Hi Alex, The firing order is 1-3-4-2. When fitting the injector pump I hope you noticed the match marks for timing. When fitted and aligned the engine will be at TDC firing on one. To identify # 1 on the pump, connect the fuel supply and bleed air from the system and rotate the engine one and three quarter revolutions by hand, having someone watch which outlet ejects fuel when passing TDC completing the second rotation. That will indicate number one piston. Follow the firing order for the remaining three. Regards John
SOURCE: transmission fluid in pegueot 406
if its a manual tranny the fill plug is located at the bottom of tranny there is no fill hose or dipstick like with engine oil or automatic transmissions
SOURCE: Changing rear Brakes on a peugeot
Hi Jeff...
I'm afraid this isn't exactly a solution/fix... but I am literally a day or two away from doing this job myself and more importantly though, I've been able to remove the pins you're referring to... so I hope my experiences can help you here.
Btw, my peugeot 406 estate is the V6 version - first edition (I.e. I think '96ish to '99), with rear discs.
Right, the pins I think you're talking about are the biggish ones, which run cross-ways, through the pads & caliper housing. They should come out freely, although each is held in place with a spring-clip. To also confirm we're talking about the same thing, these biggish pins hold the anti-rattle cage in place, which you should be able to see, with the wheel off, looking at the caliper from the side (you should be able to see the sides/edges of the pads too). They are NOT the big bolts that secure the caliper in place.
Anyhow, I used a pair of long nosed pliers to remove the spring clips, then I used the pliers to give the big pin a quick twist (to check it would rotate/move freely, as compared to being rusted in). I then used one half of the pliers to poke the pin backwards. The hole that you push the pin through should be facing you, as you face the car/wheel/brake disc.
Hopefully you will find that by shoving something into this hole, the pin will move away from you, inwards, towards the car... then just move it along until it comes out the back of the caliper housing. BE CAREFUL that the anti-rattle cage doesn't spring off unexpectedly + MAKE SURE you note which way round it goes.
The job itself, I think, won't be hard (otherwise I wouldn't be doing it). However, I did invest in a Haynes manual, which is very good and covers this in detail.
Please note that I've only tried to explain how these pins get removed, not the whole process. I personally found that the big bolts which secure the caliper in place are the pigs to deal with. The nearside wasn't too bad but the offside, cos of the direction you have to turn the bolts through, was awful... and I nearly gave up cos I just COULDN'T get the lower bolt to budge (I did in the end but i was honestly at that one bolt for an hour).
Finally, in case the pad retaining pins are rusted-in, all I can suggest is VERY CAREFUL use of WD40/penetrating oil + trying to rotate the pin (as I mentioned earlier) + something like a nail (suitably thick), which can fit into the hole that the pin resides in and then tap the nail with a hammer, so that the pin gets knocked backwards.
Hope this helps a bit.
Cheers,
Gary
SOURCE: peugeot 406 1996 (p reg) speedo working intermitantly
Most likely to be the Bitron speedo interface behind the glove box, I replaced all the diodes, capacitors and both chips on mine (electronic expert), though you could have dry joints on the back of the dash or the road speed sensor on the back of the gearbox.
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