Starter Trouble Won't turn over, Batt cables get REAL hot while trying. New Battery installed, new Starter installed. When attempting to start - just: "click", When I keep trying again repeatedly, ("click", "click", "click", "click", "click", "click") she will seem to catch once and turn the engine just a little and stop. On the "click" that connects, the tachometer wakes up. The rest of the time, the tach is unresponsive. 86K miles, no collisions

Your starter is probably intermittent remove starter and get a bench test done for free at autozone

wiring to the starter; large cable coming from the battery to the
large post on the starter is direct current, hot at all times. there are two small wires that connect to the solenoid, one comes from the ignition.
Look for loose connection especially ground. If you jumper the connection on the solenoid to the large connection on the battery and it starts, I would suspect fault in the ignition circuit...

loosen, remove, clean and reinstall large cable that runs from starter to battery. hope this helps, good luck.

When its hooked up, you should be able to put 12 volts on the little stud on the solenoid and it should start. One large stud will have 12 volts on it, so just jump it right there. Did you get the wires in the right place. The solenoid should have 1 large wire going down to the starter. Be sure the battery cables are clean and tight ( both ends) Check battery voltage when cranking, should go to 10-11 volts. Check voltage between negative terminal on battery and engine, should be ZERO when cranking. The solenoid has 2 large studs, make sure the battery positive wire and all the other wires are hooked to this stud, the other large stud should just have the wire going to the starter.

Check ALL your connections. Take each Batt terminal off and scrape them or buy a Batt. brush from parts store/cheap 7 bucks. If you can jump it it may be the Batt. has just gone.. Clicking means you have a bad connection or the Batt is shot.

with a new starter, this sounds like a bad battery cable or terminal end. the easier way to figure this out w/out checking the voltage drop across a whole battery cable is to affix the jumper cables strategically to find the bad one. Put jumper (+) on batt (+) and jumper (-) directly onto a piece of unpainted engine metal and not in the way of moving parts. If it starts this way then you've got a bad ground cable. If it didn't start, put jumper (+) on the hot post of the starter solenoid (there are 2 posts, only touch the one w/ the fatter cable going to it) or on a remote jump point if equipped, and put jumper (-) to batt (-). If it now starts you need a positive battery cable, or just a battery-to-starter cable (if separate)

Try the ignition switch (the actual part with the keys). You can actually try starting the car without using the keys. You can do this by hot wiring.

check battery voatage with a volt meter. After verifying 12v or better at starter, check power at starter cable terminal and verify ground at block is good. Then put volt meter across both battery terminals and try to start car. If battery voltage shows 9.5 or less while attempting to crank, change starter.
(make sure that there is 12v at the starter trigger wire with key in "start" before replacng)
(By battery "hot" you mean it's charged, not getting hot, correct?)

May be that you starter is overheating. If the problem is intermitent and generaly occurs after driving for a while then it might be the trouble.

So found the problem it was the seilnoid on the wasnt working properly store said good put it back hit with small hammer fired up so just replaced whole strarter now fires first time sounds awesome had lot of trouble tracking it down went threw new battery's thinking that was prOblem but was bad starter unit try this maybe will help u to