Re: replaced battery and alternator and still no voltage...
Check for any breaks in the wiring or even corrosion can stop a battery from charging its like swapping your wiring out for cable ties corrosion is not conductive. clean all terminals and connections.
ok it has nothing to do with the gear box
no ower to your injectors check engine fuse
if and wen u took the gear box out did take the positive lead off?
if u did unplug the computer or try the reset so the computer can no the car is back togeather
You need to check the battery drain. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and using a multimeter between the negative terminal of the battery and the now disconnected negative lead check the amperage which is being drawn from the battery. Your reading should settle anything between 0.03 and 0.20A but hopefully nearer the lower end. If it is above this then you will have to systematicly disconnect each electricrical item until you have a good reading. Once you have get a good reading on the multimeter you should be able have a good idea of what was causing the drain. Good luck
Check the Belt Tensioner. If the Tensioner is not Keeping the Belt Tight it will Drain the Battery Pretty Fast.Please Rate my Response, I need all the Help That I can Get! Thanks!
If you have the owner's manual look up fuses in the index, good illustration. If you don't, I do. It shows a relay and a 15 amp fuse. Look at the passenger kick panel, pull the cover, and it is #2 fuse (second from the top on the left) The see the relay you may have to pull the panel (two screws and a clip) the relay is the third cavity down, third row from the firewal side.
Let me know if this works for you?
Place the transfer case in low range. Pry the shift indicator bezel out of the console using a trim stick.
Apply the parking brake and place the transfer case in neutral. Remove the parking brake trim insert. Remove the console attaching screws. Lift the console up and disconnect the 4WD indicator lamp hamess. Remove the console.
Remove the passenger side knee blocker. Remove the single end screw. Remove the screws below the glove box. Remove the screw at the courtesy lamp. Remove the ash receiver and the screws behind it. Remove the instrument panel armature screw behind the ash receiver. Open the glove box and remove the screws behind it. Lower the panel and disconnect the lamp harnesses. For additional instrument panel service procedures to complete steps 6 thru 25, refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/ Instrument Cluster / Carrier/ Service and Repair/ Procedures. See: Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators\Instrument Cluster / Carrier\Service and Repair
Remove the pod switch bezels on both sides of the steering column with a trim stick.
Remove the drive side knee blocker. Remove the end screw and screws located at the bottom of the knee blocker.
Remove the cowl top trim panel by prying it up with a trim stick. Remove the solar sensor if equipped.
Remove the "A" post trim panels.
Remove the remove the bolts that attach the lower instrument panel reinforcement to the instrument panel armature and remove the reinforcement.
Disconnect the park lamp switch.
Pull back the carpet at the transmission tunnel from the base of the instrument panel center bezel. Remove the nuts from the upper studs and bolts through the floor that secure the instrument panel center bracket.
Remove the bolts that secure the instrument panel center bracket to the drivers side of the transmission tunnel.
Remove the screws securing the Vehicle Information Center and remove it. Remove the screw fastening the mounting bracket.
Unplug the vacuum harness connector or vent tube on ATC equipped vehicles and the wire harness located under the passenger side of the instrument panel.
Remove the screws holding the passenger side kick panel, along with the screw from the kick panel shroud.
Unplug the antenna cable near the right cowl side panel.
Unplug the instrument panel wire harness connectors from the junction block at the right cowl side panel.
Remove the bolts that secure the instrument panel armature to the windshield fence.
Remove the nuts that secure the top if the instrument panel armature to the windshield fence.
Remove the bolts that secure the ends of the instrument panel to the cowl side panel.
Remove the nuts that secure the steering column to the brake pedal support and lower the steering column.
Remove the bolts that secure the instrument panel armature to the brake pedal support.
Place a protective cover on the seats. Lift the instrument panel off the windshield fence studs and maneuver the instrument panel out and lower it onto the seats.
Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the evaporator tubes. Make sure to install plugs or tape the ends of the lines and fittings to ensure that excessive amounts of moisture do not contaminate the A/C system.
Remove the vacuum line at the tee from the main vacuum supply harness. This line runs through the body with the upper refrigerant line.
Remove the Powertrain Control Module with connectors intact and set aside.
Remove the heater A/C housing mounting nuts from the studs on the engine compartment side of the dash.
Remove the heater A/C housing from the vehicle.
To Install the components, reverse the procedure stated above. Torque Specifications: Instrument panel center bracket to floor transmission tunnel fastener: 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.) Instrument panel to windshield fence bolts and nuts: 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.) Instrument panel to cowl side inner panel bolts: 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.) Instrument panel to steering column support bolts: 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.)
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Run this by me one more time your Post doesn't make sence. Is Battery light on? Is alternator working properly 13 to 14 Volts You Must have a fully charged Battery to test. Get tested at your Local Auto Parts Store after charging
the powertrain contol modual (pcm) contols the charging system. my needle would drop from charging to nuthin then back to charging then in the middle of nowhere it quit completly. changed altinator twice and then found out it was the pcm . hope this helps
the alternator failed this is usually a chrylser and jeep dodge isue the bearing fails and the alternator quits charging the if the light comes on its usually alternator but on some jeeps the light dosent come on because it reads that it is charging
the other thing that it could be is the battery shot on ya the only thing you can do to see if its a good battery do a battery acid test
when your car does not start it could be a number of things starting with your power system check your battery conections alternator output and battery voltage they should all read 12.6 volts
Check the alternator output, with engine running and a volt meter check voltage at battery that be alternator out put voltage for the alternator, should not have less then 13.5 volt's with engine running, if less bad alternator, replace it
On the terminal maked"l" you need to put switched power from the ignition[ the problem], will go away.If this is not an option then you can get an alternator repair shop to put a self exciting regulater and it will kick in with a quick rev of the engine,no wireing required
I wont list this as a solution, but it seems that working in the area of the alt may have moved around some wiring...the alt may be OK but perhaps an adjacent wire (maybe a ground) is not well connected. Also check crimped on wire loops on alt connectors..they like to corrode at the crimp where it crushes on the actual wire.
have the alternator regulator and diodes tested. sometimes when the regulators fail they allow ac voltage to go to the battery. ac voltage doesn't charge the battery properly (causes it to deep cycle and shortens its life) and causes all sorts of funny problems with the car. also make sure the battery is secured properly, vibration isn't good for them at all.
Sounds like an intermittent bad voltage regulator inside the alternator,although it could possibly be a loose wiring conecton.You are doing good by checking system voltage at the battery with the engine running.Check for clean tight electrical connections at the battery and at the alternator.Also check grounds.
×