Ignition switch removal
SOURCE: HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE RADIO FROM A 1995 GEO TRACKER????????
To remove the radio:
Remove the ashtray by raising the armrest cover and removing the two
screws at the rear of the ashtray. Slide the ashtray back and then lift
it out. Be careful of the two front tabs, as you don't want to break
them.
Reach below the wood console, where the ashtray front tabs were inserted. Loosen and remove the two wing nuts.
With a small, long flat bladed screwdriver, pry out the leather shifter
surround. The leather shifter surround has a center chrome retaining
ring, the leather surround, and then finally a black plastic surround.
The chrome retaining ring has 3-4 tabs which are locked in below the
leather surround. It depends on the year of the Jaguar. Probably the 95
has three, but maybe four. They should be at the front and rear of the
trim piece (2 front and 1 back, or 2 front and two back) but I've seen
then on the sides. The point is, you have to be careful with the
screwdriver and find the tabs. The screwdriver should be slid between
the leather and the retainer. Pull upwards on the retainer gently, and
as you loosen the tabs, it will come out.
Remove the leather surround. Once the chrome retainer has been removed, it should be easy to work it out of the console.
Loosen the black trim ring gently as it has tabs as well, but they are
visible once the leather trim has been removed. Lift it upwards out of
the wood trim and pull it to the side out of the way. You don't need to
disconnect the wires, just lay the black trim to the side.
Lift the rear of the wood console trim and gently, gently slide it back
and up. It will try to hang on the leather console, and can be
difficult. Patience is important, as the walnut on the ski slope cracks
easy (really easy).
Once the wood console trim (ski slope) is removed, you should have a
row of screws up the side of the center control panel, where the radio
and AC controls are. There are four to six on each side, depending on
what Jaguar used at the time, as the 95 cars mechanically are somewhat
of a blend of the XJ40 and the XJ300. Remove these screws, and note any
spacers that were behind them. These spacers get lost quickly, and
cause the ski slope to sit awkwardly on the console.
The radio will slide forwards once these screws are removed. Remove the
radio harness and the antenna lead. As the books say, assembly is
reverse of removal.
Good luck, and let me know if you have questions. If you are replacing
the radio, let me know as I have the harness wiring codes and can help
you with that as well.
SOURCE: 4x4 hub removal on 1996 geo tracker
http://www.kick-fix.com/hubs/hubs.html
with pictures!
Testimonial: "Great information! My biggest question was how to remove the locking hub assembly without damaging anything.This explained it all.The pics helped too."
SOURCE: how do I remove the speedometer cable to
Easiest way is to do it from the gearbox end to save stripping out the dash and then having rattles after you have finished!
Disconnect at the top of the gearbox (it simply comes out by removing the small bolt that holds it in then pull up and out)
Rise the cable as high as possible, spray onto it in a way that makes its way onto the inner cable - use penetrating fluid first the spray with a lube that has a teflon base as this will keep it lubed for a long time.
Regards
Lloyd
Testimonial: "Thank you for the info. My friend has a tracker and removed the dash to lubricate the cable and it was quite a chore. Your way is much better. thanks"
SOURCE: looking for timing belt diagram on 97 Geo Tracker
Click on the following free, direct Link. It has the Timing Belt Diagrams, including Marks and Instructional Diagrams.
Let me know if this helped...
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1997/make/geo/model/tracker/1997_geo_tracker_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm
SOURCE: need to change timming belt 1997 geo tracker
TIMING BELT CHANGE
You should have some mechanical skills before attempting any engine maintenance! These are basic instructions, and you must knoe what you removed, when, and what order so you can reinstall them in order.
First, you have to remove everything in the way! You need to remove the Fan, clutch, and shroud, pump pully & drive belts.
Next, you need to remove the Crank Pully:
1. Crank Pully Bolt 2. Crank Pully 3. Center Bolt 4. 5mm Hex drive (used to remove pully bolts)
Once the fan stuff, and pully(s) are removed, then you need to remove the Timing Belt cover:
Once the cover is removed, you will need to loosen the adjusting nut and pully bolt on the Belt Tensioner:
A. Adjust Nut B. Pully Bolt C. TENSIONER PULLY
Once the the Adjust Nut, and Pully bolt are loose, move the pully as far towards the water pump as possible.
Then, you can slip the timing belt from the sprockets.
Check the tensioner for roughness and excess play!
DO NOT MOVE THE CAM OR CRANK SPROCKETS! IF you do, then you will have to line up the Crank and Cam for piston number one at Top Dead Center before placing the new timing belt on! Note the timing marks on the crank and camshaft sprockets. IF YOU MUST! Allign the Cam and Crank at piston#1, Top Dead Center before removing the belt. Each sprocket has a small hole, with a line through it, and there is a small groove or "V" it alligns with on the engine.
Now, once the timing belt is off, look at your new timing belt. Older belts use the Squared off teeth, while new ones have the rounded teeth. Make sure you have the correct belt for your sprockets! Never reinstall a belt that is in questionable condition.
BELT WEAR CONDITIONS
If there are Arrows on the belt, they must be pointing to the RIGHT when you put the new belt on the sprockets. If there isn't one, then paint one on, and place the belt back on the sprockets. The arrow will indicate to a mechanic, this is the way the belt must be put back on (if they replace any cam or crank oil seals).
Slip the new belt onto the Crank sprocket. While maintaining tension on the side of the belt opposite the tensioner, slip the belt onto the Camshaft sprocket.
Releace the Tensioner adjusting nut to allow spring tension against the belt.
Temporarily reinstall the crank pully, taking care to align the notch in the pully with the raised area on the sprocket.
Rotate the crank clockwise two complete revolutions. Recheck the alignment of the of the valve timing marks. If they do not align properly, loosen the tensioner, slip the belt off the crank pully, align the timing marks, reinstall the belt, and check alignment again.
Tighten the tensioner nut, then the bolt.
Reinstall all parts removed, in the opposite order, of course.
Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temp, then road test.
THEORETICALLY, you should simply be able to replace the belt with the new one, and go, as long as you did not move any of the sprockets when removing or installing the belt. Most people do it this way, and do not test for alignment before replacing everything. When the belt wears, timing will be off, very little, and this is why you check alignment. The belt may have slipped a tooth, making the timing off. This is why the Cam and Crank sprockets must both align properly.
An experienced person will do just that: Replace the belt, and go. It really isn't all that hard. It helps to have a second person around with some experience also.
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