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Kevin Mills Posted on Sep 26, 2012

How do i remove the front drive shafts on a 97 mazda b2600 4wd to replace the cv boots?

Every thing stripped down, just at the point of removing the drive shafts, replacing tie rods, idler arm,ball joints & cv boots.

  • Kevin Mills Sep 29, 2012

    Thanks for all the help, problem sorted! Cheers guys.

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1 Answer

A

Anonymous

When you did the ball joints you should have pulled the axles

I would guess that you know the axle nut has to come off & that
in most cases you break the bottom ball joint loose, so you can
get the axle out of the steering knuckle

So I will guess you can't get the axle out of the trans

You use a long pry par,3 foot or more & put the end against
a piece of wood, so as not to pry on the aluminum trans case

Then you pop it out with the pry bar.
You don't pry on the axle ,you use the side of the pry bar
to bang it with the end against the wood

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5 Related Answers

junkman1249

Ricardo Loranca

  • 552 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 31, 2009

SOURCE: Replacing Ball Joints on 2001 Mazda B2500 (upper and lower)

its easier to get the whole control arm and the lower one has to be pressed in. it is not and easy job if you dont have the right tools checkout rockauto.com to look at the replacement parts and to get a price on them

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Anonymous

  • 15935 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 10, 2009

SOURCE: replace outer cv boot mazda 323 1985

NO - Here are the steps involved....

Raise the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Drain the lubricant from the transaxle.

  1. Remove the front wheels and splash pan. Raise the tab on the wheel hub locknut, and then have someone apply the brakes as you loosen the nut.
  2. Remove the tow nuts, bushings, and washers, then disconnect the stabilizer bar from the steering knuckle.
  3. Remove the clinch bolts and nuts, then pry the lower control arm downward in order to separate the steering knuckle and lower ball joint. Be careful not to damage the ball joint dust cover.

On the left side:
  1. Insert a lever (for automatic transaxles, you'll have to use a chisel) between the driveshaft and transaxle case (don't go in too for, or you will damage the seal). Tap the end of the pry bar or chisel lightly to pull the shaft out of the case just until it unlocks.
  1. Remove the driveshaft locknut from the center of the brake rotor. Pull the front hub outward and toward the rear. Disconnect the driveshaft from the wheel hub. If necessary, use a puller. Then, pull the driveshaft straight out of the transaxle, supporting the joint on the transaxle side to prevent damage to the seal. Seal the transaxle opening with a clean rag.

On the right side:
  1. Insert a lever between the joint shaft and driveshaft, then gently tap on the outer end of the lever to separate the two shafts.
  1. Remove the driveshaft locknut, then pull the front hub outward and toward the rear. Disconnect the driveshaft from the front hub. If necessary, use a puller. Then, disconnect the driveshaft from the cross-shaft completely.
  2. If it is necessary to remove the cross-shaft, remove the cross-shaft mounting bracket bolts, then remove the shaft and bracket as an assembly, being careful not to disturb the position of differential gears. Cover the opening in the differential case with a clean rag.
    1. Installation is the reverse of removal, but note these points:
    1. Check the transaxle oil seal for damage and replace it if necessary.
    2. Replace the clips at the inner ends of the driveshaft or cross-shaft where they are locked into the differential gears in the transaxle.
    3. Install the shafts into the transaxle carefully to avoid damage to the oil seal. Push the joint in on the differential side. Check the differential gears for alignment before attempting to install the shafts. If they are not aligned, turn them with your finger, as necessary.
    4. After installation, pull the hub forward to make sure the driveshaft remains locked in the transaxle.
    5. Install a new locknut onto the outer end of the driveshaft, adjusting wheel bearings as described in . Crimp the tabs over after they are aligned with the groove in the driveshaft.
    6. Tighten the stabilizer bar link nut until 1 in. (25mm) of thread is exposed.
    7. Torque the lower control arm-to-ball joint nut and bolt to 32-40 ft. lbs. (43-54 Nm).
    8. Torque the control link for the lower arm and stabilizer bar to 9-13 ft. lbs. (12-18 Nm); except for the 1988-89 626s and MX-6s on which it should be 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
    9. Refill the differential with fresh fluid meeting proper specifications.
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    Anonymous

    • 155 Answers
    • Posted on Jun 08, 2009

    SOURCE: Im trying to replace the alternator on a 1999 Mazda 626

    Yes, I experienced the same thing with mine... you have to losen the 2 motor mounts on that side and lift the motor up about 3 ". I worked at a garage so I had access to an engine hoist. Try using a jack from underneath. Nice engineering from Mazda!!!

    badealer888

    Stan Cather

    • 414 Answers
    • Posted on Jun 18, 2009

    SOURCE: I am trying to replace

    Justa short pry bar. get the tip of the bar behind the end of the joint.and "pop" it out.

    Anonymous

    • 5 Answers
    • Posted on Aug 09, 2009

    SOURCE: how do i remove the lower ball joint on a mazda

    Big hammer and a fork made for such a job. No fork to barrow? use a large flat head screw driver and be patient. Remove the tire. Jack the truck up and use jack stands. Use parking brake. The work may take a few hours. getting the new ones on are easier

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