2010 Honda Odyssey pulls to right even after alignment and new tires

If the horn isn't working have you checked the fuse for the horn? You need to check fuse 13, (20A) in the engine bay fuse box. I've added a link to a website for information on what fuse is where.
Is it the sounder on the front of the vehicle you want to change or the button inside the vehicle? Changing the actual sounder is easy, the problem is often getting to it. The sounder is positioned in the right corner of the front bumper.
To replace the sounder you will need to SAFELY jack up the vehicle and support it on a jack stand. Remove the front right wheel. Then remove the wheel arch liner. There is a pair of horns bolted to the frame each with a 12mm bolt. Remove the bolt and the wiring block connector for each horn and lift them out. Refit the new horns and block connectors. Test the horns work. Refit the wheel arch liner and the wheel. Lower the vehicle back onto the ground.

https://fuse-box.info/honda/honda-odyssey-rl3-rl4-2005-2010-fuses

check tire pressure and alignement.

like a bad tire or out of round tire..it will make a slight thumping sound while driving..and maybe shake the entire car at low speeds or shake the steering if in front..

here are some common causes and solutions to your problem.

1. wheel alignment. go to your nearest tire service center and have your wheel alignment and wheel camber checked.
2. Tire pressure. perhaps the tire pressure in your left tire is much lower than the pressure on the right tires.
3. if your vehicle is a rear wheel drive vehicle, although very uncommon, the problem can be on the differential. differential is the device that makes the movements on your wheels syncronized even during on turns.

I am a Honda Master tech. There is no such problem for this vehicle. First things first, if the vehicle drives straight , but the steering wheel is off center, then that's what the problem is...the steering wheel is not centered. when an alignment is done to a vehicle the steering wheel is set be a technician (not by a machine). My advice to you is to take it back to the dealer and go for a road test with the service manager or shop foreman. show them what you mean. they will take care of you. good luck

Start from the ground upwards. Check tire pressure, jack up wheels and spin tires to check for brakes dragging. Then spin tires again and listen for roughness in the wheel bearings.

Some of these vehicles need alignment on both the front and rear wheels. If tires are not running parallel it will create drag.

The usual measures for clean oil, filter, air filter and so on. If you have not seen a "check engine light" most of the components must be okay. A 6 year old vehicle should have a set of spark plugs after 50,000 miles or so.

The gasoline is not always good either. The gasohol has a lower energy content so you do not get as far as with 100% petrol. That's about all I can recommend at this point.

If you have vibration in your steering wheel, I would have your CV joints checked out or it might be your front wheel bearings. The vibration coming from those two problems would get a little more intense as your speed increases. Are your tires in good shape? Did it vibrate before you got your brakes done?

Alignment: Specifications
Alignment
Wheel Alignment
Tire size:
VAN, LX, EX, EX-L models: P235/65R16 103T
EX-L Touring model: P235-710R460A 104T
Tire pressure:
Front (VAN, LX, EX, EX-L Touring models) ........................................................................................................... 230 kPa (2.3 kgf/cm2, 33 psi)
Front (EX-L model) .................................................................................................................................................. 240 kPa (2.4 kgf/cm2, 35 psi)
Rear ........................................................................................................................................................................... 240 kPa (2.4 kgf/cm2, 35 psi)
Caster angle ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 2° 32' ± 1°
Camber angle:
Front ........................................................................................................................................................................................................ 0° 00' ± 30'
(Maximum difference between the front right and left side: 0° 30')
Rear ............................................................................................................................................................................................................. -0° 30' ± 45'
The camber angle can be adjusted up to ±25' (center of tolerance) by replacing one damper pinch bolt with the adjusting bolt. The camber angle can
be adjusted up to 50' by replacing both damper pinch bolts with the adjusting bolts.
Front toe-in ............................................................................................................................................................................. 0 ± 2 mm (0 ± 1/16 inch)
Rear toe-in ......................................................................................................................................................................... 2 ± 2 mm (1/16 ± 1/16 inch)
Turning angle

Inward wheel 41° 56' ±2°
Outward wheel 34° 32' (Reference)

Toe - 0° +/- 2mm

First we need to know where is the shaking noise coming from?Is your car a 4X4?If noise comes from a driven wheel it can be the differential system or bearing also.Usually the speed you have specified is pointing to wheel alignment problem.Also can advice to go to a different tire shop and check wheel alignment again,also ask the mechanic to check the state of your wheels and tires.One of them may be damaged .

Hello. Wheel alignment is the adjustment of the front and rear wheels so that they are correctly inline with each other and pointing straight forward. If they point to the left or right the car will pull to that side of the road while being driven. The front wheels also need to be adjusted to ensure they are not too far forward and riding on the back of the tire, or not too far back and riding on the front of the tire. Lastly, all tires need to be checked to ensure they are not leaning too far in or out of their wheelwell, causing the tires to become prematurely bald. For most vehicles it can cost you $40-$120 depending where its done, plus any shim kits needed to adjust the wheel allignment back to factory specs. Most shops provide 2 or 4 wheel alignment, so always ensure that they perform a 4 wheel alignment. Always ask for the alignment test reports for both before and after the work is performed so you can see for yourself which were out of alignment. Pot holes, curb-hopping, railroad/railway tracks, etc. play a huge part in your vehicle alignment going bad. 4 tires on some cars can cost you $500-1600 to replace, but an alignment check every 2-4 years will only cost you a very small amount, saving you time and money.