Ford escape alarm goes off after i lock car at work and at home

Car thieves are clever. Some hatches aren't alarmed, so they try there first. At least the alarm scared them off.

I would suggest resetting ECU or going to dealership.

My problem started after a low battery also. It is a different problem than yours but it might solve your problem. Here is my solution. I believe it's worth a try for the price. All signs point to the Accessory Relay (NOT the Accessory Delay Relay). I replaced the Accessory Relay (Standard Part V13081 RY612). It cost me $15.61 with tax. On the 2004 Ford Escape, it is just to the right of the fuses in the fuse box by the driver's side seat. Three days and all good so far. It is well worth the price to see if this works for you like it worked for me.

One of your door switches is faulty. You will need to have it scanned to see which door it is then replace the door latch assy. in that door.

It almost sounds like an interuption in the security system. Have the vehicle tested by a dealer or qualified mechanic.

Subject; 2006 Ford Escape

Re: dome light, door ajar lamp on dash, uncontrollable alarm activation. I just purchased the subject vehicle and did have problems with the factory (OEM ) alarm going off through the day and night. The first thing I did to fix the problem was; I removed all the door locks from each of the doors and disassembled them to ensure proper operation of the micro switches within each of the door locks. I also checked the hood trigger switch to ensure it was functioning correctly. I removed the plastic cover on the inside of the hatch to ensure proper function of the two door latches under it (one for the hatch the other for the glass). Still having the problems I originally had I decided my problem could be a bad ground to the frame. So I made another ground from a trigger switch to the chassis (frame). I made my ground connection above the headliner on the right rear of the vehicle. Raise the main rear hatch and pull the top section of the plastic corner post panel back, pull the headliner down to expose the multi pin connector going to the rear hatch wiring. In that bundle of wires is a black/White stripe wire. I soldered a wire to that wire and attached the other to ground. I would not suggest removing the locks from your doors or hatch, and oil/WD-40 won't work either. However high pressure air with carburetor cleaner seem to work best for me in making the door locks work smoother. Basically all the cleaner does is removed dirt and dust buildup from around the micro switch assembly within each door. You could potentially have a bad door lock to but can isolate them one by one. Good luck.

I would remove anything, not put there from the factory, when it was built.
That said, you, won't likely be able to do that yourself, so you need a repair shop.

try disconnecting the battery cables from the battery for up to a half hour and then reconnect them. im not sure if this will work for you but i have seen it work on some other vehicles, it couldnt hurt to try... hope this does it for ya

immobilizer has kicked in