I have no Heat in my 2000 Ford Taurus!

pity you didn't save money by running the fault codes forst
probably the fault is in the temperature sensor unit , fan relay or if you have a viscous fan hub driving the fan that will be the problem

Bob,there still may be air in there........I always bleed the air from the heater hose line entering the water pump. There should be a connection about a foot or so above where it enters there.
Take that loose while engine is cool.
Have someone start the car while you hold it downward AWAY from the alternator,and you stay clear also of that belt.
If the fluid gushes out of that line,it should be getting thru your heater core.
don-ohio

Is the engine heating up on the temperature gauge?

Yes it does pump water at all times... when the thermostat is closed it will only circulate water through the engine, when the thermostat opens it will circulate through the engine and radiator cooling the water that was warm from engine heat.

hi, the problem you are having is down to one of a couple of problems, now as you state the air blows cold then this points towards the thermostat not opening so this then dont pump the coolant round the engine resulting in the top half of the being hot and the bottom half cold so this is why you only get cold air.

so the first thing you should do is get the thermostat changed.

you also need to bare in mind that the problem could be a damaged water pump this does happen from time to time so check for any signs of water leak where the water pump is by the timing belt, if their is no signs of leak then the thermostat is the likely cause.

you also need to think that as the engine has over heated this could have caused the head gasket to fail so this will need looking at to if after changing the thermostat you have the same over heating problem.

so replace the thermostat as this has clearly gone and then when you re-fill the coolant make sure any bleed screws are undone if you have any on your coolant system usually located in one of the top hoses running around the engine, (not all coolant systems have one as many are self bleeding so dont worry if you dont see any bleed screws) now when you start filling the coolant up make sure you only trickle the coolant in to prevent any air lock building up in the system.

if you are unsure what you are doing then please leave this to someone who has some idea of the kind of work involved in this type of repair

have your heater core pressure checked. it maybe clooged even though you had system flushed. additionally did you buy the correct thermostat? the computer is a sensitive thing and alot of other components are activated because of the temperature. the opening temp is 188-195 degrees. so you should have bought the 185 degree thermostat. i had same problem and bought the higher temp thermostat. i couldn't believe that such a small change would make a big difference. good luck.

well if you pull the thermostat and it has a guewy residue on it you need to flush the cooland system but most of the time if your engine is overheating its 1 of 2 things... the water pump is shot or the thermostat is sticking closed. that is where i would start though the thermostat is the cheaper of the 2 and easer to get at
good luck

OHV engine. I have seen these wear the blades off the waterpump. Does the heat work.

the thermostat can be easily changed from up top, the T-stat is located at the engine end of the upper radiator hose under the flange the hose connects to. Make sure u follow manufacturer's cooling system bleeding procedures when you refill after the T-stat is changed out.

If it's the 3.0L Vulcan Engine (OHV), the thermostat is on the driver's side of the vehicle. Follow the upper radiator hose back to a metal area with three 10mm bolts. This is the thermostat housing. Undo the bolts, and there's the thermostat. Mark the back of it with the old thermostat in it (if you get one with a jiggle valve, it'll make it easier to put the new one in because the jiggle valve needs to be on top). The thermostat and housing aren't perfectly round, so you'll have to play with it a little to get it to line up. Make sure to change the gasket. The spring side of the thermostat goes into the engine.

The water pump is in the serpentine assembly. It's the larger pulley located toward the firewall. It'll be easiest to remove the water pump if you also remove the coolant recovery tank. The water pump pulley has four 1/2" bolts that you need to take out WITH THE BELT STILL ATTACHED. I can't stress this enough. The belt will keep the pulley in place so that you can remove the bolts. Take the pulley off, then the belt. Remove the heater hose at the top and the radiator hose at the bottom. There are 12 bolts of two diameters (1/2" and 10mm if I'm not mistaken). Tap the heater hose lightly with a soft-faced mallet to break the seal with the gasket. Trash the old gasket. Replace gasket (you can also line the mating surface of the water pump with RTV Sealant, put the new gasket on the new pump, and line the other side of gasket with a second coat of RTV sealant if you want a really good seal). Install the water pump and torque to manufacturer's specs. Attach the pulley to the water pump hand tight and put the belt back on. Tighten the pulley bolts. Put the coolant recovery tank back in place. Fill with coolant, start engine, bleed and check for leaks.

To bleed cooling system: Idle the engine until the thermostat opens (you'll be able to tell bacause the upper radiator hose will be uber hot and you'll feel coolant running through this hose). Squeeze all hoses in the system that you can reach, but don't burn yourself. Stop the engine and let it cool. Open the radiator cap and squeeze the COLD upper radiator hose. You'll see some bubbles in your recovery tank. You might have to monitor your coolant level for a couple of days while the final bits of air are purged through your radiator cap (that's why it's pressurized).

Hope this helps. It's not hard, but it took me quite awhile.