216k on my echo. i am getting a misfiring code on cilinder 1. they did all kind of diagnostics and they are pretty sure it's the fuel injector (the spark plugs were recently changed and it wasn't the coil)... they put in some injector fluid cleaner and told me if it doesn't get any better they will open up the engine and take a look at the injector. the symptoms are that the car shakes and sputters when warm (usually starts when i am iddle at a light or something). it's intermittent and has gotten progressively worse over a period of approximately 6 months. the thing is they can't guarantee it is the injector... could be deeper in the engine. has anyone had a similar issue? not sure if it's worth trying to fix... thanks!
That shop does not know how to test your cars problems
Injector Cleaner is not a fix for dirty or worn injectors
If they don't use an oscilloscope in their testing, they are
living 25 years in the past
Why did they not find the problems,they said they did lots of
testing,apparently stopped somewhere & gave up or don't
have the ability to do what is necessary
Could very well be a mechanical issue
A cylinder leak down test,mechanical or using a transducer
& scope, as well as scope the injectors & cylinder contribution
test, will tell you most likely whats wrong.
Try another shop & research their capabilty first
Thank you very much Peter, I googled "oscilloscope" and they most definitely didn't use one of those... i watched everything they did.
Rare anyone is there & watches,good job that is what you should do if you have the time & chance.
to be honest the garage is owned by a close friend so there was no issue there. does the fact that my issue usually starts when i am idle or starting the car not long after having turned it off give you any clues as to what it could be? when i press the gas it's it's sputtering it hesitates and eventually it kind of goes away after about 5-10mins and often returns. problem never occurs during first 10 mins when car is cold. anyway, i don't want to take too much of your time, you've already been very helpful. if you don't have time to reply, it's alright!
when the car is idle and acting ok, if you listen closely, there is a little variation in the engine humming. also, the computer had indicated very minor misfires on all cylinders at one point but the issue by far was the 1st cylinder. sorry for all the detail.
Unless you have mechanical internal valve issues that come & go someone should be able to do the proper testing & resolve They need to drive it with you & take the scan tool on road test to collect data,not codes & play it back at the shop. There is a tool you can put into the diagnostic connector & collect data & they can look at it days later If they never drove the car as you do to experience the issue they got of to a wrong starting place
If it doesn't happen when cold it is running on the computer in open loop & when warm on closed loop & the injectors are using the oxygen sensors for fuel control
Something as simple as a bad coolant temp sensor could be a big deal if you have one of them
excellent. thanks again for your time!
Use an Evap Smoke Machine on the entire car,intake manifold as well as evap system to check for vacuum leaks,exhaust as well,these shops need to use all the tools or toys as they in the box
i asked them about the vacuum but i believe they told me the car's issues would be more constant... but i understand what you're saying... every box has to checked off before they go ahead and open up the engine.
No reason to open the engine as you say. Your referring to removing the head if you had valve issues, Injectors are just pulled out once the fuel rail is loosened
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SOURCE: check engine light is on the code was po300
I respectfully disagree.
A P-0300 will NOT be set in a Corolla by a dirty fuel filter.
Replacing the fuel filter could be a very costly operation, as I have observed that the fuel line threads that connect to the fuel filter easuily get damaged when removing the fuel filter.
In short, don't replace the filter until you are SURE that it is the culpit.
In this case, the fuel filter is NOT the culprit..
Save your money; and your time.
Additionally, premium fuel does not clean fuel injectors. That expense would be a waste of money. The engine will actually run WORSE on premium fuel; the engine is NOT designed to run on premium. 87 or 89 (better choice/89) is the grade to use.
If you really want to track down the P-0300 code, which is a multiple/random cylinder misfire, I would look at the quality of the fuel in the car; ie water in the gas. Second, I would remove the plugs and examine them closely. A worn center electrode will also set the P-0300 code, as will bad/weak plug wires (over 5 years old).
Please feel free to contact me back if you need further assistance. Thanks for choosing FixYa for assistance.
SOURCE: Check engine light on
There are three kinds of gasoline engine misfire scenarios, first there is the "under load" misfire and there is the "at engine idle" misfire, and finally there is misfire continuously. All engine misfires exist because one of three things has occurred. First, a cylinder has lost compression, a cylinder needs a certain amount of compression to operate correctly. Second, the ignition system has failed or is failing intermittently, spark is needed at the time of compression to ignite the fuel air mixture. Third, the fuel air mixture is incorrect, proper mixture is needed for the ignition system to ignite fuel properly. If any of these conditions occur in the engine, the engine will misfire.
1. Low or no compression can be caused by
a. burned or leaking intake or exhaust valves
b. worn or broken piston or piston rings
c. worn out camshaft
d. wrong weight motor oil was installed holding the cam followers from adjusting
e. broken valve spring
f. failed head gasket.
2. Ignition system has failed or is failing
a. spark plug has fouled or is worn out
b. ignition coil
has failed
c. spark plug wires have shorted
e. engine control module coil driver has failed
3. Fuel/Air Mixture is incorrect
a. vacuum leak at the intake manifold
b. fuel injector has failed
c. EGR valve is stuck open
d. mass air flow sensor has failed
e. oxygen sensor has failed
f. air intake boot is cracked
common problems:
1. fuel injector has failed or is failing
2. spark plug wire has shorted
3. spark plug is worn out or is cracked
4. ignition coil has failed is failing
Testing a coil on the car is pretty easy. No special tools are required. Just remember to be careful, the amount of electricity generated by your ignition system can be dangerous.
If your coil is already off the car, or if you would like a more specific data-driven test, you can bench test your coil. To set up the test, remove one spark plug wire from its plug, then remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket. Next put the spark plug back into the spark plug wire. Be careful not to let anything drop into the empty spark plug hole -- very bad.
SOURCE: Toyota Corolla 98 Cylinder #1 and #4 misfire
I have power at the coils , have good compression , have you ever seen a crank pickup cause this problem?
SOURCE: 2000 toyota 4runner pulling a random misfire in
try a new crankshaft sensor not hard to change 2 bolts and a wire
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oh and they checked the pressure in the cylinder and it was fine. they checked that the signal was properly being relayed from the car computer to the injector and that seemed fine.
We can't guess here until you have lots to tell a professional & they won't appeaciate any help
just an update... the problem was the injector. i luckily found an honest mechanic who found me some used injectors and replaced them all for a little over 100 bucks. car runs fine now!
same problem here. took out # 1 injector. had water around it. cleaned and dried. runs good now. all you need is a 10mm socket, short extension and ratchet.
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