Replaced ignition modual, cap & rotor crank shaft position sensor still will run for 30 minutes or so, then bam, it's like I shut off the key. Then it won't start. Help.. Thanks
Have you checked into the fuel throttle sensor (throttlebody)?? im haaving issues right now as well with my 2004 explorer
SOURCE: 1997 ford crown victoria starting problems
Sounds like you're on the right track. A bad TPS and ISC motor sensor
will cause the problems you're experiencing. Your ECM relies on the
readings it gets from the TPS to be sure there is enough air getting to
the engine. If the ECM gets a bad reading and thinks not enough air is
getting to the engine, it will cut the fuel supply, hence causing your
engine to die. Your ISC relies on the reading from the TPS as well.
It detects from the ECM if the throttle plate is closed or not. If
it thinks the throttle plate is fully closed, it will start allowing
air to enter the engine and bypass the throttle plate. If your ECM
starts seeing some unmeasured air coming from ISC and detects the
throttle plate is open (which it may not be due to a bad TPS reading),
the ECM will again cut the fuel supply to avoid the risk of detonation.
So, replace your TPS first and see if that cures your problem. Also,
check the resistence readings of your ISC to be sure that is within
spec. If your problem still occurs, check your Intake Air Temperature
(IAT) sensor in your air filter housing. Be sure your spark plugs,
plug wires, and distributor are all in good shape as well. Replace
your fuel filter if you haven't done so in the past 2-3 years.
Good luck!
SOURCE: 1995 ford probe gt 2.5l V6, was running at 45 mph,
OK, and now it looks like coachjoehutc is thinking the same as me. When I look up your car, it takes me to the Mazda Millenia engine--does that sound right? It only shows 2 cam sprockets, but maybe there's a gear in the head to turn the other cam? Anyway, I'm pasting a picture of the marks. There's a little tang coming off the head that marks the timing. Now unfortunately it appears the timing covers are the one-piece type that stretch all the way down (I was hoping there would be a section on the top you could remove to see the gears). I hate for you to have to take the whole front off and find out I'm wrong, so maybe you can just remove the upper cover screws and, if the cover is plastic, it may let you bend it out far enough to see those marks on the gears (????). If so, then rotate the engine to TDC for #1 (there is an ignition timing tab to use for that around the one o'clock position). Look for the marks on the gears--if I'm right, they will only be off the tangs by a tooth (any more and the engine wouldn't run). If you don't see the dots on the gears, you're on the exhaust stroke and need to turn the engine another 360. Is this all making sense? Let me know if you have questions.
If you want to see the instructions to take off the whole covers, I can send them, or maybe you can access them at http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c152802610a5
SOURCE: 2006 f250 diesel....crank and crank
The first thought that comes to mind is a high pressure oil leak. The
injectors have a snap ring on top that sometimes becomes detached and
it will create these symptoms.
When you depress the brake it
sends a signal to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and the PCM increases the idle because it
predicts you are about to shift into gear. If the truck has a high
pressure leak inside the engine it will have a hard time building
pressure initially and once the oil warms and thins out the High
Pressure Oil Pump cannot hold the pressure and the oil leaks faster
because it is thinner.
You may have a leak around the pump area
which is under the turbo also. The IPR which is the regulator that
controls the oil pressure may also be bad. It is directly under the
turbo as well. The IPR is located under the turbo on the High Pressure Oil Pump cover.
You stated the seals were leaking on the IPR itself? If the orings are
damaged or if the screen in the end of it is collapsed or even punched
through with a small hole it will need replaced. Screen damage is
usually a sign of debris entering it from either dirt from a previous
repair or something is coming apart inside.
Make certain you have clean oil and fuel filters.
Yor may want to check fuel pressure as well. It should be somewhere
around 55psi on acceleration.
Additionally, I suggest check for voltage at the connector on the fuel pump. The pump is
mounted in the filter housing on the frame and the connector is at the
front of it. The pink and black wire should have 12 volts with the key
on for about 30 seconds. If the pump has voltage but is not running,
then your pump has failed. If there is no voltage then check fuse 2.40
in the central junction box. This is the fuse that feeds the inertia
switch through the fuel pump relay. I have included a fuse box layout
and a wiring diagram (click over images for zoom)...
Additionally, will need to scanned the PCM to know if some fault code is stored there.
Keep us updated.
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