Mazda clutch damaged driveshaft - 1989 Mazda 626

hydraulic clutch system
if the clutch master cylinder is full of brake fluid
master or slave is by passing

shift linkage out of adjustment
worn clutch or pressure plate damaged

You posted here meaning you have access to the internet, search YouTube and you should find a video showing you step by step. Or search for a forum for that vehicle and see if maybe the members have done it and provide great details. Lots of great info to be found that way.

it could very well be a clutch slipping, make sure you check to be sure it doesnt have a driveshaft joint broken first

lost of oil on master or sleeve cylinder of your clutch full up and bleed the system .2nd one of your seals worn out or cylinder wall damage .

if there is some one in your area that balances driveshafts they can change just the bearing for you

you need to find a shop then, most shops will not install customers parts, or if they do, no warranty, what so ever. you should, also at this time replace the clutch master cylinder. If you try this yourself I'm afarid you may either 1.hurt yourself,$$$ 2 break something$$$, 3 not get it together right and damage something $$$$$ 4.damage it and be without a truck for a week $$$ having it repiared properly will seem like a bargain if anything happens.

If the rattle is low it must be a minor issue. but if its high contact your service dealer.

What do you mean "rooted" ?
Generally if a manual transmission is stuck in gear it points to one or several of 6 possibilities ( barring any damage to hard parts such as gears or shafts.)
1: Damaged shift linkage.
2: Worn clutch.
3: Faulty clutch slave cylinder.
4: Damaged fork assembly.
5: Damaged synchronizers.
6: Bad throwout bearing.

Be prepared for sticker shock when pricing repairs or parts !
Mazdas are not cheap to buy parts for or to work on.
( thats why I will never own one )

NO - Here are the steps involved....

Raise the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Drain the lubricant from the transaxle.

1. Remove the front wheels and splash pan. Raise the tab on the wheel hub locknut, and then have someone apply the brakes as you loosen the nut.
2. Remove the tow nuts, bushings, and washers, then disconnect the stabilizer bar from the steering knuckle.
3. Remove the clinch bolts and nuts, then pry the lower control arm downward in order to separate the steering knuckle and lower ball joint. Be careful not to damage the ball joint dust cover.

On the left side:

1. Insert a lever (for automatic transaxles, you'll have to use a chisel) between the driveshaft and transaxle case (don't go in too for, or you will damage the seal). Tap the end of the pry bar or chisel lightly to pull the shaft out of the case just until it unlocks.

1. Remove the driveshaft locknut from the center of the brake rotor. Pull the front hub outward and toward the rear. Disconnect the driveshaft from the wheel hub. If necessary, use a puller. Then, pull the driveshaft straight out of the transaxle, supporting the joint on the transaxle side to prevent damage to the seal. Seal the transaxle opening with a clean rag.

On the right side:

1. Insert a lever between the joint shaft and driveshaft, then gently tap on the outer end of the lever to separate the two shafts.

1. Remove the driveshaft locknut, then pull the front hub outward and toward the rear. Disconnect the driveshaft from the front hub. If necessary, use a puller. Then, disconnect the driveshaft from the cross-shaft completely.
   
2. If it is necessary to remove the cross-shaft, remove the cross-shaft mounting bracket bolts, then remove the shaft and bracket as an assembly, being careful not to disturb the position of differential gears. Cover the opening in the differential case with a clean rag.

1. Installation is the reverse of removal, but note these points:

1. Check the transaxle oil seal for damage and replace it if necessary.
2. Replace the clips at the inner ends of the driveshaft or cross-shaft where they are locked into the differential gears in the transaxle.
3. Install the shafts into the transaxle carefully to avoid damage to the oil seal. Push the joint in on the differential side. Check the differential gears for alignment before attempting to install the shafts. If they are not aligned, turn them with your finger, as necessary.
4. After installation, pull the hub forward to make sure the driveshaft remains locked in the transaxle.
5. Install a new locknut onto the outer end of the driveshaft, adjusting wheel bearings as described in . Crimp the tabs over after they are aligned with the groove in the driveshaft.
6. Tighten the stabilizer bar link nut until 1 in. (25mm) of thread is exposed.
7. Torque the lower control arm-to-ball joint nut and bolt to 32-40 ft. lbs. (43-54 Nm).
8. Torque the control link for the lower arm and stabilizer bar to 9-13 ft. lbs. (12-18 Nm); except for the 1988-89 626s and MX-6s on which it should be 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
9. Refill the differential with fresh fluid meeting proper specifications.

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First check to see if the driveshafts are turning, they are the things that stick out either side of the gearbox. start engine put car in gear. and let the clutch up, if you have no drive, open the bonnet and see if the gearbox end of the driveshaft or the wheel end of the driveshaft is moving. if one or the other is (remember to look both sides of the gearbox 2 driveshafts) you have a driveshaft or hub fault. If all is well and nothing is loose or moving the problem is either clutch or internal to the gearbox. this will require removale of the gearbox. approx 5 hours labour remove and refit plus parts required on inspection.