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1976 seville headlights not working but parking lights work side lights work brake lights work, need info on headlight switch replacement or how to get to a reset button if it has one, the new switch seems to have a reset button. no fuse for headlights showing in fuse box
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Hi Julie let's see what we can do here go back to the rear socket you have front parking lights yes/no if yes the the problem is either corrosion inside the socket or a wire is broken or the headlight or brake light switch so first let's do this turn on headlights see if all lights are on (parking tail headlights next change to just parking lights check again next use 4 way flashers and next use brake pedal there are 2 filaments in each bulb and you need to record when it's not working so EX.HEADLIGHTS PARKING LIGHTS ARE IN 1 FILAMENT ////BRAKE LIGHTS TURN SIGNALS AND 4 WAYS THE OTHER ONE IF AFTER CHECKING THERE IS STILL NOTHING ON THE LEFT SIDE AT ALL NOW IT'S A WIRE OR THE SOCKET IF THERE'S ALSO NO PARKING LIGHT IN THE FRONT IT'S THE SWITCH FOR THE HEADLIGHTS GET A GUY TO CHECK THE WIRE CONTINUITY OF THE TAIL LIGHT FROM THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH AND THE POWER COMING OUT FOR THE LEFT SIDE TAILIGHT AND CHECK THE BULB SOCKET FOR THE SAME CONTINUITY TO GROUND AND FOR 12 VOLTS YOU DIDN'T LIST WHAT VEHICLE THIS IS BUT THE PROCESS IS THE SAME A CORRODED LIGHT SOCKET MAY BE YOUR PROBLEM HERE WHEN YOU CHANGED THE BULB WAS IT BLACK AND CLOUDY LOOKING OR JUST CLOUDY WHITISH LOOKING WATER COULD BE GETTING INTO THE TAILIGHT CAUSING A SHORTING CONDITION AND COULD HAVE BURNED OUT THE SOCKET
Normally this condition is the result of a poor body ground connection. Testing for this can be deceiving. At the static(nothing on) condition, testing can show a good ground. However when a circuit is excited, it has a determined resistance and a set current flow. If the ground connection to this or a branch circuit is loose, corroded, or broken wire. This will allow just enough connection to show as being good, but not good enough to complete the circuit with the required amount of connection when energized.
These are all different circuits. The brake lights are on a 10amp fuse - the headlights are on a 50amp fuse - and the parking and dash lights are on a 20amp fuse. Do you have power going into the headlight switch and the brake light switch ?
Could be the headlight switch. The switch has two sets of contacts for the parking lights, the park position and headlight position. You may need to check the circuit at the switch to see if you are loosing power when the switch is moved from park to head.
Yes I would look for a ground circuit problem. I would look at the ground wires for the headlights first. Even run a new ground wire for the tail lights to see if it helps. Could be a ground connection for the body to frame or body to battery.
There is a relay that controls the headlights, volvo calls it a step relay. You will have to check that power is getting to this relay. If not, check all fuses and wiring. If power supply checks out ok, you may have to replace the relay. Let me know if you need any more info or a wiring diagram.
Check all the bulbs at tail end for parking and brakes, test grounds and harness for trailer. Check fuses. clean batery terminals, Re instal head light swich properly and make sure all wires conect.
Vitally
The relay has nothing to do with the tail lights, but replacing the switch sounds like a good idea. There's a nut holding it in place, see http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/electrics/switches/switch-headlight/1027524/ to get an idea of the construction. And the price. This is not worth fiddling about unreliable workarounds... In addition, if fuses 15 and/or 16 burn frequently there might be a problem with the tail light cabling.
I' have seen 2 headlights go out at the same time. Pull the plag on one
light and see if have 12 volts with the switch on. If you have voltage
then your headlight is bad. If you do not have voltage then there could
be a bad switch or wiring problem.
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