My 1996 chevy c1500 keeps blowing fuse #4 which is the fuse to my gauges (instrument cluster), when this fuse blows my gauges stop working, and lights in the dash stop working. Also if i do not replace the fuse for a day or so, everything starts to die down as if my alternator was not charging my truck. My radio goes out, slowly and my lights start to dim as well. also when this fuse blows, everything inside of the truck acts as if the truck was off. the dome light stays on for a fews seconds when i close my door then turns off. when i turn my headlights on the chime goes off, like if the truck was off and i left the lights on. (all this happens while the truck is running)
SOURCE: 1996 tahoe won't start
double check battery under load and verify it will hold for 10 seconds without dropping out under 10.5 volts , very possible there is a draw somewhere , check this by pulling fuses one by one with amp meter connected until you see maybe .3 volts .1 volt is normal
SOURCE: gauges blow fuses,brake and turn signal lights dont work
all my gauges quit working and my turnsignals checked all my fuses under the hood and dash whats my problem?
SOURCE: dim instrument cluster at night and no tail lights
its probly a bad alternator i noticed that even the smallest of electrical problems can be traced back to the alternator it might not be bad yet but it could go any time
SOURCE: 1998 chevy silverado 4x4
Hi, there may be several issues causing you problem. One is that you have a bad connection either on the battery or on the starter or even a bad battery cable. I would suggest removing the battery cables, If it's side post a 5/16 wrench or socket. If it's a top post then it's likely to be 7/16 or 10mm. Using a terminal brush
clean both the negative and positive terminals. But before reconnecting them, inspect the cables from the battery to their respective connection points. (The starter and the block) Make sure they do not have any broken insulation or dark discolorations in the insulation which represents excessive heat and a weak spot in the cable. Also check and clean the connecting points. Using a socket to remove the ground cable, once removed use a stiff wire brush to clean the surface of the block, then reconnect to the block. Then move to the starter, Using a 5/16 remove the solenoid wires and a 1/2 or 9/16 to remove the battery cable from the starter. Again use a wire brush to clean both surfaces and check the cable ends (eyelets) for a good connection. then reinstall the cables.
I am not sure how they tested your starter, however I have seen several auto parts stores use a diagnostic load machine that checks the starting system without the removal of the starter. If this was the test performed this is not an accurate test for a starter. The Starter will need to be removed, taking the positive cable loose from the battery, then remove the battery cable from the starter with a 1/2 or 9/16 generally socket and a 5/16 generally for the solenoid wire. Once the wires are removed you will have two 9/16(generally) bolts that can be removed with a socket and ratchet. Once the bolts are removed the starter will already be wanting to come out. Remove the starter and take it in to a reputable Auto parts store and ask them to perform a load test. This load test will give you the exact amp draw of the starter and solenoid and then they can tell you if it exceeds the manufactures spec.
Diagnose the door lock issues first,that you know is a problem
Why would you replace the alternator ?
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