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I just took apart a rearend with a floating axel to inspect brake pads that have 2,000 mile of use, the axel ceal was leakng and one set of pads have grease on them, some people say the pads are useless now others say the grease will wear off, my books do not mention the subject. 1976 gmc sierra
the reason i'm working on these breaks are they kept locking up, discovered the leaky ceal after removing the drum, pads accually seeam oil free but then maybe not, gueess i tell my ister she needs new break padsthe reason i'm working on these breaks are they kept locking up, discovered the leaky ceal after removing the drum, pads accually seeam oil free but then maybe not, gueess i tell my ister she needs new break pads
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Hi there. Normally, once you get gear oil on the pads they are toast. The gear oil soaks into them and you can't get rid of it. You will have problems with your brakes locking up if you reuse the contaminated pads. Hope this helps.
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with unknown year and model i would think the jimmy has a straight rearend with either drum or disk brakes ....they could be dragging i would check the pad surface and also check the rotor , if they are disk brakes the caliper could be sticking the calipers have a pin they slide on , after many miles-heat-corrosion the pins can develope problems causing the brakes to stick if disks brake are a feature - solution is to take caliper off and grease the pins with high temp grease or you can use antilock thread seal - also could be something going bad in the transmission causing this problem like the torque converter or clutches - also could be the rear end , i would take it to a reputable mechanic to take a look at it
Cv axel or motor mount The CV axel boots should be good with no tears and with thr trie off the ground and the car in park there shlud be no persectable plat between the axel shaft and the tire when rotating the trie by hand untill the transmistion park or in gear stops it. It's OK for the trans to turn a little before the trans stops it but not the axel hold the inner axel CV and turn the tire again and the inner joint should turn with the tire with no play except the trans slack. If this is good check the other axel the same way if one has more than the other just replace the one with more play anf see if you can get away with just one! The replacement axels are less than $100 new and half that for rebuilt after you turn in the core ( old one ). Their strange as they wear out and some last very long and others a shorter period. Many cars go to the junkyard with the axels in them with lots of miles and their the ones that came with the car.
YES Any Brake Material That Has Had Any Oil Contacted Should Be Replaced , The Heat Generated By Brake friction Basicly Cookes Shoes Or Pads into A Different Chemical Makeup, For lack of Better Discription. NEVER Use Oil / Fluid Contaminated Pads Or Shoes
remove the the diff unit and refit into your casing ,,,easy job,Preload on pinion bearings and set crownwheel backlash to a very small wiggle woggle.handful of LM grease in unit before you refit cover then use ep90 gear oil .job done shouldnt take more than a morning to do.
I replaced the rotors and pads on my right hand drive Blazer and had the same problem ,dont worry in a couple of days normal running the pressure goes away and you dont get the heat problem. Its just the new pads bedding in.
the reason i'm working on these breaks are they kept locking up, discovered the leaky ceal after removing the drum, pads accually seeam oil free but then maybe not, gueess i tell my ister she needs new break pads
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