Oh lord, are you in for some work. First of all you will need a transmission jack, a must and a couple of strong guys if you don't have a lift. First things first. Disconnect neg. bat. cable. Raise up on jack stands. Disconnect drive shafts and tape bearings caps on drive shafts. Remove Starter. Disconnect wiring harness plugs from transmission and transfer case. The wiring harness connection on the shift linkage does not remove. There are 2 connectors and are glued at factory. Remove whole shift linkage unit from side of trans. Remove exhaust. Remove dust cover. Mark spot on flywheel and tourque converter, then remove bolts from flywheel. Support trans. with jack. Remove transfer case bolts from trans. Remove mount nuts from transfer case bolts. Remove bell housing bolts from motor to trans. Remove bolts from crossover support for transfer case mount from the main frame. Raise up transmission and remove crossover support. One guy now supports transfer case and other works transfer case loose. The transfer has to be jockeyed around until it drops out. It will not come straight out or down because of the tor. bar support frame. It has to be wiggled out and down. Guy supporting transfer case gets trans fluid bath and this is all muscle work. With transfer case out, put another jack under motor for support or risk breaking motor mounts and other things. Slide transmission back and lower down and its free, It is a very dirty, oily, nasty hard job. I just went through it. I wouldn't do it again. If you can afford it, take it to a pro. Well worth it. Remember once started, your pretty much commited. Reverse the whole thing to install. Good Luck
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Look for corroded connector at the distributor, if the connections look good replace the ignition module...I usually change the module anyway. If replacing the module and making sure that the connector is clean you need to check the ground from the module to the ECU and the 5v signal wire from the ECU to the module. if everything else checks out and you still have code 42 then ECU night need replacing.
Will it physically fit? yes. Will it be a direct replacement any everything hook right up and plug right in? If we are talking about an automatic then no. 1994's wiring was completely different than the 1997. Can it be made to work? possible, but I believe it would be more trouble trying to make it work than if the correct transmission were located and installed. If it is a cost issue where he has a good trans out of a 1994 he might see if a salvage yard will do some partial trading for the correct trans.
Speed sensor is most likely goin or gone out. It is located on the drivers side of the transmission tailshaft. Speed information runs through the cruise control and the computer to the speedometer.
Check fluid level first if it's full then call the people that rebuilt the transmission to see if it's still under warranty. it is running in limp in mode. so there is some type of problem and it will need to be pressure tested. Do not drive it unless they tell you to do so or it may void any warranty. Hope this helps.
I'm pretty sure GM built your truck with the diesel engine as an option so there is a way to make this work. The trans shifts are based on a combination of ground speed and engine RPM so as long as the computer is able to get these signals your trans should work. I put an early 90's overdrive in a mid 80's truck and didn't plug the wiring in because the trans used a 4 wire plugin and my truck only had a 3 wire. It worked fine, even overdrive.
A little jury rigging and ingenuity should find a way to attach your current kickdown cable to the accellerator on the diesel pump. GM probably has a bracket to make it fit. Check with the parts guys at the counter. Hope this helps.
No, its a Auto-Anti-Theft Unit, your best bet would be to buy a $100 kit from auto zone. The Stick unit is built that way because if you start it and walk away, I can use a blank key to unlock the ignition and drive off.
×