Transaxle clutch wont release when hot stalls engine

Hello. It is probably the converter. This is the clutch in an automatic transmission. It's probably sticking and not releasing at low rpm.

Instructions

1. Remove the Old Clutch
   • 1Verify that your vehicle's clutch is the source of your problems and not the pedal-arm bushings, activating cables or the slave-master cylinder.
     
   • 2Unhook the positive battery cable, the clutch cable or hydraulic slave cylinder to get the transaxle ready for easy removal. Eliminate anything that may hinder your efforts, including exhaust pipes and the speedometer.
     
   • 3
   • Secure your car in a safe position before jacking up the front end.
     
   • 4Stabilize the engine with a jack below the oil pan. Remove the transaxle by undoing at least one engine mount.
     
   • 5Separate the engine from the transaxle by removing the bolts that surround the flywheel bell housing.
     
   • 6Push the transaxle away from the engine until the input shift clears the pressure plate.
     
   • 7Disengage the bolts surrounding the pressure plate and take it and the clutch disc out. Check to see if the flywheel's friction surface is scored, checked or has hot spots. Remove, machine and reinstall the flywheel, if needed.
     
   • 8Examine the pilot bearing (bushing) located at the flywheel's center to be sure the needle bearings are lubricated and that there's no galling. Also look for any oil leaking around the rear main engine seal.
     
   Replace the Clutch
   • 9Follow the instructions for replacing your car's clutch carefully to avoid having to remove the transaxle.
     
   • 10Check that the transaxle's input shaft isn't leaking; replace if needed.
     
   • 11Take out the flywheel and the old seal and install a new seal.
     
   Install a New Clutch
   • 12Clean the crankshaft flange before putting in the flywheel. With the flywheel on top of the flange, secure the bolts in a star formation to the specified torque for your vehicle.
     
   • 13Install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Prior to putting in the transaxle, attach the new release bearing to the release fork. The fork should move freely.
     
   • 14Hoist the transaxle into position and move it forward until the input shaft glides into the clutch disc's spindled hole. Do not apply force.
     
   • 15Reinstall any bolts or mounts that were removed to replace your car's clutch. Grab the transaxle, release the jack and lower your vehicle.
     
   • 16Consider replacing your car's clutch cable. If you don't replace the cable at least adjust it for the right amount of free-play.
     
   • 17Confirm that your clutch's self-adjusting action is performing correctly by depressing the slave cylinder's piston into its bore.
     
   • 18Drive your car to be sure your clutch is working properly.
     

Are there codes in the transmission computer? Likely the torque converter clutch is not disengaging or a holding member with the transmission could not be releasing. this could be caused by a faulty shift solenoid or a mechanical failure with the transmission. Check to ensure the transmission shift properly under all conditions. Also, stall test the torque converter, put it in gear hold the brakes firm and throttle the engine. Generally the torque converter will stall out around or above 2,000 rpm. If it stalls out much lower, check the torque converter clutch solenoid for proper operation.

Again, check the transmission computer for codes. You will need an advanced OBD1 scan tool which can communicate like a hikock scan tool ( ford factory for that era)

DESCRIPTION:
The torque converter clutch (TCC) inside the torque converter, also referred to as the "damper clutch" or "lockup clutch", functions to lock the input and output sections of the torque converter together to provide improved fuel economy.
If you are servicing a transaxle with either of the following conditions, follow the repair procedure shown below:
^ Torque converter clutch does not engage when driving at steady speed on the highway. ^ Engine stalls when coming to a stop or when shifting into Drive or Reverse

REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Check the ATF level when the engine is idling in "N" according to TSB 01-40-013. Adjust the ATF level as needed.



. Attach the Hi-Scan Pro and check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) in both the "ENGINE" and "AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE" menus. If the DTC shown are found, follow the repair procedure shown. If no DTC are found, go to Step 3.
3. Using the Hi-Scan Pro, select "HYUNDAI VEHICLE DIAGNOSIS", "AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE" and "CURRENT DATA" menus, then "OIL TEMPERATURE" or "FLUID TEMPERATURE". Confirm the oil temperature readout is correct as shown. If not, replace the oil temperature sensor.
4. Using the Hi-Scan Pro, select: ^ "HYUNDAI VEHICLE DIAGNOSIS" menu ^ "AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE" menu ^ "CURRENT DATA" menu ^ THROTTLE P. SENSOR, "TCC SOLENOID DUTY", "TCC SLIP" and "OIL TEMPERATURE" ^ F2 - "SCRN". This will isolate the top four data to allow a quicker refresh rate for the data.
Check the TCC data under the conditions shown in the table. If the TCC data indicate as shown, the torque converter and damper clutch are operating correctly. If not, go to Step 5.


5. If the TCC data does not indicate as shown or the engine stalls, follow the repair procedure shown.

6. If the engine stalls when shifting into Reverse or Drive, the oil cooler may be restricted. Disconnect the oil cooler hoses to the oil cooler in the radiator. Bypass the oil cooler as shown. It the condition: ^ Does not recur, replace the radiatorRecommend finding a certified Transmission mechanic if you are unable to complete these test using a scanner.

if it feels like your driving a standard transmission ,and "you came to a stop light without pushing clutch in"
that will be the torque convertor lock up,

sound like your have the bad distributor, when you have trouble starting remove the distributor and have the auto part check it.

could possibly be camshaft position sensor or crank shaft sensor have you had a diagnostic scan

replace the clutch ,its easy on this model last one i done took all of 20 mins to dismantle ,an hour and a half to go and get clutch including stop for coffee and 30 mins to re -assemble and dont forget to use copper ease grease on the spigot shaft

your trans has lectronic controls to operate the shifting of your trans. If there is a defect, a fault code will be stored in the computer, called a DTC. You need to have someone with a scan tool check for the fault code. It is likely a solenoid that is not working or stuck.

Get the codes first. Autozone can run the test for free on engines, maybe trans codes too. Call your local Autozone or big parts store and ask them.

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SECTION 307-01: Automatic Transaxle/Transmission 2001 Escape Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Transaxle Description The CD4E automatic transaxle is a four-speed, front wheel drive automatic transaxle with electronic controls for:

• Electronic pressure control (EPC) solenoid for shift quality.
• Shift scheduling.
• 3-2 shift timing.
• Coast braking.
• Torque converter clutch control.

The transaxle features a four element torque converter with a torque clutch and a geartrain that includes:

• Compound planetary gearset.
• Chain drive.
• Planetary gearset final drive.
• Pinion and side gear differential.

The hydraulic control system of the transaxle has five solenoids that control:

• Shift feel, through line pressure control.
• Shift scheduling, through shift valve positioning control.
• Modulated application of the torque converter clutch.
• Timing of 3-2 shifts.
• Engine braking during coast operation.

----------------------------
Solenoid Valve Body Assembly The solenoid valve body assembly contains the transmission fluid temperature sensor (TFT) sensor, as well as five PCM controlled output devices:

• Electronic pressure control (EPC) solenoid.
• Shift solenoid A (SSA).
• Shift solenoid B (SSB).
• 3-2 timing/coast clutch solenoid (3-2 T/CCS).
• Torque converter clutch (TCC) solenoid.

---------------------------------
You may need your PCM, Powertrain Control Module reflashed by a Ford Dealer.
Try disconnecting your battery for 1/2 hour and then reconnect and see what happens. It will run a little rough and shfit hard until it relearns your engine/trans characteristics.
Let us know results of tests and DTC codes if you get them.

I see. sounds like you need a new clutch. OK, here is a step by step guide to follow. it will help with the removal and installation of your new clutch.

Remove the Old Clutch Step1 Verify that your vehicle's clutch is the source of your problems and not the pedal-arm bushings, activating cables or the slave-master cylinder. Step2 Unhook the positive battery cable, the clutch cable or hydraulic slave cylinder to get the transaxle ready for easy removal. Eliminate anything that may hinder your efforts, including exhaust pipes and the speedometer. Step3 Secure your car in a safe position before jacking up the front end. Step4 Stabilize the engine with a jack below the oil pan. Remove the transaxle by undoing at least one engine mount. Step5 Separate the engine from the transaxle by removing the bolts that surround the flywheel bell housing. Step6 Push the transaxle away from the engine until the input shift clears the pressure plate. Step7 Disengage the bolts surrounding the pressure plate and take it and the clutch disc out. Check to see if the flywheel's friction surface is scored, checked or has hot spots. Remove, machine and reinstall the flywheel, if needed. Step8 Examine the pilot bearing (bushing) located at the flywheel's center to be sure the needle bearings are lubricated and that there's no galling. Also look for any oil leaking around the rear main engine seal. Replace the clutch Step1 Follow the instructions for replacing your car's clutch carefully to avoid having to remove the transaxle. Step2 Check that the transaxle's input shaft isn't leaking; replace if needed. Step3 Take out the flywheel and the old seal and install a new seal. Install a New Clutch Step1 Clean the crankshaft flange before putting in the flywheel. With the flywheel on top of the flange, secure the bolts in a star formation to the specified torque for your vehicle. Step2 Install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Prior to putting in the transaxle, attach the new release bearing to the release fork. The fork should move freely. Step3 Hoist the transaxle into position and move it forward until the input shaft glides into the clutch disc's spindled hole. Do not apply force. Step4 Reinstall any bolts or mounts that were removed to replace your car's clutch. Grab the transaxle, release the jack and lower your vehicle. Step5 Consider replacing your car's clutch cable. If you don't replace the cable at least adjust it for the right amount of free-play. Step6 Confirm that your clutch's self-adjusting action is performing correctly by depressing the slave cylinder's piston into its bore. Step7 Drive your car to be sure your clutch is working properly.


PLease rate and god bless:)