Mt heat wot work just replaced blower motor 1 month ago.

1 Open the hood, and remove the cover from the fuse block. Locate the fuse numbered "105,"and remove it with a fuse puller.

2 Install a replacement 40-amp fuse in slot "105," and reattach the fuse block cover. If the blower is still malfunctioning, you may need to replace the motor.

3 Open the passenger's side front door, and locate the blower underneath the right side of the dashboard. Remove the three screws securing it to the vehicle.

4 Remove the three screws securing the motor to the fan blower, and install a replacement motor.

5 Reinstall all of the screws, and close the door.

Got much the same trouble... Well similar anyways. Started with burned wires in the harness above drivers side fuse box. Headlights stayed on even with switch off and key out. Then melting of the break light fuse ( bypassed that with an inline fuse to the break light switch). Then my park lights done much the same thing, now I turn the truck off and the heater fan stays on but wont turn back on after I move the switch to off. Also it will turn off if I turn on the parklights. Ugh

check blower fuse,switch,if good could be blower motor

Hi, here are some possible solutions for you. When the heater was staying on, the relay was probably stuck on. This normally indicates the relay is shorted, but this can also be caused by the body control module. When it finally stopped, it could be that the relay burned open or the 30 amp IGN 3 fuse burned under the hood. What I suggest first is to check the fuse and replace it if burned. This will probably leave the fan on again, if it was burned. Next, pull the relay out of the socket in the interior fuse box--the fan should stop. Push the relay back in--does it click? If the relay doesn't click when pulled in and out but the fan goes on and off, the relay is shorted and needs to be replaced. I'm assuming your lower blower settings don't work either. Those are a different circuit. Check the 15 amp HVAC fuse under the hood for those. If that fuse is good, the resistor has likely failed. Sorry, but I don't know where the resistor is on your car. It will be somewhere between the motor and the switch, and it's mounted in the heater housing with wires coming out--some go to the motor and some to the control panel.Take it out and inspect for heat damage. If no heat damage, check it for continuity. It's also possible that the switch is bad, but that would not cause the blower to stay on.
Please let me know what you find out and I'll be happy to guide you through the troubleshooting.

hi

the problem lies with the selector switch.there is some short circuiting taking place inside the switch.so please replace the selector switch.

if my information was usefull please rate me

first the easy problem is the blower. it has a faulty resistor. it works on 4 because 4 bypasses the resistor to give you full power.

the sunroof sounds like you've got a shorted wire somewhere. the open power wire has to be shorted to a 12v power sorce. there should be a sunroof fuse. check the owners manual for it's location. but if the wire is shorted it may open without it. you may have to remove the headliner to unplug the sunroof motor itself.

Replace your blower motor relay. It's located under the hood on the firewall passenger side.

i do not have a diagram for the fuse layout however
looking at your fuse box pull ONE fuse out at a time and check that they are not blown they should have a link in the plastic if there is no link then it is blown most cars have the radio and cigarette lighter linked together and this is normally about 10-15 amps.
there is also a fuse for you heater controls however this normally stops the fan "blower" from operating if your temperature control is electric then the motor that moves the arm to mix cool and hot air flow may be damaged
hope this has helped
ricky

If you know the fan works with direct battery voltage and you have no voltage at the fuse block then you have a problem at the fuse block. You need to remove it and check for corrosion or a short. This could also have something to do with your radio and buzzer. Pull the fuse for the radio and remove the buzzer and then check to see if your test lamp lights across the 25 amp fuse opening for the blower.
Also with fuse in place check for voltage at the yellow/brown wire going into the blower motor switch. Just cover all your bases before going at removing the fuse block.

I had a similar problem with the blower not shutting off so the dealership replaced the resistor pack under the dashboard.

The blower stopped working several months later and the lights would turn off if you turned the blower to the on position. It was causing a drain on the power so things like the lights and rear defrost did not work. The blower had an internal short and was replaced.