How to bleed coolant system bmw 118i 2007?

Question edited for clarity.

Everything here is FREE Jesse! Here is a tip I wrote. It is called burping the cooling system. Basically, you just take the radiator cap off, turn the heating on full and keep topping the radiator up as the temperature comes up to normal. It must be done from the radiator cap and not the expansion tank. There are lots of videos on YouTube.

https://www.fixya.com/cars/r26222313-engine_overheating_even_after_changed

These are videos specific to your vehicle.

https://www.google.com/search?q=buick+lacrosse+replace+coolant

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I think you can use a BMW diagnostic tool,like BMW ICOM A2, Compared with BMW ICOM,It add more new special features, so that can help you find the problem and solve it.

to bleed the cooling system on a vs supercharged statesman .

Makes sure you have coolant in the radiator and over flow botthe.

turn the heater to the on position and on high.

make sure you have plenty more coolant close by.

with the radiator cap off and the engine idling .

now top coolant up and place radiator cap on.

increase idle revs so the system pressurises.

now the system is warm and pressure .

you can open the bleeder 1 by 1 starting at the highest point.

1st couple of times you open the system you will get a lot of air ,you can stop bleeding this nipple once there is a good stream of coolant flowing.

do the same with other nipples as there is 3 bleeders in total.

Once all air is out do not open radiator cap again top coolant up in overflow bottle only.

double check coolant level again when its cold ..

Hi Robert, No it is not normal for the coolant level to drop at any time. The BMW has a system which must be bled to free it of all air. The bleed screw is situated on the radiator and has a screw driver slot. Open the bleed screw and replace the coolant with the recommended coolant and then finish topping up with water until all bubbles have cleared from the system. Observe the level and if it drops again have a pressure test carried out on the system as if the level drops again, there must be a leakage. Likely places are hoses, and the water pump. If it is the water pump, the leakage may only be evident during engine operation, unless the leakage is severe in which case you will notice coolant dripping. Regards John

Just open it up with the engine running. Then watch until coolant starts to come out and then top off the system after it cools down, make sure the coolant bottle is full on shut down..

Chrysler & Jeep Cooling System & HVAC Service: Every car make has its quirks, and Chrysler and Jeep vehicles are no exception. In researching this article, we found several examples of heater problems in these vehicles that seem to be fairly common.

On 2001 and 2002 Sebring Sedan, Sebring Convertible and Stratus Sedan, plus 1993 to 2002 Chrysler Concorde, LHS, New Yorker and 300M, Eagle Vision and Dodge Intrepid models with V6 engines, customers may complain their engine is overheating, or the heater is putting out little or no heat.

Chrysler Technical Service Bulletin 07-002-02 says the problem can be caused by a low coolant level in the cooling system. On these vehicles, air trapped inside the cooling system can displace coolant when the system is refilled. The radiator and coolant reservoir may appear to be full, but there still may be air inside the heater core and heater hoses. This will create a low coolant level that may lead to overheating and low heater output. The bulletin provides a special fill procedure to eliminate the trapped air so the cooling system can be completely filled.

The procedure goes as follows:
1. Obtain Chrysler special tool 8195 (Cooling System Filling Aid). The tool looks like a funnel and attaches onto the filler neck (just as a regular pressure cap does). But it also has a hose clip.
2. Attach the filling aid tool to the cooling system filler neck. Use the clip to pinch off the overflow hose attached to the fill neck. Attach a 4-6' long 1/4" ID clear hose to the bleed valve. Put the end of the hose into a clean container (to prevent coolant from spilling onto the accessory drive belts).
3. Open the cooling system air bleed valve before any coolant is added. If you do not do this, air can remain trapped inside the system and you won't get all the air out. On 1998 and later models with 2.7L engine, the valve is located on the water outlet connector at the front of the engine. On 3.2L and 3.5L engines, the valve is located on the lower intake manifold, left of center under the upper intake manifold. On 1993-'97 models with 3.3L and 3.5L engines, the valve is on the thermostat housing.
4. Pour a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water into the large side of the filling aid funnel. Use distilled, deionized or reverse-osmosis purified water, not ordinary tap water, which may contain salt or minerals that could contaminate the coolant.
5. Slowly fill the cooling system through the large side of the filling aid. Watch the hose connected to the bleed valve. When a steady stream of coolant comes out of the hose, close the bleed valve and continue filling to the top of the filling aid.
6. On 1993-'97 models, place a small, clean container below the end of the overflow hose. Then remove the clip from the overflow hose. Any excess coolant in the filling aid will now drain into the overflow section of the coolant bottle or into the container.
7. On 1993-'97 models, remove the reservoir and recycle the excess coolant.
8. Remove the filling aid from the fill neck. Make sure the filler neck and cap are clean, then replace the pressure cap on the coolant bottle.

Note: 1998 and later coolant bottles have two chambers. Coolant will normally only be in the inboard (smaller) of the two. The outboard chamber is only to recover coolant in the event of an overheat and should normally be empty - except for the coolant drained from the filling aid. This coolant will be drawn back into the pressurized side of the cooling system over time.

Hope helps.

bad thermostat and coolant maybe low. when a engine gets to hot at certain boiling point it evaporates

the thermostat (on bmw replacement parts) have an arrow that has to be installed facing upward.if this was done correctly,to bleed the system usually there is a bleeder screw on or near the expansion tank(where you fill the coolant) and possibly on the thermostat housing. i would recommend opening both bleeders and keep filling the system with coolant closing the lower bleeder first and then allow the rest of the air purge from the other bleeder screw.make sure the coolant stays full and be patient you can't wait TOO long.

You most likely have air in the system. These things can be a royal pain to get the air bleed out of the system.
Look back next to the brake booster and you will see a rubber tube with a screw cap in the end of it(this is the heater bleed), also on the front of the intake area you will see a black tube with an allen sloted cap.
Remove the slotted cap and screw the screw cc on the rubber tube. Add coolant to the coolant jug allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill( the sloted cap near intake). The heater air bleed will remain open.Replace the engine fill cap.Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position.Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle. Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater. Set the heater temperature setting to 75° F and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes.Shut the engine off and allow to cool.After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark. This should have the air out of the system.