Rear Door Electric Lock buzzing and stuck

Does it make any noise - like it's trying to unlock? If so, push DOWN on the hatch or Pull UP while unlocking w/the remote in case it's stuck. If no noise, verify that there isn't a blown fuse - look in the Owner's Manual for the correct fuse and location (under the dash or under the hood).

Look at the wire harness on hinge side of rear door. The orange wire is hot all the time, fuse protected. There may be two orange wires, doesn't matter, check them both for voltage.Use a test light to check for voltage. Also, check ground. Ground wire is black. See the rrdr mdl fuse, it supplies voltage to left and right rear door modules, according to my info.

Could be the electric lock actuator . Without testing this would be just a guess. Video's on youtube showing how to test .

Power Door Lock Operation
The vehicle is equipped with power door locks. Each lock actuator is powered and controlled by the door module mounted in the individual door, but the rear integration module (RIM), which is the master control for the door lock system, determines when the lock functions are permitted. The RIM receives and examines the requested lock function from the individual door modules, or from the remote function actuator (RFA) via the class 2 serial data circuit. The RIM also examines the transmission shift selector position and the ignition switch position information available over the Class 2 serial data circuits. If the RIM determines that a lock or unlock function is permitted, it sends a class 2 message back to the individual door modules commanding them to perform that Lock or Unlock function.
Power Door Lock Components
The power door lock system consists of the following components:
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Driver door lock switch

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Passenger front door lock switch

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LH rear door lock switch

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RH rear door lock switch

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LH middle door lock switch (w/ V4U)

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RH middle door lock switch (w/ V4U)

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Driver door switch assembly (DDSA)

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Driver door module (DDM)

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Passenger front door module (PDM)

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LH rear door module (LRDM)

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RH rear door module (RRDM)

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Left middle door module (LMDM) (w/ V4U)

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Right middle door module (RMDM) (w/ V4U)

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Driver door lock actuator

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Passenger front door lock actuator

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LH rear door lock actuator

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RH rear door lock actuator

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LH middle door lock actuator (w/V4U)

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RH middle door lock actuator (w/ V4U)

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Driver door cylinder unlock switch

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Rear integration module (RIM)

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DRVMDL fuse (10-amp)

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PASS MDL fuse (10-amp)

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RRDR MDL fuse (10-amp)

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Class 2 serial data link

Sounds like your door module is the issue. You can try to disconnect the battery for 5-10 minutes then retry or GMC to see if there is a recall.

sounds like a bad reley to me dude

The motor is shot. It works a little and overheats, replace the motor . Same thing the the lock acuators. The are trying but have lost the power to move the locks. May as well replace them while the door is apart.

The rear door lock actuator needs to be replaced. If you have the dealer do it you will pay $300.00+. If you do it, you can do it in an hour for about $20.00. Just buy a universal actuator kit that looks similar to the one already in there from the factory. Do A Google Search on "Mazda Tribute Rear Door Lock Actuator" to find sources for them.

This is a VERY common problem on Ford Escapes and Mazda Tributes, all years. I am surprised there has not been a recall on this.

That's one of those thing you will need to look at. check the electric solenoid to make sure it has a good ground and "hot" connection. Also make sure that the lock mechanism is operating freely and not binding.

if it was mine I would take the rear inside door panel off and see if there is any rust or bind in the power door lock motor itself and also make sure that no one has broken a key off or stuck anything in the lock cause I had an expedition with this same problem and it was a broken key in the lock