I tried setting the idling with by the small bolt on the throttle and it makes no difference. When rearranging the air pipes i can get it to idle on 800 rpms but the it over fuels and smells rich. i now have the vacuum pit that is connected to the throttle and the ABS pipe in to each other at least is not over fueling but is still on 2000rpms. Any advice?
The idle on the 2.6 is controlled by the computer via the Idle Control Valve.
It is very common for the 2.6 to loosen the bolts (x2) holding the ICV in place on the side of the throttle body (left hand side when looking from the front - small black cylindrical motor looking thing). This allows extra unchecked air to go through increasing idle and also making it rough.
Tightening the bolts (4mm Allen key from memory) and replacing if missing, using Loctite preferably, will fix the ICV.
the adjustment bolt on the cable plate at the top of the throttle body is just the cable/butterfly stop. You should put it back where you found it. Same with the vacuum and fuel hoses (checking for vacuum leaks obviously).
The only other thing that's likely to cause excessive idle is a major leak in the inlet manifold gasket. Unlikely, but check if other items (above) fail to provide a cure by spraying some WD40 around the gasket area - idle will pick up if there's a leak.
Try to block all vacuum pipepes and see if the idling comes down there if its still high take a container full of water like a 2ltr the n start the car and pour the water note throttle body you may have throttling bushes worn out they will suck in the water and temporary reduce idling thats how you diagnose the vacuum leakage
SOURCE: 2001 audi a4 1.9tdi small turbo/vacuum pipes mixed up
First, take it back and give them a chance to correct there repair abilities or lack of knowledge. Hopefully they will not want to charge you. Find a good repair facility before you need one.
SOURCE: 2004 Audi A3 2.0 TDI - when warm and allowed to
dual mass fly wheel, sounds stupid but try it. just done it on mine.
sam
SOURCE: hi new to this site
Very difficult to say on this one thats for sure ,well firstly buying the part on E bay doesnt mean a lot to me because i know lots of people in the motor game flog bits on their where they have tried to repair a vehicle and ordered parts and then fitted them and not cured the problem so they put them on this site ,ok they are new electrical parts that are not returnable ,but they swop a bit or damage then electrically when trying to cure the fault .So new part from dealer in a sealed box as same thing happens in the dealers as well with light fingered mechanics or storeman swopping bits willy nilly .best advice is park an identical car next to this one and swop bits till you cure it .or change both components the throtte pedal end and the pump end .right must fly my friends flight cancelled due to snow in the uk .if you need anything else please reply to this post
SOURCE: audi a3 1.8 non turbo
A rough idle can be due to poor timing./fuel tuning.So an examination of the spark plug will give the indication of the firing of all the cylinders with which we can confirm . If the spark plugs are burnt then the fuel mixture is good but if there is a black soot or soggy smear then the fuel settings are high or the spark intensity is low.
So you need to check on the fuel pressure-- have the pump calibrated .
Check the spark intensity , it must be good or the HT coils or the electronic ignition is faulty as the trigger can be low. Check also the timing. it is good to have the job done at the service outlet.
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