I have the defroster on 90% of the time, the is just that humid. I tried to keep it off the last few days but I still see that water. Also it has rained fairly regularly every day and very hard.
My first guess would be that the heater core is bad, usually a very hard job to replace.
SOURCE: Car won't start and floods
Locate your vehicle's computer connector (ALDL), most are on the lower driver's side. In some vehicles you might need to look around a little, on the passenger's side, and around the center console under a plastic cover. For more information, check your owner's manual. This device gathers information that was stored in your carsECM. This information ortrouble code can inform you the system or sensor that is malfunctioning. Look up the code in our diagnostic trouble code chart. After repairs have been made use the code scanner to clear trouble codes and recheck system.
B. Testing Fuel Pressure. Test for proper fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Connect the gauge to the test port on the fuel rail. Fuel pressure reading's very depending on the system your in our vehicle, but most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port injection systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. To find out your vehicle system fuel pressure consult arepair manual. If little fuel pressure is present the fuel pump needs to be replaced.
C. Test for Weak Ignition Spark. A weak ignition system can be a sign of a failing ignition component. Remove spark plug wire and insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, attach spark plug to engine ground then crank engine. You should observe blue spark between spark plug gap. If a yellow spark is observed, your ignition coil is weak and needs to be replaced. If your spark is not consistent you may need a ignition module.
D. Inspect the Main ECM Relay. If the ECM relay fails it will shut down the engine management system. This relay carries high amperage and is prone to failure. To test install new relay then test drive to recheck symptoms.
E. Testing the Ignition Switch. This test requires a electronic test light. When vehicle dies test the power side (+) of your ignition coil with the key on, the test light should illuminate. If your test light is not lighting suspect your ignition switch or ignition relay. To trouble shoot this condition you will needwiring schematic for your car.
SOURCE: Gas smell with Subura Legacy
there is a recall on some of the fuel lines under the hood, they get old and leak.
SOURCE: 1991 subaru legacy. The car would not start. I
You should have a fuse & a relay. Check # 11 fuse it should be 15 amp.& may be for your fuel pump. Do you have owners manual by chance, or does cover of fuses have label?
SOURCE: subaru legacy/liberty 2.2eng lacks power under load and cuts out
There are two common issues with the 2.2... Both relate to valve guides. If you're confident that the sensors and controls are functioning well. Knock sensor? it doesn't hurt to pull it clean its mounting surfaces and bolt before reinstalling it if you're certain that it's good - you may be retarding timing significantly if there's an errant signal there. This would be noticeable loss of power, but not "cut-outs" as in your presentation.
You may be looking at a hanging exhaust valve. The valves sometimes will 'hang' and not close as anticipated leaving you with a vicious stumble (a 4-cyl running on 3-cyl) two "causes", if you will.. The valves may just hang in the guide (sticky & tight from build-up) or the guide itself may be sliding in the head (unfortunately, a few of the 2.2's of this period do have this issue).
If you're interested in the diagnosis, you can drop the exhaust manifold at the head you can look at & compare how far the exhaust guides are protruding from the head - all of the guides should "sitck out" from above the exhaust valve the same amount -- if you have a loose guide they tend to be "out" a bit further -- The thinking on this for your symptom is that the guide will push out with the valve opening and NOT return far enough to allow the exhaust valve to fully close - the result is a loss of compression at various times/conditions that is hard to track down. The "fix" would be to R&R the offending head to press a new over-sized guide.
The other sticky valve issue is also not too uncommon, the diagnosis is less straight forward - in that you'd need to watch vacuum, power, and DTC data at the time that the this power issue occurs. Typically, I'd recommend going with a strong and safe engine-oil flush and some sort of strong induction/injection cleaning to try to loosen and remove any build-ups on the valves. Many people with the 2.2 have switched into Synthetic engine oils for this reason... Some discussioin have included a few of the "snake-oil" additives for use after the flush (the very thin "metal penetrating" kind of snake-oils get good comments in a lot of the discussions) - It's your vehicle, I find the flush and regular good oil changes can clear-up the 2.2's sticky valve issues without wondering what I've put into my crankcase.
- best of luck
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