4.0 6 cyl just bought car had bad water pump.replaced,drove it around,turned off wouldn't start because batt.also if cable was not on tight enough would that cause it tks for any helpery cable was loose where wire goes into post.tightened up drove around a few hours seemed fine,.went out last night to go to store it cut off just like turning switch off.started back up would go about a mile or so and cut off again.showing codeshigh speed control circuit and low speed circuit,also po320 could drive shaft sensor do that or do i need to replace another sensor.drive shaft had been removed to tow car
SOURCE: May be CV joint?? When making tight turns, wheel problem.
it sounds like you are in 4wd. try hitting gas when condition arises. find a dirt road to perform this. if your in 4wd front tires will dig the dirt up and truck will lunge forward.some jeeps have all wheel drive so on dry pavement tires will skip and jump on tight turns.
SOURCE: 96 jeep cherokee. Started acting up a month or so
With any loose wire situation, I'd have as much luck telling you which wire to look at as if you would to try and guess which persons shoe was untied in a dark movie theater. There are just too many of them, all of which are important.
One thing you can do to eliminate ground problems without actually finding a problem is to run an independent ground wire from the battery to the right fender, back to the firewall, around to the left fender, then to the front cross bar above the radiator. Use a minimum of 10 gauge wire for this, and do not use separate pieces. Strip away insulation at attachment points and make a loop, attaching with a short self tapping screw and washer. I also discard the factory negative battery cable and use a very heavy wire (I use welding cable) . Same applies to positive cable. Anywhere there is a factory ground lead I connect the new ground wire, cleaning the screw holes and the new ones I added with rough sandpaper, making sure there is no paint on the connection. I also run a separate feeder ground from the continuous ground, through the firewall to the cross brace below the dashboard. This may appear to be "overkill" but I never have to wonder if there is a sufficient ground anywhere. Use a squirt of undercoating on each new ground for rust protection.
Back to your problem...The oldest test is likely going to be the best one for you...Try wiggling the harness at different places and see if the engine stalls or stumbles.Since the problem began after impact, check that the impact sensor and auto shutdown relay are working, and that the wiring is not pinched or damaged. The impact sensor can trigger the airbag so be careful when working with it. Computer problems are not as common as you would think...You see many posts here dealing with them but no one posts about what they have that's working there are many more working perfectly than not...Could it be a computer problem ? Yes. Do I think it is? I doubt it. When running the grounding wire, there are usually at least two ground wires that come from the computer harness. make sure they are properly grounded as well.
As with any no-start problem, do the majority of your testing when it's not starting...when it's working, whatever is not working is not going to show up..I once spent two weeks carrying around test equipment to check an electrical problem on my own vehicle. Problem would always show up two or more miles from my shop and would disappear as soon as I got within a hundred yards of the shop or home. If I hadn't tested it where it died, I would never have found it till it had gotten so bad that I would have gotten stranded. Be safe and don't get out on a freeway, but do carry a volt/ohm meter with you to do quick side of the road or parking lot testing.Try to first isolate what is going down (spark or fuel), then get more specific with tests. Parts you have changed are suspect 'till they have been tested...Quality of parts today is horrible and cannot be depended upon .
It may take some time, but you will find it!
Good luck
SOURCE: Shuts off will driving, especially if I hit a bumpy road.
It could be the computer. Computers can diagose whats wrong in your car but it cannot diagnose itself. Get a jeep mechanic to check. The computer might of gotten water in it. In a 1996 jeep grand cherokee the computer is right over the right wheel when you looking straight from a seat. The wheel may have slung water or mud up into the computer.
SOURCE: 96 grande cherokee 6cyl. replaced o2 sensor and
Sounds more like an ignition misfire. Sometimes also, an exhaust leak in the pipe above the sensor can add enough air to cause the mixture in the pipe to ignite and cause the same problem. The first "weak point" in the exhaust is the muffler which is why it blows it up. Cutting out the cat will not solve this.
SOURCE: 1996 Jeep Grand cherokee 4.0 liter runs rough at times.
I Found that the outboard PCM cover screw was shorting out the circuit board.
Short story long: I have a 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 125,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didnt matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
At the time it was showing an ASD relay code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays. Same problem. I didnt have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and its all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. Im a trusting soul, but lets see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, We dont know what it could be, good luck with that. Now my wife knows why I dont go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
My turn. Being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, I grabbed a multi-meter, contact cleaner, and wiring diagrams. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, its showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I dont recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didnt even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldnt stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldnt start! That was the point when my wife asked, Hows it going? And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, what the ----? Thats when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on. DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. Yes! Aircraft mechanics love it when they can make things stop working. I cut the screws (1/4 long, factory screws are 1/2 long Torx head) with a pair of wire cutters, and shes been running great ever since.
Hello
The engine
and automatic transmission in this vehicles drive train
are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM
(Power Train Control Module). Whenever a problem like this or other
drive-ability related problems occurs the computer stores a record of
the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the
fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for
instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these
fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special
tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the
appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s)
DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED
THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT
MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM
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