I HAVE CHANGED WATER PUMP THERMOSTAT ALL THE COOLANT HOSE RADIATOR COOLANT TANK AND CAP DID COMPLETE TUNE UP I ALSO CHANGED THE DCCV THAT IS BRAND NEW AND COOLANT IS BRAND NEW DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT CAN SOLVE MY PROBLEM MONEY IS LOW WIFE IS PREGNANT
If I read correctly, you said you changed DCCV, did you bleed the air out of the system? If not this will cause this as well.
SOURCE: 2001 Lincoln LS heater blows
When the engine is cold,check the coolant level.
Make sure it's on max.
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A coolant system should be flush every two years.
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If you did a coolant flush recently then air pocket can be the cause of the un-even heating problem.
The DIY method is to drive you car onto a ramp or a steep hill.
Iet the engine cool off and top off the coolant tank.
Set MAX heat + MAX fan
Let the engine ran for 20 minutes wih the cap off and the trap air will escape from the coolant reserve tank,
Check coolant level and top off coolant when the engine cools down.
A shop will charge $75+ for this but using an air operated excavate tool!
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A car with over 90K miles may experience linkage problem to the heater control valve.
The heater control valve (near the firewall) may be stick over time.
Open the hood and move the heater to max and min. Back and forth.
Clean and lube the linkage with WD-40 to free the heater control valve.
If it's a vacuum type heater control valve then cash for leaky vac. hoses.
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Move the fan switch back and forth to re-new the electrical conductors.
Pass a vacuum over the control panel to prevent dust build up behind the console.
SOURCE: Dual Temperature controls inside - 2002 lincoln ls
The problem is most likely a bad dual climate control valve. This component is located on the right side near the radiator under the hood. It will have several coolant hoses hooked to it and 2 silver cylinders protruding from it. You can clamp off the heater hoses at the heater core and see if both sides cool then and this will tell you that the valve is letting coolant thru when it shouldn't be.
This will narrow it down to either the valve or the control head inside the car,or wiring in between them. The only way to narrow it down further is if you have a scan tool that could access the climate control data. Have seen several of these valves cause this concern and have only seen one control head cause it.
SOURCE: I have a 2004 Lincoln LS and it blows cold air on
It is probably the (DCCV) Dual climate control valve. It is located RT front of engine with heater hoses and wires goin to it. I ordered one from Rockauto.com for about a $100.00 i think. It is pretty easy to change and I found out when mine went out that it was a very common problem with these cars. When mine quit it started the same as you are describing for a while then it only would blow hot air and it blew the a/c compressor fuse. The DCCV is a dual cylinder valve and i beleive that they get stuck open and short out. If you have any more questions or need more information let me know.
SOURCE: A/C blowing hot air in 2005 Lincoln LS
It could be the dccv or the evap. discharge sensor,driver's temp sensor or pass temp sensor. Without hooking up a tester to read pids there is no way to tell. I would recommend going to someone that has the ids tester to read pids. good luck.
SOURCE: my lincoln ls v-8,is running hot after i changed
About the only thing left is the radiator. First, and cheapest, is have your radiator cap checked to ensure it is holding to the pressure spec for your car. It may just be cheaper to repalce the cap.
Check the radiator hoses for leaks or kinks.
The core may be plugged and in need of a flush...
Sometimes it's hard to tell if a radiator has enough flow. Here's a couple of quick tests. Although they're not as good as removing the radiator and flow checking it with a machine at the radiator shop, they can be done on the car and are fairly easy.
FIRST TEST
Feel the radiator fins as the engine warms up. As the thermostat opens, the entire radiator should start to get warm .WATCH OUT FOR THAT FAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If only part of the radiator gets warm, it may be clogged in the cold areas.
SECOND TEST
Remove the radiator cap with the engine cold. Squeeze the top radiator hose to get a "feel" of how it squeezes under zero pressure. When the thermostat opens and you can see the coolant circulate, replace the cap and IMMEDIATELY rev the engine up (3000 RPM or so) while squeezing the top radiator hose. The hose should remain fairly easy to squeeze. With a clogged radiator, you can actually feel the hose "stiffen up" and get hard to squeeze as the engine speed increases.
HOW TO FLUSH YOUR COOLING SYSTEM
The best flushes are two part: a strong acid and a neutralizer. The one part flushes aren't as strong. The strong flushes get rid of more scale and deposits, but you run the risk of 'eating through" the extremely thin and cheap radiators and heater cores they have today.
Prestone and others make a "backflush adapter" which fits in a heater hose and accepts a garden hose.
No matter how you do it, I'd replace both the top and bottom hoses, bypass and heater hoses, and possibly the thermostat.
When you remove the bottom hose almost all the coolant will drain out of the system. You really shouldn't just dump this coolant: be a little "green" and at least pour it down a drain so the wastewater treatment plant can deal with it before it gets in the groundwater!. The best is to go to your regular mechanic and let him put it in his coolant recycling tank. Mechanics are required by law to have one.
Fill the system with water. If you decide to use flush, add it at this time. Start the engine and let it warm up. It might be necessary to hold your hand over the radiator filler while squeezing the top hose: the thermostat will be closed and may keep the water from circulating. If no water touches the thermostat, it WILL NOT OPEN AND OVER HEAT YOUR VEHICLE!!! I always drill an 1/16 inch hole in the flange of a thermostat to keep it from "air locking" like that: the better thermostats already have a bypass hole for this purpose.
Once it is warm, follow the can directions regarding the flush, if you use it. If you aren't using flush, skip these next few steps.
If iut's a 2 part flush, remove the bottom hose or open the radiator drain **** if it has one. (the drain **** will usually be on the opposite side from the bottom hose inlet on the rad. After it drains, replace the bottom hose and refill the system as outlined above. After it has been refilled, remove the top hose. Get a piece of pipe that fits either over or inside the top hose: this will make this step a lot neater.
Put a hose in the radiator filler and turn it on. Run the engine. Fresh water is being added by you via the radiator, the water in the engine is being pumped out of the top hose. Run water through it until the water exiting the top hose runs clear.
Re-attach the top hose and add the neutralizer, if a 2 part flush. Drain and repeat both of the above steps to remove the neutralizer from the system. If a one part flush, as soon as the water runs clear you are ready for coolant. Drain the system as outlined above.
Reattach all hoses, put in the antifreeze first. Complete the fill with water.
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