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If by lights, you mean the dash lights come on, then ignition switch must be getting power. If dash is not working with key on, check the 30 amp fuse link which powers the ignition switch. If switch is good and starter is good, the start wire from switch goes to, if automatic, to inhibitor relay (the park/neutral function) and then to starter. There is also an inhibitor switch on the shifter or on the transaxle that turns on the inhibitor relay when key is on and shifter in park or neutral. The inhibitor switch is powered by a 10 amp fuse D. If you have a manual transmission, the start wire from ignition switch goes to the clutch interlock relay and then to the starter. This relay is turned on by the clutch interlock switch on the clutch pedal. You can check for power on either relay, the inhibitor relay or the clutch interlock relay, with a test light. Pull the relay out, have the key held in start position. Now both relays would have power showing on two terminals where the relay plugs in. If inhibitor relay only has power on one terminal or no power at all, either ignition switch is not sending power or fuse D is out or the inhibitor switch is not working right. If clutch interlock switch does not have power on two terminals either the ignition switch is not sending power or the clutch interlock switch is bad. If the relay checks are good, check for power on the small wire to starter with key held in start. If you have power there, the starter solenoid must be out.
sure its the key switch-may be the ignition switch on steering colum--or othr things like a module etc--40 and 50yrs ago it was easy to play with wiring but today becareful-cud burn computer--get a mobile mech with experience
sound like ignition switch keylock cylinder bad.if you cant get ignition key in the ignition switch, it would impossible shift transmission into drive or any other gear.
Why don't you just buy a new ignition switch and put it back together the way it was originally designed instead of "rigging" something that will probably end up burning your car to the ground?
Maybe the ignition switch burned up. A lot of juice travels through them and it has happened.
What is confusing is, lights will work without the switch. You should be able to turn lights on without the key in the ignition. But a radio normally needs the ignition turned to ACC (accessory) or ON. And some when left on don't turn off with the key off until the door is opened.
Possibly the ignition melted and is affected to where the radio still gets power as if it was in the ACC position
Your Sonata is equipped with a "Keyless Entry & Burglar Alarm" system. When the Burglar Alarm is activated, it KILLS the starting system through the used of a relay called the "Burglar Alarm Relay". This mode prevents engine starting with the key. Solution #1 Disarm the system with the Keyless Remote (key fob) If you don't have this remote (or its battery is dead) replace the battery & try disarming again. Solution #2 Enter the vehicle & insert the key in the ignition and turn the ignition switch to 'RUN'. Wait 3 to 5 minutes until the alarm stops. You should then be able to start the engine.
Have a qualified/certified Hyundai Service Technician properly diagnose this issue.
First you need to see if there are any visual leaks, (place cardboard under the car)
Is the car smoking? (blue smoke out the exhaust),
I had a saturn but don't remember if the door key and ignition key was the same ?
the cigarette lighter fuse is usually the accessories fuse, the ignition switch may need lubricating, to do this use graphite powder put some on the edge of the key as you push it into the switch, you may have to do this a few times to get enough in,DON'T use WD40 or the like as this only attracts dust & clogs the switch up more.......hope this helps......cheers.
Your problem sounds like a faulty ignition switch--I'm basing this on the fact that if you jiggle/hold the key in a certain way, your car will run. It should be relatively simple to swap it out.
Note that the ignition switch comes in 2 parts: (1) the lock cylinder for the key and (2) the electrical switch behind the lock cylinder. Your lock cylinder (usually, the more expensive part) is probably fine; the wear or loose wire is most likely on the electrical piece of the ignition switch.
If you're handy, this may be a self-repair--you'll need the car's key to help release the lock cylinder so you can get to the ignition switch. However, you may need to disassemble some or all of the steering column shrouding to get to the switch connectors (this will be an unplug / replace kind of item). Before doing any of that, make sure you disconnect the battery, as you don't want to accidentally cross a wire and end up with a face full of exploding air bag. If you take this to a garage, I suspect that this would not be a major repair in terms of cost.
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