Engine revving high on idle and when changing lower gears

SOURCE: 1985 toyota 4x4 22re missing and rough idle

Have you pulled out the spark plugs to see if there are any tell tale signs on them.They are a good indicator of many problems that occur and can save a lot of time isolating the problem.They should all be the same colour.Is the air box and lid properly secured with no leaks or splits in the intake tube.Have you put injector cleaner in the fuel tank to clear up any possible dirty injectors.Therse a few things your problem could be including engine vacuum leak which you can find by lightly spraying carburettor cleaner around suspect places such as inlet manifold and around injector seals.

SOURCE: car revs too high

you can ajust the engine rpm idle from the idle screw and air flow screw on the intek housing

SOURCE: Idle and gear shifting 1987 celica automatic

I would suggest hat you replace the timing belt. The noise that you hear is the belt.

SOURCE: 1996 Toyota Camry is slow to change gears when accelerating

Automatic Transmission: Is your speedodometer working fine? Not jumping around one irratically? My inlaws Ford Taurus would act like that, but when their problems were present their speedo wasn't functioning. I changed out their speeo sensor and the problem was solved. I'm not saying that's your problem, but if your computer is relying on your speed sensor to tell it when to shift and the sensor is not working it the computer will go into a safe mode and not allow the transmission to shift (automatic transmission) out of 2nd gear. Otherwise I would lean toward transmission troubles. Could be as simple as changing your transmission fluid and filter. If the filter has never been changed with those kind of miles its long long overdue. All you do is jack up and support the front of your vehicle on jack stands remembering to block the rear wheel with a 2x4 or something large that the vehicle can't roll over and then place a drain pan under the transmission oil pan. If it has a drain plug then simly remove it and drain the transmission fluid into the drain pan. When done draining, replace the plug. If it doesn't have a plug then you will have to loosen all of the bolts holding the Transmission oilpan just a little bit and then work on loosening the bolts to the rear of the oil pan so that it drains from the rear of the pan allowing you to more accurately determine where the fluid is going to come out at. You may have to lightly pry the pan loose from the transmission if it doesn't start to drain once the rear bolts are loosened. You want to only loosen the front bolts about 2 full turns and then gradually as you work your way back loosening them just a little bit more the closer you get back to the rear of the transmision oilpan. The front of the vehicle is already up in the air so the oil should run to the back of transmission oil pan. Finish draining it and then remove all of the bolts and remove the oil pan from the transmission. Look at the new filter so you know what it looks like when you look for the old one to remove. Look to see how it is fastened up into place and remove the bolts / screws holding it in place and then remove the filter and put the new one on. You may have the design where it's held on by pressing it on with your hand because it has a rubber seal attached to the filter. After the filter is in place you need to use a clean rag and clean and dry the mating surface on the transmission where the oil pan touches. If there is a gasket there then you will have to remove and replace it with one from the Filter Kit. This should be done anytime you remove the pan. If it is a rubber style gasket then you will not need any RTV sealant. If it is a paper or cork gasket then you need to purchase a sqeeze tube of RTV sealant. Pay attention to the package details of the RTV because not all are for transmission fluids. If you need to use the sealant then read the directions carefully and then re-install the new seal. Put the Trans Oilpan back into place and if you are using RTV then make sure that when you are tightening down the bolts that hold the pan to the transmission that you do not over tighten. You don't want to sqeeze all of the sealant out from between the mating surfaces. Remove your jackstands and unchalk your rear wheel, then lower your vehicle back down. Under the hood you will need to find where the dipstick is and with a funel, refill the transmission with the recommended transmission fluids that is right for your make and model vehicle. If you are not sure then ask your local parts store.

Manual (Stick Shift) transmission: you may have a bad clutch or worn out throw-out bearing. If you let out on the clutch and the vehicle feels like the clutch is still partially engaged and it takes a lot more gas to get to speed, then it sounds like you've smoked your clutch due to either normal ware and tare or operater driving habbits. I would look into replacing the clutch. Inspect the flywheel for discoloration like bluing or yellowish colored metal that idicates that it has gotten HOT. You'll have to drop your transmission out and then you will need to remove the clutch and fly wheel. Inspect the flywheel for cracks. If you see hairline cracks around the bolt holes or anywher else on the surface then you'll have to replace it. If you do not see any cracks then take it to shop or parts store that have the capabilities and can look it over to make sure it didn't get to hot (to hot means the temper in the metal has been taken out. Temper is the hardness of the metal, so if the temper has been lost, then the flywheel could be brittle and dangerous if re-used. You may be in luck and the flywheel didn't get to hot therefore allowing you to be able to keep it and just have them turn a new surface on it with their lathe. Just like when you have your brake rotors and brake drums turned. Replace the throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, clutch and presure plate. Re-assemble. You should buy one of those cheap (i.e. cost not quality) clutch alignment tools for re-aligning the clutch to make your job much easier.

If you are not comfortable with working on your own vehicle or don't have the tools then take it to someone who can. Recommend taking it to the professionals. These suggestions may or may not fit your specific problem(s), but without knowing more information these are merely suggestions.

SOURCE: Engine over revving at idle

looks like yor air valve is not working properly.check the water imput (could be clogged). also,did you removed your termostat? if so,put it back and solve the problem.