Question about 1998 Jeep Cherokee
I have a pretty good drain on fuse # orange "battery feed" the fuse looks fine i h ave brand new battery and brand new altanator why is this fuse draining my battery and what else is it hooked up to .. please help this jeep is killing me :0(
Did you ever figure this problem out? I am having the same issue! i bought a new battery, new alternator, but my jeep keeps dying! i did the battery draw test, as soon as i pulled the fuse block battery feed out the draw was completely gone. can you please tell me what you did, this has been driving me crazy for over a month!
Posted on Dec 18, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Jb power is Junction Block power
Here is a list of tests for this problom
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Junction Block (JB). This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.
ELECTRONIC MODULE IGNITION-OFF DRAW (IOD) TABLE Module Time Out?
(If Yes, Interval And Wake-Up Input)
IOD IOD After Time Out Radio No 1 to 3 milliamperes N/A Audio Power Amplifier No up to 1 milliampere N/A Central Timer Module (CTM) No 4.75 milliamperes (max.) N/A Powertrain Control Module (PCM) No 0.95 milliampere N/A ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) No 0.44 milliampere N/A Combination Flasher No 0.08 milliampere N/A 2. Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb. 3. Disconnect the battery negative cable. 4. Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated. 5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) , one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Fuse Locations and Types - Specifications) for the appropriate wiring information for complete PDC and TIPM fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, diagnose and repair the Charging System as necessary. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.
6. Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step #5 . The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or an inoperative component is the cause.
Posted on Jul 13, 2010
SOURCE: dead battery
First thing check you cigarette lighters make sure none are stuck push in or bad. If you do not find any problems there, then you can try taking you negative battery cable off and placing a test light in between the cable and the battery post. You will want to pull out one fuse at a time. Watch your test light; it should get real dim when you find the right circuit that is causing the pull on the battery. The light will not go completely out unless you pull the fuse that carries the memory for the radio out, then it my go out all the way out. There usually is a small amount of voltage being use because of the radio but that will not cause the battery to go down. The battery can carry that. This is the easiest way I can tell you. There are other things you can try but they require special equipment most people don’t have or the knowledge to read wiring diagrams. Nor do they have a working knowledge of electricity to trouble shoot this kind of problem. If you can by chance find the circuit that is causing the voltage draw then you might find the wire or component that is causing you your problem. Look for wires that may have bad spot in them form rubbing on something and laying on metal. If you cannot find it by doing this you will probable have to take it to a shop.
P.S. you don’t have a big amp in this do you because they will kill a battery in about 5 minutes, if you are playing it without the engine running.
Posted on Oct 28, 2008
Unit has a draw somewhere that needs to be addressed. I have found the auto starts sometimes can cause this. But if the draw is through the negative side it could be tough. You should take it to the dealer and have them perform a draw test on the entire vehicle.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
I had this issue with my grand cherokee and found that the drivers side door switch wasnt making adequate contact with the door. I purchased some adhesive Velcro discs and stuck the soft side to the door where the switch makes contact.
Posted on Feb 01, 2010
Obviously you have a current draw from somewhere, and one of the easiest ways to find it, is to hook a 12 volt test light between your + battery terminal, and your + battery clamp. Just remove positive clamp, have one end of test light hooked to clamp, and the other attached to post of battery. As long as test light is bright, it's showing a draw. Then start pulling fuses from the circuits that you suspect may be causing the draw, like alarm system, door locks, etc. When the light dims or goes out when fuse is pulled, you found the circuit causing the draw, or one of the draws. Keep in mind the memory on your stereo will cause a slight draw for sure.
Posted on Jun 10, 2010
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