About a month ago it started jerking while driving down the road. Now I can only drive about 1/4 mile before transmission disengages, I turn van off wait a few mins then its fine for another 1/4 mile or so....what's the problem
Hello The
engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only
for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the
transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in
most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory
of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as
the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done
is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system
for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for
engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained
technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then
based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the
correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer
replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other
basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with
the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine.
The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear
engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related
problems.
SOURCE: 1995 chevy g30 van
If vehicle was left outside or in an unheated garage, there is a strong possibility that condensation has contaminated your fuel. Easiest way to check is to remove fuel filter and pour contents into a glass jar. If you see two different layers of liquid in the jar, the bottom part is water. Replace with new filter and drop the tank. Remove sending unit. pour contents into a large container and clean out inside with clean dry rags. Remember, fuel is dangerous to work with and fumes travel pretty far on the ground. So, no open flames electrical stuff, cigarettes etc for a good perimeter around work area. Generally, you can re-use top 3/4 of fuel you removed by syphon. Don't use remainder in your vehicle. Part can be used for lawnmower etc as long as you only take the part above the water line.
SOURCE: overheating
If you are adding anti-freeze every time this happens, you are still loosing coolant some were. I assume there are no puddles on the garage floor or where you park the van? Check the oil dipstick and make sure the oil is not a "milky"color. Check the passenger side carpet for wetness, you may have to pull it back.
If all of that is OK, you are still burning the coolant by way of the intake gasket or head gasket.
Good luck, let me know.
Regards,
SOURCE: 96 4.3L Vortec S-10 Blazer died while driving
I am tired of people getting the run around on these engines, and the "Like." This post will be repeatedly posted threw out the world wide web until It ranks number 1 in the google search list when a user googles 4.3 dies, or rough idles etc... For me, "There is absolutely No information on this when the problem occurred for me!." For example, We would not search for "the year the valve covers changed on vortecs" when we keep getting thin ones from a vortec thrown at use. As the Idiots "Humans" we are we would simply search for , "Flat valve cover gasket." In return we would get nowhere.
After we learn the problem, "After" we can then properly search google for the solution. For example the proper term would be, "What year did the vortec valve covers change in?" Walaa. Before hand we was googling for "Flat vortec gaskets."
My point, "You can not google for a solution if you have not already solved the problem."
CHEVY DIES at stop sighns, red lights,Redlights etc. If you are here reading this, Then it is because you have wound up here due to your engine stalling or not starting properly. You googled for a solution and here are some answeres. "Answeres I didn't have" when I had the problem.
These are keywords used to get you here when you googled your problem, Please Excuse them.
Chevy 4.3 vortec Die Died Stop Flud smoke Blue Black White Spark Missfire Code Error 15 43 45 14 OBD Lop Lope Loping Lopeing Surge Surging Surgeing Knock sensor senser light engine problems fault starting heat heating crank crunk run running viberation viberate stall hesitates hesitate fuel filter pump line vacuum vacume oil astro s10 sonoma chevy plug sparkplug distributor rotor button pop cold hot water intake carb EGR valve idle idler cam sputters misses leak hose. when sometimes
will not start
does not start
cant start can't start can not start will not start wont start want start problems starting idle problems.
Some 4.3's have 2 Coolent temperature sensors, Some only have 1. On the engines that contain 2 sensers, One is a Temperature Senser and the other a Temperature Switch.
The Temperature switch Is an open circuit, It closes at a high degree.
The Temperature Senser, It can Advance Timing, De-advance timing, Control your Fuel to Air ratio and much more. 9 Times out of ten if your truck is stalling, its the temperature senser.
Which one is the Senser, which is the Switch? The temperature Switch, Which is the minor of the 2, It has one "Vertical Pin in the center of Plug Housing." It is used only for Plug guidence. The smaller *** close to the center *** is the connector ***. It is where the 1 wire makes contact.
The Temperature Senser, Rather than switch has 2 side by side Vertical Parallel Male Titts. It also has 2 wires.
Some engines Do not have a Temperature Switch, The switch on these are built into a temperature senser, and a switch is not needed.
These are the "Symptoms" of a faulty temperature Senser.
Surging
Loping
Sudden shut offs at stops
Transmissing jerking, Leight or violent.
Missing
Missfiring, Since the senser Does control Timing!
Fluiding, Wrong Fuel to air Ratio, The senser controls that to.
Rings for your Vortec. If you can't find the rings you're lookinf for, Chances are " PERFECT CIRCLE " is the only Brand ring you will be able to find without paying the dealer price. Which Perfect circuit runs around 60 to 70 bucks for the hard to find rings that you thought was impossible to find.
(PVC valve can cause Smoking." And rough idle as well. But loping is mostly due to temp senser.
Vortecs have very few sensors. If any of them go out the BRAIN is "PROGRAMED" to cause a ton of trouble. They are Designed to cause you to spend your money.
Temp Senser, Code 15, Not all BAD temp sensers Shoot a code, Sometimes these Bad sensers Do go under the radar and the error anylizing doesn't work, and give code.
You can not test a Temp senser with an ohm meter, Because at different temps you get a different reading. If you suspect this type of problem make the senser number 1 on your list to replace.
The part is 12 bucks at autozone. $12.00 and you should not pay no more than 35 dollars to have it put on are you are getting ripped off very very very badly, Since that is "More than what its worth" to have it installed.
The vortecs with No temp Switch will have the senser located in the driver or passenger Head. Engines with switch sensers will have the switch on the head, and the senser by the Thermostat duck goose neck, so a hose may have to be removed along with a throttle cable and top breather.
78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21
19 19 49
vin
ECU
30 Block
code
Spider leaks due to lines or regulator, where regulator is not part of the spider and can be removed, regulator can be purches on the internet threw search engines for 50 bucks. Right clean intake equals bad regulator left equals bad supplie lines.
Supplie lines and clamps can be purchease under 3 dollars, hoses made for gasoline. Ports leak into cylinders.
Some engines have abnormal cylinder locations such as 135 or 153 and 642 or 246. Accorrding to the book of the cylinder locations mines are different. This is abnormal but those engines are out there.
If you're having problems with firing, Cross 2 and 6, then 3 and 5. Doing this will reveal the right locations over time. This can leave you scratchign your head when all you're finding is 1 diagram thats not for your engine.
"The Poppet Valves DO NOT leak inside the intake." What Idiot ever started that. They leak inside the HEADS. The Regulator and Supplie lines leak inside the intake. Rarely do you need a entire "Spider."
Caution, Spider lines are Fragile and will break like glass. Do not bend them any.
How to install Supplie line hoses to the spider. Insert the washers First, Then insert the feed lines. DO NOT insert the supplie lines if they contain a washer already on them, They will not fit. You must first Push the washers Inside the spider, Then the feed lines will go into the spider, and as this happens the washers will slide up onto the lines, This is how it is done. User a lube, Gas or PB blaster Oil or whatever.
IF you run into the store, come back out and your engine fails to start, It's probably your Senser if you can't keep it running. If you manage but it stinks, its probably your spiter. You can also Hear gas leaks inside intake. Cap can be removed to see inside intake, Intake shouldn't be too clean which would indicate gas cleaning.
SOURCE: was driving my 1999 chevy
You are describing a slow coolant leak and the resultant no heat and blockoverheating symptoms. The no heat is because there is insufficient coolant to cycle through the heater core, and the chuggin you describe is the engine indicating serious overheating.
With engine cold, you must add water--not anti-freeze--to the radiator itself, until it reaches the top of the radiator, then start the engine. If you do not have a radiator cap in addition to the overflow bottle (some vehicles don't), you must still add water to the radiator, even if you have to bypass the overflow bottle hose to do it. Add water until no more will go into the radiator. Start engine, let idle until operating temperature is reached. Thermostat should open and a good bit of the water will "sink" into the depth of the radiator. If you have no radiator cap, observe the temperature guage. When it reaches normal operating temp, when the thermostat opens, the temp will drop briefly at first, and you will notice warm air from the heater/defroster.
Once engine is warm and known to be full of water, seal radiator cap and/or system, and let idle for 30 minutes. Use this time to locate the "mystery leak." They can be very hard to find, and some won't leak until after the engine is turned off. During this idle period, observe the vehicle exhaust from the tailpipe as well as looking for actual water leaks: sometimes a bad head gasket can be diagnosed this way; if the exhaust is white and thick like steam, and smells like anit-freeze, you have a more serious problem. It is possible that after the repeated overheating cycles you have endured you may now have both a "mystery leak" and a blown head gasket.
Once leak is located, your next step is to let engine cool completely, drain the water, fix the leak, and then and only then add new antifreeze of the proper rating and ratio recommended by Chevy for your vehicle.
Anytime you drain a cooling system and refill it, it is necessary to check the overflow bottle at least 3 times in the first week after repair to ensure that you have the proper coolant level, and have not either missed another leak or not correctly repaired one. You MUST check it before you drive the vehicle the second time after the first repair attempt because it is normal to need to add more coolant than you added initially after the repair because of air trapped in the cooling system that will only be expelled after the first start/stop heating cycle. If after 1 week of daily normal driving you have only added a little more coolant once, and there are no more problems, you can be very comfortable that you have fixed your car.
Testimonial: "THANK YOU!!! Found the leak got it fixed all is running fine.."
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