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Losing water while driving down the road. If I make numerous stops each time I stop and pressure builds a little water comes out the overflow.
History: 2 1/4 yrs ago, car went over a curb damaging the radiator. Radiator replaced ( so I was told, happened before I bought the car)
2 years ago- New head gasket, Heads milled, water pump replaced, thermostat replaced, New Timing Belt, Timing Gear, 1800.00 poorer
1 yr ago- warranty ran out, car starts overheating again. Replace thermostat, water pump, flush radiator. Off and On overheating problem.
6 months ago- Discover fans have a short in the wire at the back of the fan, cannot be fixed without replacing fans, Not done at this time due to funds. Fans wired to toggle switch and manually activated. Continued water loss/overheating.
Recently discovered losing water thru reservoir overflow when car is first shut off, can hear water moving ( gurgling behind the firewall on drivers side?) while driving, like it is moving from 1 side to the other. Everytime I stop I have to add water, sometimes only 1/2 gal sometimes more if I let the temp get up a little higher.
I hate this vehicle now as does my bank account. I need to solve this last thing, I cannot afford to go get another car and this one is not yet paid off.
hmm I had put the make and model at the beginning of the page. It is a 2007 PT Cruiser Touring Edition with 83,000 miles. I have bled the system everytime I have had to add water until it just got to where I had to add water everytime I drove it. I canleave the car running in the driveway after filling with water and it will run for hours without the temperature increasing. I live 9 miles from my work, I can fill the car before I leave, make 1 stop at sonic which is directly on the way without detours, turn the car off as soon as I stop, then drive directly to the shop without overheating however if I make a second stop I will strt overheating. I am printing the suggestions out. I am pretty handy with a wrench so I will try to do what I can myself. I dont have anyone else to work on it and I do not have the money to pour into anymore mechanics. What will I be looking for while the thermostat is pulled? Sometimes it is boiling over into the overflow and you can hear it loudly, this only happens if I allow the temp to get 1/2 way or more on the dial. Sometimes it is just bubbling out of the reservour onto the rear of the block.hmm I had put the make and model at the beginning of the page. It is a 2007 PT Cruiser Touring Edition with 83,000 miles. I have bled the system everytime I have had to add water until it just got to where I had to add water everytime I drove it. I canleave the car running in the driveway after filling with water and it will run for hours without the temperature increasing. I live 9 miles from my work, I can fill the car before I leave, make 1 stop at sonic which is directly on the way without detours, turn the car off as soon as I stop, then drive directly to the shop without overheating however if I make a second stop I will strt overheating. I am printing the suggestions out. I am pretty handy with a wrench so I will try to do what I can myself. I dont have anyone else to work on it and I do not have the money to pour into anymore mechanics. What will I be looking for while the thermostat is pulled? Sometimes it is boiling over into the overflow and you can hear it loudly, this only happens if I allow the temp to get 1/2 way or more on the dial. Sometimes it is just bubbling out of the reservour onto the rear of the block.
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My first question is make model and year. Second, are you saying the engine is boiling over into the overflow tank and onto the ground ? Is the tank about half full when the engine is cold ? Have you run the engine with the thermostat removed to test ? Usually when you can hear the coolant moving around, you have air in the system and it is not full of liquid coolant.
Are you really adding water or coolant ? Because straight water will boil before coolant. If you run the engine without the thermostat and it still runs hot, the engine is producing too much heat on its own. Its possible the head or block is still damaged from when it overheated the first time 2 yrs ago.Are you really adding water or coolant ? Because straight water will boil before coolant. If you run the engine without the thermostat and it still runs hot, the engine is producing too much heat on its own. Its possible the head or block is still damaged from when it overheated the first time 2 yrs ago.
Its also possible something else is causing the extra heat, such as an exhaust restriction or problem with brakes or transmission.Its also possible something else is causing the extra heat, such as an exhaust restriction or problem with brakes or transmission.
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Dirt and debris can get lodged in the radiator air flow paths. This can block the radiator and cause your engine to overheat and damage the engine
Make sure the radiator and the overflow bottle are filled to the proper levels.
Bleed air from the coolant system:This is best done by running the engine with the radiator cap off until you see when the air bubbles stop coming up.
Check the radiator fans: The easiest way is to turn on the cars air conditioner and turn up the A/C fans. Both radiator fans should come on when the A/C starts
Make a pressure test by using a pressure testing tool (available at most auto parts stores). Use the pressure shown on your radiator cap. Most cars are 16 PSI or less, so don't exceed that pressure. Replace the radiator cap if it doesn't hold the pressure.
While you have it at the radiator repair shop, have them flow test the radiator. They should have information on the flow of a new radiator and then you can compare the two. They should be able to tell you if your flow rate is high enough to do the job.
have u bled the cooling system ?warm the car and cut the car off right before the fans come on ,let sit for 30-35 minutes,see if the coolant drops in res. if so repeat process untill coolant stops droping ,then drive car regularly if overheating stops ,but monitor it because it will drop somemore/there has been reports of new and rebuilt water pumps nt having correct propelar mounted on them/ backwards etc. if this helps let me know [email protected]
There is no machine for this,however a VERY skilled auto electric shop might be able to help.They really have to have a Gift with car wiring to fix your problem,it can be FIXED,find the right shop in your area.I will try and think this through to help you,this is what I used to do,It's not a book problem it is experience that will fix your car. I do have a question? How does your car run without the AC on?
try this,wearing rubber gloves(cos its hot)undo the topmost hot hose clip and expell any air trapped.also use a hotwire to check
electric fan(s) if fitted.if they run it aint them.do they operate when idling and hot,if not then its the sensor.or if you have a viscous fan is that working.....when hot you will feel a resistance to turning by hand when the engine is stopped..another telltail that the thermostat is gone is,does the guage go down when you turn the fan on full heat for the interior??...cant think of anything else.....
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Well, almost everything.
2 things you may not be able to check.
1) Water that is leaking inside the motor itself and is blowing out the tailpipe only when the car is running.\
You cannot see it, feel it, nor hear it, but it is exhausting all the same. A pinhole in a cylinder head, a head gasket, or the engine block can cause this.
I have had to junk 2 cars in the last 6 years for this every reason.
2) A leak that only happens when you are driving down the road.
If you had a selection of cameras, you could position them to the dark recesses of the under the hood and see what water could be leaking out only while you are running down the road.
It can stop the minute you stop the car.
This problem is often heater hoses or by-pass hoses between the engine and the firewall.
See if someone has a "hand pump-up radiator pressure tester" in your area, and try that on your car.
God bless your efforts.
Oil pressure has noting to do with the Cooling system with the exception Oil Helps to keep the engine temp even. Water with Antifreeze is the main fluid for cooling. Check the pressure cap and valve.
If the engine was stopped or you shut it down immediately then the possibility of damage would be remote as the piston would not be continuing to move which is where most damage occurs.. If the radiator failed a pressure test then the problem is that the radiator pressure was not high enough to prevent the boil. I will explain . Water boils at 100degrees c at 14psi (air pressure). When under pressure the boiling point goes up to well above the 100 degrees . If you have a coolant system leak the pressure will be at air pressure and when the engine is stopped the hot parts have not water circulation so the temperature goes well over the 100 degrees and so it blows off . 2 problems are present that you have to correct. Find the leak and have it fixed and secondly check that the cooling fans are working correctly. Caps come in varied pressure ratings for the radiator construction so check that the cap reading is suitable for you vehicle
You stated Coolant disappearing then I add coolant and stops overheating? If no puddles under car, check oil dipstick and see if it has coolant mixed witht the oil for a gasket problem. If no coolant you may have a bad radiator cap and losing the coolant as you drive. The pressure and pump will force it out as you are driving to where you are not aware of it.
Your coolant level is probably low. When you are driving, the water pump turns faster and pumps the coolant into your heater core. When you slow down or stop, the pump doesn't turn as fast and can't get the coolant pumped into the heater core. Eventually if you don't fill it, you won't get heat at all, and soon after your engine will overheat.
You need to check your coolant level when the engine is COLD, or you take the risk of burning yourself. Hot coolant is under pressure, and will cause severe burns if you open the radiator cap when the engine is hot.
More than likely there is a leak that needs to be addressed. Take the vehicle to a certified repair shop and they can perform a pressure test (at little to no cost) to help you determine where you're losing coolant.
Make sure the electric fans are operating as they should.
Check for a blocked radiator core,
Check water pump drive OK,
Get a radiator shop to do 'coolant gas check' for a blown head gasket (looks for combustion gas bubbles in the water system).
MY 2002 RAINIER DOES THE SAME THING I HAVE BEEN TOLD IT IS THE THROTTLE BODY. I NEED TO CLEAN IT OR REPLACE IT. I HAVE THE 4.2 AND YOU CAN GET ONE FOR $200 PLUS SHIPPING. THE THROTTLE BODY STARVES THE CAR FOR AIR CAUSING THE IDLE, AND SHUT DOWN PROBLEMS. I AM GOING TO TRY IT THIS WEEKEND.
hmm I had put the make and model at the beginning of the page. It is a 2007 PT Cruiser Touring Edition with 83,000 miles. I have bled the system everytime I have had to add water until it just got to where I had to add water everytime I drove it. I canleave the car running in the driveway after filling with water and it will run for hours without the temperature increasing. I live 9 miles from my work, I can fill the car before I leave, make 1 stop at sonic which is directly on the way without detours, turn the car off as soon as I stop, then drive directly to the shop without overheating however if I make a second stop I will strt overheating. I am printing the suggestions out. I am pretty handy with a wrench so I will try to do what I can myself. I dont have anyone else to work on it and I do not have the money to pour into anymore mechanics. What will I be looking for while the thermostat is pulled? Sometimes it is boiling over into the overflow and you can hear it loudly, this only happens if I allow the temp to get 1/2 way or more on the dial. Sometimes it is just bubbling out of the reservour onto the rear of the block.
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