2005 Jeep Liberty Renegade Differentials

hey Janice,
Check your transmission fluid level.. if its ok,, then have the fluid and filter changed immediately... that should cure it!

its not just the seal.... i bet,

99% of seals that fail are , the bearing is allowing , out of spec.

moving in the axle

so when doing all that hard work ? we check this first.

do you know all cars have this book, called the FSM.

and all show you how this is done? every one.

factory service, manual,



but hark, we have them on line now.

alldata.com (15 BUCKS)



I BET PART 2 AND 3 ARE BAD HERE

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=533119&ukey_product=4240348



THE REAL CD IS ABOUT $130 (instant payback first job done by you) see?



https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx





eg.

Removal & Installation

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.



2. With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on hoist.



3. Remove differential housing cover and drain lubricant.



4. Rotate differential case so pinion mate shaft lock screw is accessible. Remove lock screw and pinion mate shaft from differential case.



5. Push axle shaft inward and remove axle shaft C-lock from the axle shaft.



6. Remove axle shaft from side gear and axle tube.



7. Remove axle shaft seal from axle tube with a seal pick.

To install:

1. Remove any old sealer/burrs from axle tube.



2. Coat new seal lip with axle lubricant and install seal with a seal driver.



3. Lubricate bearing bore and seal lip with gear lubricant.



4. Install axle shaft through seal, bearing and engage into side gear splines.



5. Install C-lock in axle shaft end, then push axle shaft outward to seat C-lock in side gear.



6. Install pinion mate shaft into differential case and through thrust washers and differential pinions.



7. Align hole in shaft with hole in the differential case and install lock screw with Loctite on the threads. Tighten lock screw to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).



8. Install the differential cover.



9. Install rear brake components.

Four things to check; tires, shocks/struts, differential, and breaks.

tires: check to see all the tires are balanced and at the proper pressure

differential: if you are hearing a grinding sound and there is oil dripping from the rear or front differentials you should et them reaired

shocks/struts: push down on the bumpers if you are able to bottom out the susspension then you need to replace the shocks/struts

breaks: if your breaks are squeaking or you hear metal grinding then you may need to replace the brakes

the differential would be your most likely candidate for the problem the way you have described this problem, but don't rule out the others because it may be a combination of the problems.

Not if you have the abililty to remove the fluid and put new fluid back in. That is all they do for the maintainance.

check brake switch under brake pedal... if not working change it..

i would have the tranny fluid changed and leave the rest alone. they were just trying to make more money from you

Sounds like front differential or front drive axle issues. Check the front differential gear oil then take er' to the dealership before you end up spending a bunch of $. Most people change their oil frequently in the engine but forget about flushing the transmission fluid and changing oil in the front and rear differentials. I have three Ford 4X4s. Two which really get used hard. The 93 has 311K miles and still runs excellent. Trans and differentials get a fluid change every 25K miles and moble one synthetic engine oil changes every 5k miles.

Is the noise in the front or middle? If it's in the front, it is most probably a wheel hub or differential case bearing. First I would check (or replace) all the gear lube in the transfer case and both differentials.
If the sound is under the middle of the jeep, it's probably a front output bearing in the transfer case.

I'm assuming you are talking about gear oil for the differentials. It's the pumpkin shaped thing on the axles. If you want to change the oil, loosen up the bolts with a drain pan underneath it. Clean the mating surfaces of the differential cover/housing and apply RTV to seal it. There should be a rubber grommet toward the top of the pumpkin, remove it after everything is sealed and fill to bottom of hole. That's how I do my '93, anyways. Some call for friction modifiers to be added to the gear oil, keep that in mind too. It should be in your manual.

hmm, might be that the gear oil of your rear diff needs to either drained and refilled or just topped off. the gear oil for differentials like those use a special kind of oil which is called hypoid and this is specifically used on limited slip differentials.