bad, or cat melted (no) and egr stuck open (no)
2. bad spark (fuel can not burn lacking spark so why skip #2?)
3. bad fueling. too much or too little

in that order,

not enough evidence stated.
RPM's sink on start sometimes dies then usually it catches itself, idles high a few seconds then lines out.

runs great hot engine, so I guess fails only cold engine.
so bad spark plugs, bad spark coil boots or bad COPS
or bad CKP or CMP
why not just put in new plugs and new boots,
17years old those are NEVER GOOD.

ENGINE IS: 3.0L 2v or 4v (means 6x2 =12valvs or 6x4=24vavle heads.???? it has COPS, coil over plugs(spark)
6 cops ,6 new spark plugs and 6 new boots.
or learn now scan and drive,
or scan in the morning dead cold as the RPM go nuts
and does it misfire going nuts the RPM> misfire is spark first
or flooding 2nd the cold fast idle speed is wrong (IAC)

all I here is almost STALLS at cold start means why below 800 rpm hot and 1500 rpm cold so stalling is what MISFIRE?
can you prevent the too low RPM and stall with fast right foot action?
I say bad spark if not bad spark that is leaking injector or pair

learn to listen and feel for misfire,
and to use the right foot , adding throttle extra air to make it burn clean. Misfire s mostly violent. felt , heard, and see if you view the engine shack.
that is all I have but scanning it failing is how you fix cars

nobody can fix working car delivered a work car...
I have scan tool that logs and then play them back and bingo
GOTCHA. (P0306, and number 6 injectors is bad) see?

to fast hot and too fast cold that it?
well here is normal, its a G16 engine, a Vitara with Sidekick badge.
G16 in cold weather, start and race idle at about 1500 rpm
or more if in ALASKA, you never said that or how cold it is.
the IAC valve is thermal, it and opens more colder, a fact.
the 8valve engine (black steel top) is faster. cold idle
then drops in a few seconds, to 1500rpm
at this time, the ECU brain does NOT control idle speeds at all.
the the engine warms up by virtue of the thermostat
as it warms to 150F to on way to 180f stock temp.
the ECU then takes control of the idle speeds.
got that so far?
so at 180f the idle is 800 rpm (800 is hard coded in the ECU,
ad ECU regulates this, unless you turn on the A.C , and if that happens 1000rpm is called up.
if not the ECU cant control it or the ECU is in limphome mode or worse.

if you insert the diagnostic jumper
does the CEL lamp flash 12s
it must.
see this paper clip this is your only scan tool.
it is crude but that is all you get until 1996.

http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html#OBD1codes

Code for high idle is different,are you sure was 245?could be 225

old post
all do, everyone. but. the devil really is in the details with EFI.
this IAC valve does that,
to speed it up warm up , put in a 195F thermostat.
this assumes 800 RPM is hot.
most of these engines, do this. new. bewlow.

1: cold start, for 3 to 15sec, 2500 rpm , worse in alaska.
2: then the above DASH pot closes and IAC takes over, at ~1200
3: then as engine heats the IAC closed inch by micro inch a
its now 100% closed and the ECU not controls idle hot.
using the modulated ISC,
there is a fast idle feature on this year, 950 to1000 rpm hot
with these turned on.
1. headlights hot.
2: defrost glass, rear.
3: heater fan on.
4: a/c on if opted.
other wise 800 is normal hot.

i guess you didnt notices engine RPM is like 300 and engine shakihng at that illegle RPM?
did your fast acting right foot get rpm back, to 800 (normal hot) easily./
what engine, what year,
?????

no year, wow.!
sounds like gross loss of engine power
or
you started car and didnt notice RPM was 400 rpm.
the engine has almost no power at that rpm.
the normal cold start (winter) is about 1500 RPM.
if not at fast idle fix bad fast idle (Bad IAC)

when i say bad IAC that means the system IAC is bad,not just a part.
the IAC /ISC controls idle at all times, via ECU commands.

Check the connections on the fusible links. There are youtube videos on the subject

id go for chicken feet and blood and voodoo , sessions.....loL

first off, i see an illegal fast idle ,
and all A/T trannys do that, when the engine rpm fraks up.
to move car, due to the stall speed rules of the clutch torque converter (aka ,the fluid clutch) wiki clutch stall speed.

that A/T weakness, is why folks run over kids. (the lame excuse)
starting a car with foot off the brake is , folly, thus the lock all outs called park lock features.

i can not follow your sequence of events.so will ask questions.
1: I start the engine, its don't want to but does. (ever tune it up?)

2: Does the CHECK engine lamp go out (CEL/SES)? running.
for sure, if the engines stalls many lights will glow in the cluster but that is normal, see? for any stall.!
The Charge light comes on anytime the Alternator goes dead
or hits near 0 RPM (stalled)
so are you saying at 3000 rpm, the charge lamp came on.
/??????
battery lamp is not battery, its really a Charge lamp.
the op guide states that too.
on my car I have a battery gauge too, and shows VOLTS.
at idle its 14v. its 14v at all rpm. if less, say so.
I have 2004. GV. with full manuals. even factory FSM. ++++++

ok , in drive, no acceleration, are you saying ,
1: im in A/T drive.
2: the engine is idling at 800 RPM hot or near 1500 cold
3000 is wrong, dead wrong, you in ALASKA, state location(gen)

i increase the RPM with my right foot and the car don't move
in DRIVE
as RPM rises above 1500 RPM, you do have a tacho , i see that.
if it does not move with hgher RPMs, the trans is bad or its TCM is bad.
on your car the TCM is hidden deep inside the PCM. back in 1997.

the PCM runs the engine and tranny today.
if something lies to the TCM/PCM the tranny will not go into drive.
on newer 96+ cars, you see the check engine lamp glow.
running (not stalled, stalling this CEL glows all the time)
but running, the CEL glowing means Faults found, scan me,. please.
eg:
so you scan it, and find DTC's stored (many?) eg.... in english...
the transmission selector switch is bad. or worse.
not using a scan tool ,means ($7 cost) means you miss all the facts. hard cold real facts.
the ECU can not shift any car with a bad selector switch.
so throws the DTC error.
it can be even be a loose selector cable, cave man simple.

recap.
does the CEL lamp stay out running at all times.
no, ? then scan it.
do not post car problems with stored, or pending DTCs on any car newer than 1995. or its just wild guessing.. mostly.

RPM's up and down check EGR valve and sensor. EGR valve and sensor control idle. That's why your getting the surging on rpm's and this could be giving out the other codes. If mass flow was bad car will not start and the same for the map sensor. O2 sensor measures gas and air for right mixer. TPS controls 0-60 speed as in throttle respons.

take your car for a tune up
if they are carburetor type motors you may need your carbie cleaned and a tune up
if you clean it your self with carbie cleaner it may increase in idle speed this is nothing to worries about it is a simple adjustment
with a carburetor type motor they tend to idle higher when their cold this is the automatic choke kicking in and normally it should happen till the car is a bit warmer and the accelerator has been depresses
although a car should idle at 800 rpm my paddok car dose when it is cold it idles at 1200rpm i like it this way as the car warms up quicker as i will not drive a car while it is cold
hope this helps
ricko