Parking brake pedal goes to floor

All the torque specs can be found using Google. Just change the words in the search query and press Enter.

Wheel hub

https://www.google.com/search?q=2003+Chevy+Suburban+Z71+wheel+hub+torque+specs

Or get a copy of the Repair Manual for $16

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There are things you need to check:
1. The brake pads or shoes on the back wheels.
2. The cable that connects from the pedal to the cable on the back wheels,
3. The cable on the back wheels.
The cables are adjustable.

Its possible. There is an equalizer valve that balances pressure to the 4 wheels.
Two other possible causes are a problem with the parking brake, or the front rotors and pads are glazed and not providing any friction.

well, check the brake lines for leakage after adding brake fluid to the full mark. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it's likely there is a leak somewhere after the master cylinder. If the pedal gets hard after adding fluid, and pumping it several times with the car off, then the master cylinder is still ok.

If air has gotten into the master cylinder, it may have to be bled out on a bench, or using a scanner if that's the way your vehicle is.

Bleeding the Brake System (ABS) Auto Bleed Procedure NOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below.
NOTE: Perform this procedure when replacing the brake pressure modulator valve or electro-hydraulic control unit.

1. Perform the manual brake bleeding procedure. Refer to Bleeding the Brake System (non-ABS).
2. Check the master cylinder fluid level often to prevent running the system dry.
3. Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure (for Gas engines) once, or the Function Test (for Diesel engines) four times. Make sure to release the brake pedal between each test.
4. Perform the manual bleed procedure again. This should remove the remaining air from the brake system.
5. Bleed the system as many times as needed to obtain the appropriate feel of the brake pedal.

How to replace the rear brake pads on a 1995 through 2001 Ford Explorer The system utilizes a drum-in-hat type rear brake rotor. The integral drum allows the use of a drum-and-shoe type parking brake system. All other components are similar to their front disc brake components Remove the two bolts on either side of the brake hose with the rubber boots. Do not remove the four bolts where the axle ties in. The two bolts to be removed require a 10mm socket/wrench. Loosen the pads from the caliper Rotor Removal In order to take the rotors off (replace with new or have them machined), it is best to loosen the emergency brake shoes. To do this, behind the rotors, in the back there is a rubber plug, remove that and you can use a screw driver to engage the teeth of the adjusting screw, turn it clockwise to loosen, usually 10-20 teeth. Usually this means turn it downward. After this, it may still be difficult to get the rotors off without tapping them. Use a rubber mallet and hit them from behind. Before really whacking the rotor, make sure you have loosened the adjusting screw enough. It may take heavy swings of the rubber hammer to do this. It will eventually break loose. Parking Brake You might want to check the parking brake while you are here. To remove:

• Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

• Remove the outboard return spring.

• Remove the adjusting screw spring.

• Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

• Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw and nut.

• Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

• Remove both parking brake shoes and the inboard return spring.

• Check the parking brake lever for excessive wear and replace as necessary.

To install:

• Position the front parking brake shoe to the backing plate and install the hold-down pin and spring.

• Install the rear parking brake shoe with the inboard return spring.

• Position the brake shoe adjuster screw and nut on the shoes and install the rear shoe hold-down pin and spring.

• Install the brake shoe adjuster spring.

• Install the outboard return spring.

• Adjust the parking brake shoes and install the rotor, caliper and wheel.

• Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).

ADJUSTMENT

• Measure the inside of the drum portion of the rear brake rotor

• Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

• Using Brake Adjustment Gauge D81L-1103-A or equivalent, measure the inside diameter of the drum portion of the rear disc brake rotor.

• Subtract 0.020 in. (0.508mm) from the first measurement, adjust the brake shoes to that size

• Adjust the parking brake adjuster screw until the outside diameter of the parking brake shoes measures 0.020 in. (0.508mm) less than the drum measurement.

• Install the rear disc brake rotor.

Reassembly Reassembly is easy. Put new or machined rotors back on by sliding them over the lugs (they should slide on easily.) Loosen bleeder valve (having a catch bottle handy is good). Push calipers in slowly (using a c-clamp or large channel lock pliers), close bleeder valve. Put on pads. Lubricate metal clips with small amount of anti-seize. Re-adjust the emergency brake by turning the opposite direction from loosening. Refill the brake master cylinder

Disc Brake Pads for Suburban 1500 Removal & Installation Front To Remove:
Front caliper mounting bracket

1. Remove the cover on the master cylinder and siphon out 2/3 of the fluid. This step prevents spilling fluid when the piston is pushed back into the caliper bore.
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
4. Compress the brake piston back into its bore using a C-clamp.
5. Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts. Lift the caliper off the rotor.
6. Remove the inboard and outboard pad.
7. Remove and discard the anti-rattle clips.

To Install:
Caliper bracket sleeves

1. Thoroughly inspect, clean and lubricate all caliper slide points, bolts and hardware.
2. Install new anti-rattle clips.
3. Position the inboard and outboard pads into the support bracket
4. With the 2 pads in position, place the caliper over the brake rotor and align the holes in the caliper with those of the mounting bracket.
5. Install the caliper mounting bolts through the sleeves in the inboard caliper ears and into the mounting bracket.
6. Tighten the mounting bolts to: 80 lb. ft, (110 Nm).
7. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Lower the vehicle.
8. Add fluid to the master cylinder reservoirs so they are 1/4 in. (6.35mm) from the top.
9. Test the brake pedal by pumping it to obtain a hard pedal. Check the fluid level and add fluid as necessary.

Rear To Remove:

1. Remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
4. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts. Suspend the caliper from the frame with mechanic's wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose.
5. Remove the brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket.
6. Remove and discard the anti-rattle clips.

Rear brake caliper

To Install:

1. Install new anti-rattle clips.
2. Position the brake pads to the caliper mounting bracket.
3. With the 2 pads in position, place the caliper over the brake rotor and align the holes in the caliper with those of the mounting bracket.
4. Install NEW caliper mounting bolts. Tighten to: 30 lb. ft, (40 Nm).
5. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Refill the master cylinder to the proper level with fresh brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal slowly and firmly to seat the brake pads. Burnish the brakes as needed.

There's speed sensors at each wheel. You may have got some contamination in front of one of them... sounds like the abs is trying to compensate for un equal speed at each wheel... and something may be blocking a proper read at one of the wheels...

Parking brake assembly inside the rear rotor/drum is worn out and scraping the drum. The brake cable could be sticking on, and if so will need replaced.

I have a 2001 Chevy 1500 4 X 4 that recently had all new pads, rotors, and calipers installed. Since then my brake pedal goes almost to the floor before I get any brakes. I took it back to the shop and they bled the brakes with no better results. I bled them also with no results. I took the truck back and they installed a master cylinder with no results. It's now at the Chevy dealer and they say it's normal - BS! I had good brakes before I had all of the brake parts replaced, no one can figure it out. If you have a load in the truck or if you tow anything you better be looking at the ditch to avoid an accident. The original brakes would put you nose into the windshield and now I could stop it better the Fred Flinstone way. Anyone have an answer????????

are your rear drums set up? why did you bleed the brakes. when only when you installed new pads?