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Anonymous Posted on Oct 20, 2017

What causes diffrent compression levels on each cylinder

1997 mitsubishi eclipse gst turbo i cant go over 4k rpm will start to jerk around ..... had a mechanic diagnose it and it had diffrent compression in each cylinder.... he said my valves are bent but i dont think so... whats another thing that can cause diffrent compression levels cylinder 1. 125 cylinder 2. 75 cylinder 3. 75 cylinder 4. 150

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Brad Brown

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  • Mitsubishi Master 19,187 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 20, 2017
Brad Brown
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Joined: Nov 14, 2008
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Carbon build up, burned valves and seats, piston ring wear, a general mechanic can tell you if the engine is having compression issues but you should have a cylinder leak test done to see where the problem is exactly.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 5158 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 26, 2008

SOURCE: low compression in #1and #2 cylinders 1993 eclipse gs 1.8l

burned valve is likely the culprit.... or bad rings.... hook air up to that cyclinder one at a time.... and listen where the air is escaping... be aware that the motor will rotate till the piston is at the bottom of it's rotation. if it's a burned valve you will have to remove the head and replace it but somewhat easier job then replacing the rings. darn almost forgot.... it can also be a blown head gasket.... same procedure but you might need a brush and some soap water to test for an air leak at the side of the head. when you are done spray some wd 40 on it to get the water off so the spark plugs do not arc.


Robert

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alex metro

  • 364 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 06, 2008

SOURCE: 95 eclipse MAF bypass?

if you want to get rid of your MAF sensor, you will need to upgrade your engine management. there are a few piggy-back systems like MAP-ECU . you could also go with a stand-alone system like the AEM EMS

Anonymous

  • 37 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 26, 2009

SOURCE: crankshaft position sensor location

Hello. One way to check if it is working is when you try to start the car does the needle move on you tac? If not then your crank sensor is more then likely the problem. It is located on the backside of the engine under the intake manifold. If is in about the center of the block. There will be a 10mm bolt holding the sensor in. If you decide to change it yourself (not to terrible of a job) unplug the sensor, remove the bolt and spin it back and forth slightly while pulling it out. It may be stoburn and you might have to work at it for a little bit (not a done of room) but it will come. When it's out the sensor will be shaped kind of like an L. I have changed a few of these over time and they can be a little stoburn. To install just reverse the process.

Anonymous

  • 18 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 13, 2010

SOURCE: 1997 mitsubishi eclipse gst wont start it looks

Remove the bottom of your back seat. Turn the ignition on without cranking the car. You should hear the fuel pump prime for a few seconds and shut off. If you don't hear that sound, there are two relays on the right side of the firewall next to the master cylinder that are part of the fuel system. I had one go bad on me (the contact corroded) and didn't know which one it might be so I bought the cheaper of the two. Haven't had a problem since!

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 12, 2010

SOURCE: My car stalls when slowing to stop or crawling in traffic.

i had the same problem on my 95 pajero 3500 andafter all my troubles my car produced an occasional airfilter blow back from running on gas before it finally would'nt run my problem turned out to be my crankshaft sensor was failing then died.

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It's going to be hard to pinpoint that - with age and time, the wastegate and related parts can start to wear out, so that may need to be repositioned to keep the proper boost level. I know your car comes with a boost gauge, but do you have an aftermarket one? They're much better - the OEM boost gauge is not accurate enough to do much other than tell you whether you're in boost or vacuum. With an aftermarket gauge, you'll know what pressure you're actually making. With that, you can tweak the nut so that the wastegate opens at the proper point. Or you could get an electronic boost controller (used GReddy PRofec II units are available on eBay for less than $150) and really give yourself accurate boost control.
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