No start, fuel pressure ok, spark at plugs

no car symptoms told at all just a HUNT, (sad)
guess engine is dead, me. why must I guess it?
USA cars years ago (EPA rule) moved it (main media filter) to the tank.
by law. (evap3 laws did that)
how many filters, well lots really.
2 in the tank, 1 is sock filter +1 main filter

and each injector has a 10micron filter inside.
sorry that be all facts.

well doing the tests wrong causes that, confusion.
we test fuel pressure at the FAIL not dribble tests.
EFI needs spec pressure and flow. or fails.
and you are cart before horse. (ASE logic) all
the engine must be good first. if dead fuel and spark are useless.
1,2,3, engine, spark , fuel , in that order are tested
here are the ordered tests:
the PCM cuts fuel if spark is detected dead or its precursors, CMP and CKP both,
it cuts fuel for IMMO fails(KEY) or SRS bags or its sensors tripped. scan it.
most of all this is tools ,meters and kills, all ASE methods

1. fuses all good. cab and engine bay all fuse boxes.!
2. IMMO lamp in cluster not unhappy glow, try both keys car came with new 1 at a time.
3. scan the PCM cranking any dead engine release key see P03xx DTC codes roll out to the tools screen. bingo,.
4. next is engine compression good. 150psi up.
5. now test all spark plugs for dead spark
6. all 6 COP coils have spark and new spark plugs and those nasty BOOTS on the replaced.!!!!
7. ok all good so for , last is fuel. cant burn fuel on any dead engine or dead spark so FUEL IS NO.
8. We test fuel pressure to spec at the fuel rail.
9. yes if gas is old or was,bad gas gunks all this up. all filters, all injectors.
10. the pump has the FPR regulator inside too.
11. W test for cranking pressure first not the prime pulse. pressure, the BOSCH pump is silent so no sound is normal, we only do pressure test. at the real and cranking, if engine runs (not told) we test next idle pressure, and WOT.
12. the service manual covers this, PSI and injector leak down tests. and injector balance tests and and more RTM? if pressure is low (out of spec. ) we check voltage at the pump cranking, 11vdc is par.
13. if dead voltage we check pump relay.

do not pull the TANK
TEST PRESSURE CRANKING AT STEP 8.
30PSI AND MORE IS COMMON. PER MANUAL



HARK:
INCLUDES FUEL PUMP, FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR, SENDING UNIT, FLOAT, FUEL RESERVOIR AND FUEL STRAINER FILTER.
EPA LAW MANDATE. (FOR FUME REDUCTIONS)

expensive guessing there ,wow !

why not find out why ,by using diagnosis, its far cheaper, i promise.
engine stalls:
A: can you save the stall>? with a fast right foot action????
yes, then its not 12vdc power lost to EFI system.
no, then it must be lost spark or lost fueling or flooding.
did you do the full 60k mile tune up yet? and the 90k? ever interval?
your mech. can't find this? is that what you are asking.???

stalls list, near impossible to answer not knowing, test A: above !
but here goes.
1: lost 12vdc power, EFI dies. engine dies. volt meter saves day.
2: lost spark, (cant save stall, test A, for this or lost 12vdc)
3: lost fuel pressure , stall can be proven with using test fuel at stall point. (spray fuel into intake) below 30PSI fuel, on all cars is bad.
4; flooding, from too much fuel pressure, say over 60psi, causes flooding, leaking injectors, so an injector leak down and balance test shown in the FSM.
See soaking wet spark plug tips (free easy check)??? flooding.
fast foot easy prevent stall, ? yes, ISC stuck closed. clean it
harder fast foot save is EGR stuck open. clean it.
impossible fast foot save is , #1,2,3 above.

all above can be tested easy and with cheap tools.
the engine runs by order. "classic list"
do the tune up.
1: 12vdc to EFI ,key on, all the time.
2: engine compression at spec, or 150psi. 90k timing belt ignored?
3: good spark and timed right. (strobe light test)
4: good fueling (not lost , or flooding)
5: EGR not stuck open, ISC not stuck closed.

this gets most stalls.
if fuel pressure is at bad shunt levels, +60psi , due to the fuelpressue
regulators stuck closed. (in side tank it is so is fuel filter.)
the engine will flood , i check fuel pressure. way before any ECU swaps. infact i check all ECU inputs first. and fuel pressure must be in spec range too.
good luck.

no starts.
cranks perfectly, full cranking speed, not 1 rpm but nearer 300.

ever do the 60k tuneup in the book.?
assuming the service was done and all cyl. are over 150PSI (WOT)
then we check spark first, not fuel..
The ECU brain cuts fuel (by design) any time spark is gone.
here is the proper flow:
1: throw, wild guess?, compression is good,. cam belt slip??????
is cam shaft turning,? look down oil fill hole. is it?
2: i check spark it's bad. (fix spark)
2a: i check spark its good', on all 4 cylinders not just 1.
3: spark was good. cam spins, pray compression is ok....
4: i connect scan tool, i crank for 5 seconds and see RPM rise ,good
i see ECT at say 50f (garage temp) and might see DTCs get thrown as i crank? , i see P0340 or p0355 ( one is dead CKP and other is CMP)
in my case no DTC thrown cranking , and i have spark and ECU
communicates. (key point) we alway s do that ,the tool is $9 (ask)

5: i then look at spark tips, they are:
1: soaking wet, its flooded, (spark was good but they are 10 year old.
2: dry, no fuel all spark tips day.
your engine has 4 cylinders, and all four most not flood or run dry.
i can listen to any cold start and hear gross misfire. but.....
if they are bone dry, i check voltage to the fuel pump.
it must be 12vdc cranking , 1/2 the cars you must crank. to get the pump to run ,(ECU hard logic!)
say I have 12vdc cranking
i check he fuel pressure, its not 30psi, its 5 psi (bad)
i rap the side of the fuel pressure regulator and it now is 30psi.
car starts. the reg was stuck wide open(its bad)
ok, still no start. or good pressure. Good is 30.
let say it was 60psi, i find i forgot to replace my dirty and packed up fuel filter
at the 60k mile service point. ( did i save $10 ? , no)
pretend filter is good..... pressure way low.... (examples)
so i read my FSM and it shows this shunt test, i then block (pinch)
the Fuel return line at the Fuel press. regulator.
i see 60psi, the pump is good. (do only for 5seconds ) (2 man test)
i see 10psi, the pump is bad ( of i have 12v at pump cranking,.....)
all this are pump tests there are 6 tests. not counting the injector balance test.

this is my order you can do it backwards, but will most the time have to start over, and cuss a $200 pump change , in vain.
here is the scotty way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp


Example 2.
wont start, spark is good, tuneup done. sparks all 4 are wet
this is called flooding, the operators guide, says.
crank with the throttle open (WOT) car starts, it was flooded.
can happen in N.Canana (especially summer fuel in tank)
now car runs find and fresh fuel , 10 x better.
or no?
if no , post car keeps flooding, we can work that too.
is fuel pressure at 60psi, bingo, ask.






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since it sat the fuel has gone "stale" and the gas tank has collected condensation. treat gas tank with a can of heat (fuel additive) modern fuel injected vehicles are very finiky about fuel pressure, just getting the fuel to the motor is not enough, it needs to be within a certian operational threshold. you may need to purchase a service manual (around 15 bucks at any parts store) to reference the specs, test the pressure with a test gauge at the service port at or near fuel rails. in most cases it needs around 60psi give or take but every application varies. do not test you spark plugs by remove the plug and ground it out. this works on older cars but will damage your coil packs. a simple easy way to test got spark is to hook up a timing light to each wire and check for a signal, if you get a signal then current is passing through the wire. you can also purchase a meter for testing current. if everything checks out (you have good fuel pressure and spark) then try using a small amount of starting fluid. dont jsut spray into the air box, remove air duct from throttle body, open throttle butterflies and spray into intake, this may be enough to get it fired up and running. also if you spray starting fluid into your motor and it trys to run or runs for a second then stalls then fuel delivery is the issue for sure, hope this helps

Change the crank position sensor

the rule is checking for spark at the spark plugs, if you have spark then check for fuel pressure at the test port on the fuel rail.
since you smell gas, you need to check to see if there is any fuel leak.
if you don't have spark but you have fuel pressure then it's more likely the ignition module.
if you have spark but don't have gas then check the inertia switch and fuel pump. assuming that you already check your fuses.

Im guessing the vehicle wont start? If so you shouldnt rule out fuel just because your getting fuel to the shrader valve, these vehicle require a certain amount of fuel pressure to run, im guessing around 60psi, so i would check fuel pressure, if ok keep in mind that these vehicles also had a problem with early failure on the fuel injectors, GM sells a new design injector set up for them.

check for spark and have fuel pressure tested if below 60psi will not run most likely fuel pump!!

is there spark and fuel pressure?.....disconnect one spark plug and put a spark tester to verify.,if there is spark,then remove the air intake hose from the throttle body and spray fuel into the throttle body,if the engine starts,then dies,you have a fuel delivery problem.if you have hit something,check the wiring to the fuel pump,which is in the fuel tank.if you have 200000km,chances are the fuel pump is no good.sometimes banging on the tank will get it to start up again.you can also disconnect the inlet to the fuel filter using what is called a line wrench .if fuel sprays out,there is pressure there.wear glasses,fuel is under quite a bit of pressure.

if you believe some one put water or bad gas in your tank, then you will have to drain the tank. however, to know if you have water in your gas, first disconnect fuel return line or the line that goes in to the fuel pressure regulator put some fuel in a clear glass and let it sit for 15min.if you see white cloud at the bottom of the glass or water. drain the tank. if not check for spark by removing one spark plug wire and spark plug. place the spark plug in the spark plug wire boot and touch it on the metal part of the car. do not touch the spark plug itself only the booth with the plug in the boot. have some one crank the car over. if you see spark, the spark part is ok. but if no spark, check the coil with a volt meter it should be 3 to 8 ohm if not replace the coil. if ok, check for fuel by removing one spark plug or two and see if they are wet,if wet pump is ok. if not check the fuel pump relay and fuse. if fuse is blown replace. check relay with a volt meter. resistance of the relay should be between 40 to 80 ohm. not mega ohm,if mega ohm, replace. if not , listen to the fuel pump while some one is cranking the car. if you donot hear the pump, disconnect the pump electrical connector and applive 12 volt and ground to the pump by using a jumper or any wire and listen for pump sound. if not replace the pump. if there is sound coming from the pump, it is ok. check the fuel pressure regulator with a fuel pressure gauge or simply disconnect the vaccum from the regulator and try starting the car. if fuel pump is ok and spark is ok. then it maybe the computer or the crank position signal. also check the fuel filter it may be clog.