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Posted on Dec 10, 2012
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Bearing on transmission

I check the axle and it moving up and down at the transmission

1 Answer

montehammons

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  • Chrysler Master 5,531 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 10, 2012
montehammons
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Joined: Sep 14, 2011
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Have it checked. Has your constant velocity joint at end of axle where it enters the transmission come apart? Is the rubber boot still on the cv joint?

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Grinding metal sound over 30 mph

I believe that your Subaru has a transmission issue. There are quite a few things that will make a grinding noise. Wheel bearings, worn out brakes, damaged brake rotors or drums, loose or damaged brake calipers, defective hardware kit (for the brake shoes), torque converter, flywheel, U-joints, and CV joints. The interesting part of your symptoms is that you can only hear the grinding between 30-60MPH. I think you need to continue testing and inspecting components, one by one. You have all ready narrowed your search down. You know that the Brakes, CV joints, and Bearings are fine. So now you need to focus on the drive train. Inspect as much as you can from the flywheel, to the transmission, the drive shaft and rear axel, and the output shaft and front drive axel. If you can not find it yourself it may be time to send it in for repair. Let me know if you have any questions or new information, good luck.
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Your problem is a bad CV axle and outer carrier bearing failure. The grinding is coming from brake rotor on that side due to the bearing failure. the brake rotor and bearing is causing the lock down. Do not attempt to drive or further damage will occur. Transmission is probably OK. Replace both sides (CV axels and Carrier bearings, 150,000 is time) Check brake components for damage and replace pads while you are there.
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My town and country is making a loud humming noise

It all depends if the humming sound comes from the engine or the transmission. Check the idler bearings, the water pump bearings or the belt.
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How do you replace a front wheel shaft rubber boot

Split wrap around boots are not a good option. If your axle joint is in good shape rebooting is an option. It is extremely messy and often takes a special tool to install the new boot clamps. A new axle or a factory rebuilt is always a good option. Beware of local rebuilders they may short cut and not replace all the worn parts.
With the wheel on the ground take off the axle nut, jack up the car, take off the wheel, unbolt the strut, take off the caliper, pull the disc and bearing holder down, and pull the axle out the back side. Pull the axle out of the transmission and take it over to your bench. Remove the inner boot clamps, pull back the inner boot from the transmission bearing cup. There is a large ring clip holding the bearing into the cup , remove the clip and slide the inner cup off of the bearing. With a circlip plier remove the clip from the end of the shaft and slide the inner bearing off of the shaft. Now take the clamps off of the outer boot and slide the boot down the length of the shaft. Clean all of the parts thoroughly and regrease before reassembly. The new boot has to slide down the length of the shaft, from inside to out side, to be installed on the outer joint.
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I WORK AT A REPAIR SHOP AND I HAVE A 1998 VOLKWAGEN JETTA IT CAME IN FOR A VIBRATION AT 30 TO 35 ON ACCEL ONLY I REPLACED THE STRUT MOUNTS AND BEARINGS AXLE AND HUB WAT ELSE COULD IT BE YOU CAN SEE THE...

If you replaced the axles, It cant be the C.V.(constant velocity) joints. unless you only changed the bearings, the CV joints would be my starting point. (try to turn the axle by hand while the transmission is in park. if they have excessive play that may be you culprit) changing the half shaft is much less time consuming than trying to rebuild the C.V.'s especially if you've never done it). I would try to narrow it down, after a test drive you should be able to tell if the shake is related to the steering, suspension, or drive train. Check tie rods, and the ball joints (with the car lifted try to move the wheels rapidly in and out by hand from side to side(tie rods) and top to bottom (ball joints) if there is excessive play you found a problem) I would also check the A arm bushings. if those are severely worn they can cause bad handling, or a violent shake. If these all check out I would look into the transmission having the problem that's all i can think of, I hope this helps
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I have a 2004 dodge neon the problem is above 30mph there is a what sounds like a wheel bearing whine and vibration which gets louder with speed on the drivers side,when you turn the wheel to the right it...

This certainly has the sound of a bad wheel bearing. Be sure that both front wheel bearings are good, as I have many times seen professionals pick the wrong bearing. Another possibility however is that the cv shaft or drive axle is making the noise. A bad axle will react very similarily to a bad bearing. Try moving the axle in and outward towards the transmission if there is play there it could vey possibly be your answer
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Car make noise, look like is left wheel bearing or transmission. When turn right noise dissapear. When car is risen on stands , noise only when left wheel is turning. It is wheel bearing or transmission...

Check the CV joint that the axle connects to. They make a clicking sound when turning a corner if badly worn. Both CV joints are commonly replaced when one of them goes out.
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CV up and down movement while in transaxle.

You can go to (autozone.com) & sign up for free & get access to parts prices & repair guides, that may just have what you need for info. Once signed up just pick your vehicle & go to repair guides & click on "drive train". Good Luck
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