At the end of August my ex and I had gotten into a fight, he got under my hood and yanked my spark plug wires and busted two of them, then the windsheild. since then I have gotten a new windshield and replaced the spark plug wires. I know the firing order is right because once I replaced the plugs the car started right up. It idled fine and I let it idle for a good 15-20 minutes since the car sat so long without being started. I went to drive it to the store because it was low on gas but when I put it in gear and hit the gas it acted like it was going to run out of gas. once it was accelerating though it acted fine. Got to the gas station abd turned the car off, put gas in it and it has not started since. I did replace the fuel pump and the spark plugs themselves and it acts like it wants to fire but seems not to be getting any fuel which is weird because when I pulled the fuel hose from my fuel rail and started the car fuel came flowing out so I know its getting fuel. Any ideas on what could be the problem???? checked the timing belt and distributor as well, all seems good just will not fire up though it acts like it if I hold the gas pedal all the way down while trying to start just never gets the "umph" to actually fire up all the way. And the car ran fine with no problems before the wires were ripped out so I am very confused as to why its not now.
Check for spark at the sparkplug, to see if everything in the dist. is working right. And check the injector harness for something being pulled loose when the wires were jerked out.
SOURCE: 95 GMC Jimmy 4.3l W vin rough idle
My problem was solved when I repaired my 4 wd activation dash switch. The switch was contacting on 2WD & 4HI at the same time. The front differential activation is vacuum activated possibly creating a tug of war that didn't actually engage it but drained off vacuum from the engine? A theory at best but stumbbled across it because I knew the switch wasn't working properly I repaired it and low and behold rough idle disappeared and all is good for 3 weeks running.
SOURCE: 2001 ford escort. engine turns over but will not
The engine needs three things to run, fuel, air and a spark at the right moment. Check the static timing of the motor, if those marks line up. You did not say you were getting any spark at the plugs. If you have spark, then try a little starting fuild into the intake while turning it over. If you have fuel delivery to the cylinders, the spark is coming at the right moment then it should be running. Any error codes set?
SOURCE: my suburban will start runs rough but dies when
Have the fuel pump checked for fuel pressure. Sounds like you got residual pressure but not sufficient running pressure.
SOURCE: This Spring my 89 toyota
The
gas is going to evaporate in the bowl, especially when engine is hot. Your
problem is not that but rather fuel supply because the fuel in bowl should
be quickly replaced on startup. Check fuel pump, filter and maybe for a a
restriction or vacuum leak on suction side of fuel line slowing the draw
of fuel from tank. ---------- Possibly
there's a needle valve in the bottom of the bowl? A worn valve would
allow the gas to leak into the manifold. The gas should be visible in the
manifold. ---------- Also
it sounds like the accelerator pump is not working properly. It would be
a good time to get a carb kit and overhaul the carb. Be sure to clean the
passages and blow them out with compressed air. -------- A
bad accelerator pump diaphram or the accelerator pump jet plugged up as
the problem. ------- Also
check the the float gas level. ---------- Try
blowing through the accel pump passages with carb cleaner, the larger of the
two holes goes to the float chamber And the smaller hole (on the
left side) .Blow through the carb and out into the primary venturi.
If there's a check valve it should allow pressure to go through towards
the The
stiff diaphragm may depress and make a pump okay but the light spring may
not have holes. ------- Remove the accelerator pump diaphragm and blow through the
little hole. attach the little tube and squirt it through the little hole
and see where it comes out. Do those on top of the carb body too and see
where they go.Blow air through the atmospheric vent
holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses
or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that
jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers
with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean each Venturi (main carb
bore). --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
venturi.-----
enough oomph to return it back to position, if all the way .Find
a NAPA
and get THEIR aerosol carb cleaner, two bucks. Best cleaner. Try
from the top of the carb the same cleaning method on all the
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My best guess is that with it standing idle for a long period something is stuck/ sticking in the fuel management system, valve, sensor, flap, etcSee if you bag a schematic of the fuel system and a little help from someone who may know where a squirt of WD40 might do the trick?You say you checked the t/belt but are all the parts turning when cranking.
yeah we pulled back the cover and it was turning when you cranked the engine. I dunno where to first look to see if something was stuck....and theres not an auto place close enough to tow the car to have a mechanic take a look the nearest one to me is 20 miles away
The other thing is we did put starting fluid in and no start....we also just tried the traditional pop the clutch method and nothing not even a budge with the car
Could it be my distributor? I know it was replaced a few months before I got the car like 2 or 3 it was put in brand new....but I never tried to crank the car till the wires were put in
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