Soft pedal,30 percent brakage

If the brake pedal has normal resistance when you press on it, the brake pads need to be replaced for $100 at a place like Brakes Plus, because the pads have become worn or glazed.

If the brake pedal feels soft and mushy, the same repair shop will bleed the air out of the brake lines with fresh fluid for $30.

In this case, you will need to leak the for wheels, never leak only one or two wheels when adjusting the breaks. If the leaking continues you need to check the conduit for potential damages. If pedal stay soft after checking everything else, check the break fluid unit. The unit has a piston if I'm not wrong. The piston has some parts that are of rubber material which can wear out or get damaged.

check brake switch above pedal and brake light relay in engine compartment relay box.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6053280-lights_out_lights_not_out_bulbs_ok . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

Honda uses hydrolic clutches. Pop the hood and there should be a reservoir of "clutch fluid" (clutch systems use brake fluid) next to the brake fluid reservoir. It will be marked DOT 3 just fill that up with brake fluid and you'll be good to go.

There may be air in the lines. Bleed all your brakes starting at the farthest wheel from the resevoir, and finishing at the closest one. Try the pedal after its bled. If the pedal still feels soft or travels to the floor there may be a pinhole leak that may be spraying on the underbody of the car, or the seals in the master cylinder are gone filling the vacuum booster(if equipped). Air compresses more than oil so if bleeding works that may be the problem.

Do you have any fluid leaks? Who checked the brakes and what was looked at? The rotors or the pads.

What was done to the car as far as brakes recently? Is the master cylinder leaking? If not, u have air in the lines. Bleed wheel greatest distance from master cyl., working your way to the closest wheel last. Keep checking the master cyl. level, cause if it gets too low, u will have to start over again. When do u hear the noise from the back? When u apply the brakes? Have u pulled the rear drums to look and see what's going on? Let me know the answers to the above, and bleed the brakes in the order described. Let me know what s going on,.

the brakes have to be bleed you wrote that when you start the car the pedal goes to the floor that means the booster is working fine take it back and tell them you want the brakes bleed

It's not a big deal unless that dash light really annoys you.. I've owned 4 Honda Accords ('83, 87, and two '89 models) and they've ALL done the same thing. I just learned to live with it, after all it doesn't mean you really have a brake light or tail light out at all, just a quirky thing about these cars, probably a sensor. And given that I've gotten over 300,000 miles out of EVERY oldr Accord I've owned, without major problems or huge repair bills, that little "idiot light" on the dash is just fine with me! One consistent problem I have had however is water leaking and collecting in the tail lights themselves (I use a small drill bit to drain water from the tail light without cracking it) and also water leaking into the spare tire compartment in the trunk (I drill a hole right thru the metal with large drill bit to drain this water and have no water buildup after that).. I've found that with just basic maintanence these vehicles last FOREVER so take care of it and it will take care of you, and don't sweat the small stuff as long as it gets u from A to B...

The problem is in the master cylinder. The MC is in effect two cylinders in one, one cylinder for the front brakes and one for the rear (one in front of the other). When the MC gets a bit long in the tooth pressure from one cylinder can leak past it's seal into the other cylinder or into the reseviour. The MC is leaking internally, but not externally, so you see no signs of leakage and don't lose any fluid as leaked fluid ends up back in the reseviour. Sometimes the symptom will be evident and other times not, on my car the pedal tends to sink sometimes on hot days but is always firm on cooler days(?). It really is something that does need to be addressed urgently as a matter of safety, because pressure is leaking from one cylinder the pressure in that cylinder won't be high enough. This will affect front to rear brake bias which can have a substantial adverse affect on braking performance, and may cause premature brake lock up at either the front or rear (not sure which end), which could cause loss of control (i.e. massive understeer or oversteer under brakes). $700 does sound at least a bit steep to supply and fit a new MC, and bleed the brakes. Here in Australia new Accord MCs are around AUD$180 or so. The pedal should be quite firm with little free play with a braking system in good condition, if yours typically isn't (before you had that sinking feeling) then the brakes probably need attention (bleeding most likely, but could also be a soft rubber hose, causing the hose to bulge under pressure, not good as it may burst).