My original V10 threw a rod in my 97 2500 4x4, so I swapped it out for a 95 V10 out of a 3500. I use my coil pack off my 97 plus my camshaft and crankshaft sensors and upper intake manifold (plenum) also my original exhaust manifolds. All my engine electrical systems were working when my original engine threw a rod. Is there a difference between the 95 V10 and my original 97 V10 that will cause me to have no spark? I really need help here as I spent all I have on this engine and parts and supplies to get it in my truck and my vehicle up and running. It's my only transportation. I just can't understand it having no spark as we've double and triple checked all connections . Any help or advice will be appreciated. I thank you in advance.
SOURCE: two dead cylinders no spark on 1 nor 6 cylinders
Based on your readings, the fuel trim of -33 shows that it is running rich on that bank. Disconnect the coil on number one cylinder. With a 12 volt test light connected to ground, probe one of the two wires (engine running). One wire should be hot all the time, then connect the test light to a positive source (battery B+) and probe the other wire. The other sould be flashing on and off while running. The PCM provides ground to the circuit to fire the coils. If you don't have a pulsing light then the PCM circuit is faulty, if no constant power than the coil power source is in question. Don't attempt to fire the coil for testing without a load attached (spark plug) this burns out the driver in the PCM. Check continuity of the driver wire from PCM to the coil, if it is good and the other wire has power then the driver in the PCM is bad and a new PCM is what it will need. I hope this helps.
SOURCE: I need to remove the upper intake manifold from my
First off, you need to label all of the electrical and vacuum lines connecting to the intake manifold. This will make reassembly much easier. Then, there is a torque sequence to be used during disassembly and reassembly.
This image is of the TIGHTENING SEQUENCE. Reverse this to take the manifold off. This is important so that the upper intake manifold is not warped at all, which would decrease the quality of the seal. Be careful during disassembly and reassembly to avoid bending any lines or tubes. If things are in your way, disconnect them rather than pushing them to the side. This will avoid pinching inner linings which cannot be seen visually.
As for the gaskets, (as far as I am aware), Chrysler's (Dodge's) official stance on the manifold gaskets is that they are reusable. However, this is if they ALL look good under close inspection. Any tears, "melting", or other damage means the gaskets should all be replaced. They are not expensive, and I believe they all come as a set including both upper and lower gasket sets. Personally, I would recommend replacing them regardless. This would be a good preventative step to help extend the life of the vehicle. Also be sure to check the cooling line O-rings and replace them as necessary, following the criteria above.
Good luck and I hope this helps, even though I see it is a bit late.
SOURCE: 1995 dodge dakota 2wd 3.9 no spark to plugs,or coil,orfuelpump
First of all let's explain how the spark gets to the plugs. There is a crankshaft position sensor and a cam sensor. They are what determines when to fire the coils and injectors. The crank sensor is located on the passenger side on top of the bellhousing, the cam sensor is the pickup plate in the distributor. As the engin turns the send refernece pulses to the computer which grounds and ungrounds the ignition coil causing it to discharge and send voltager from the secondary coil wire to the center tower in the distributor cap. The rotor button recieves the voltage and distributes it to the 6 towers (1 for each cylinder) If you say you're getting spark from the rotor that tells me the primary side of the ignition system is working, and the secondary side is working into the distributor cap. I'd check for spark out of the plug wires at the plugs. Pull a wire and insert a #2 phillips screwdriver into it, hol the shaft of the screwdriver aprox 1/8"(no more) from the exaust manifold and observe the spark as someone turns over the engine. You should see a nice blue spark. If theres spark, spray a little gum cutter in the throttle body an crank it, if it fires you have a fuel problem. Install a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail and observe it as you crank it. If theres no fuel pressure maks sure there's fuel in the tank, if so climb underneath and beat on the bottom of the tank with a rubber hammer, the pump may be going bad, sometimes you can jar them and make them run.
SOURCE: replacing intake manifold plenum
what the hell is the question here? nothing. remove old one and put new one in.
SOURCE: Wife's durango is idling rough and running rough
With both codes pointing at TP sensor, I'd certainly take the time to replace it, as well as make sure connections to it are clean, and good. Chances are, you won't be able to take part back anyway. As far as exhaust goes, if it's leaking in the right places in may cause improper readings at sensors downstream, but if not obvious leak, I wouldn't be concentrating in that area right now.
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