Has new clutch n slave cylinder n was shifting smoothly but every once in awhile it wouuld slip, my buddy changed the tranny oil n sice then it started slipping more often until one day it wouldn't move at all & the underneath of the tranny was covered in oil. I asked my friend who drained n replaced the oil n he said he put 5w 30 oil in it but i personally think thats not rite, can someone plz hel[p???
Many modern transmissions use a 30 grade straight mineral oil in the box but experience shows that a 80-90 grade OEP oil is still the best for long transmission life
However incorrect oil in the transmission will not make it leak or slip as that section is a clutch problem and if you have oil from the bell housing and a slipping clutch it indicates an over full transmission blowing out the input shaft seal and destroying the clutch
the original occasional slipping clutch indicates a problem in the clutch master cylinder or clutch cable and would have been a cheap fix but by allowing a person who is not trained in procedures , the fix will be in excess of $1000.00 as you now require a new clutch kit and front seal in the transmission
SOURCE: master or slave cylinder...leakage?? lines..??
I am totally unfamiliar with the particular setup you have, however I know a bit about clutches, Sifting through what you said, it appears that your clutch is set up too tight. By this I mean that the throwout bearing is always pressing on the release diaphram (or fingers) on the clutch cover. As you drive this is causing the clutch disc to overheat and slip. The repeated bleeding you are doing likely has no effect on this other than that the time you spend bleeding is allowing the clutch assembly to cool off. If the slave cylinder is part of the throwout bearing and is inside the bellhousing you need to remove it and get one that is slightly shorter. If the slave is mounted on the bellhousing and activates a clutch fork that moves the bearing you will need to find a means of backing off the slave adjustment so there is a bit of freeplay between it and the fork. likely since you can drive it you are looking at 1/4" or less play to get it right. My only concern would be that you may have overcentered the fingers on the pressure plate and damaged the return spring. slipping the clutch also has not done good things to the disc either. (like driving down the road with your foot on the brake is not good for brake pads)
Good luck with your project !!
SOURCE: 1994 Honda accord. Drives ok for a while until
Honda recommends that you use a transmission formula specifically from honda. They state that Dexron II or III is a viable alternative.
With that, I recommend that you visit the dealership and ask the parts counter for the specific Honda ATF.
If this doesn't fix the problem, The clutches inside the transmission are probably worn out, or the pump isn't delivering enough pressure.
SOURCE: the transmission silps in drive when you try to
Low fluid , very common symptom. have the fluid checked NOW! you will do damage if you keep driving. Has no dipstick, there are two plugs in the pan . The lower is for draining the upper is for checking and filling. Fluid mudt stream out with engine idling in park.If symptoms continue after filling you have burned up the forward band. Good Luck.
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