It has a new coil, distributer, cap, rotor, plugs, wires which I replaced about 2 months ago.
It began starting erractically last week. When I turn the key, the engine cranks but will not start. When I release the key, it would sometimes start with a puff of exhaust smoke from the air intake box under the hood.
The starter is new.
I had a map sensor trouble code and replaced the sensor. The trouble code cleared.
Now it doesn't want to start at all. Still getting exhaust fumes from the air intake. I pulled out the air filter and it has black specks of soot on it.
I checked fuel pressure to the rail and it is 40 psi.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Sounds like you have fire in the plugs with the sputtering you mention...
You could a compression test to see if you have a burned intake valve, but this is less likely than a timing problem in my opinion as intake valves run cooler and are less likely to burn than an exhaust valve.
If the timeing belt has slipped then you test the timing with a timing light and it will id the problem with the belt.
If the timing belt has not been changed in accordance with the maintenance schedule, then the belt may have jumped a notch and gotten the valve train out of sync with the pistons... to test this, without a timing light, take out all the plugs and charge you battery before you test for a spark sync with the compression stroke. You must distinguish the compression stroke sound from the exhaust stroke sound. Now when the compression stroke ie piston tops for plug firing on this stroke, it will compression stroke will be the loudest.... now on the compression stroke for the #1 cylinder, the plug should spark when you hear the loudest swishing sound, ie, when the piston is near the top dead center look for the spark to occur when the plug is on the wire and grounded to the block or frame... If it sparks slightly before tdc that is OK, but if its firing differently than on the compression stroke peak, then most likely you will have to get a new timing belt and retime the camshaft at the same time.
Also, if you could place somthing over the #1 plug hole while you look for the spark, that would also be a good indicator of when it should spark because the comprssion will blow the obstruction off the plug hole. I don't think you can put your finger or thumb over it but if you had a broomstick, it may work equally well.
Once you isolat a possible timing problem, you must of course face that procedure or take it a shop.
good luck
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210k miles, no compression test.
Just tried another main relay. Still nothing.
Now it won't start at all. It turns over fine, but wont fire. When I turn the key from start to radio, it bumps (coughs).
Turned out to be the ignition Control module inside the distributer. I took the whole distributer back to Advance Auto and got another remanufactored one. Hope this one lasts longer! What would cause this? Cheaply rebuilt distributer or something causing it to burn out?
How many miles and have you had a compression test?
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