Even when the car is warm the heat blows cold when sitting idle.
See my posted question under 2001 Mercury Villager: "HEAT BLOWS COLD WHEN CAR IS IDLING" I got an answer from chuck943 about air pockets and it was very helpful.
1.maybe your thermostat is no opening or closing.
2. not enough Ant-Freeze
3. Low on water
With more details on the engine i may be able to help you more. for example what is the temp reading after it idles awhile or does it blow warmewr when driving ?
Only when it is sitting does the temp goes up in normal range and blow hot, when I go it goes back down and blows cool again.
×
3,340 views
Usually answered in minutes!
My heater blows cold air unless I'm accelerating. If on the interstate and not in traffic it stays hot and will burn you out. The anti freeze/water level is full. If the car were started, sat running for awhile, the heater would still be blowing cold air. If you were to leave it in park and race the engine, or start to drive, the heater would blow hot air. Defrosting the windshield can be a bear. Thanks for any information. mGby, Roger
My 2000 Olds Intrigue(3.5L, 142,000 miles) does the same thing except the coolant reservoir keeps going low, the low coolant light comes on and there are no apparent leaks. There is a sound coming from the heater core as if it has air bubbles in it. Keep putting coolant in the reservoir but it keeps going low! Previous owner stated that he had the system flushed. He will not return my calls to answer my questions. (Is it a wonder?) Maybe the system was improperly flushed and refilled? Or does it have the same issue as the 3.4L of the grand am that has an intake gasket problem? Help!
I have a 2001 Mercury Villager and this is happening to me as well. I took it to my mechanic and on the way there the heat stopped working all together. He put in a new water pump and timing belt and thermostat. He also flushed the radiator. It still blows cold when stopped but blows hot when driving. I am suppose to take it back to him today but would like to know what the heck is causing this before I go.
Found a leak at lower radiator hose and radiator tank. Have not yet ruled out an additional leak at the front intake manifold area or head gasket. loss of coolant creates a "gap", or air in the entire system and it has to "catch up"(draw more coolant from the plastic tank and force it through the radiator, engine block, heater core, and through the small return line to the plastic tank, and i assume air stays in until cap is removed?). This in return causes the heater to blow cold, a bubbling noise in the heater core when rpm's are increased, and engine temperature to rise and into the hot range while driving on the highway. The cooling systems in these cars seem to be intolerant to air in the system or voids of coolant. If I fill the plastic tank all the way to the top, let the car run with the cap off until it gets hot, and put the cap on, i can drive it on the highway with no problems. that is, until the coolant leaks out to the point that the plastic tank is low. seems to leak the most after car has been shut off and left sit overnight. I am ready to drive this car to the scrap yard. very complicated to replace intake/head gaskets without proper tools and knowledge. very expensive to have a mechanic or gm dealer do the repairs. it's just really not worth the time, money, or headache. GM had good intentions with the 3.5L Olds. A very powerful engine, but not very reliable. They just didn't perfect it like they did their other engines.
HEATER BLOWS COLD AT LOW RPM BUT HEATS GREAT AT HIGHER RPMS
×