Question about 1998 Isuzu Trooper
Pulled the 2 harness connectors off of fuel pump and with ignition turned on checked for power and the one had power but the other connector didnt have any. I checked up front in the engine compartment and checked the fuse that said fuel pump and fuse is good but when I check the connector that the fuse goes into that has no power. I also tried swapping the relay for fuse pump with a matching relay and still get no power to that fuse. Is there a kill switch or something that I can look for to see why that fuse has no power going to it? Also the old pump worked before I took it off the problem was the lines going into it rusted off and dont know if this matters but the gas gauge said no gas with key turned on in new tank so I hooked the connector that went to the float sensor onto the float sensor that i took out of the old tank and then it said it was full.
Http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html here check out wiring diagram . enter vehicle info . year , make , model , engine size . Under system click on engine ,then subsystem click on fuel controls. then hit the search button , click on the blue link . second diagram is fuel control . I f you look at the diagram two more fuse . PCM fuse 30 amp. an another 80amp . these supply B+ to the fuel pump an PCM main relay ! The fuel pump relay is turned on by the PCM ..
Posted on Mar 13, 2017
No engine stated.
details are based on that..
so is it still the old pump there,
this is very simple
using a volt meter. (the pump has 2 wires, measure across those)
back probe that connector to the pump. 2 pins.
12vdc cranked, if you have 12vdc cranked
but fuel pressure is 0 the pump is gone
no pump runs on 0v, or 6v, its 12vdc there,
i can not understand those fues tests
if the voltage fails to the pump it can be
the power wire or ground wire failing .
do all tests connected, or the readings will be useless.
connected is live testing, under full real conditions
and win. every time.
if ground is tested and rises to 12vdc cranked, ground is bad.
only Ohms laws here,a simple equation.
not sure why your float fails. my guess its bad.
and easy test using ohms, disconnected.
that is another problem.
ill look at your fuse, pretend V6 engine.
the service manual shows
f10 fuse is fuel pump
12vdc both side cranking is a GOOD FUSE.
note all words above.
F10 gets all power from pump relay,
so if you dont crank the relay can be off line
an F10 will be dead.
(the schematic is clear)
here is a facts on all cars, next (pure software in PCM )
see? and varies by year, engine, and even ECU upgrades
so a SAVVY mech always cranks to do tests.
that means its a 2 man job. sorry but that is a reality of working any car until you learn what yours does.
warning have a care here that changes rule 1 to 2, below 20F out door temps, (fun no?)
crank and measure like this.
the pump has 2 wires, red hot, black ground
meter across, pins 1 to2, red back is 12vdc cranked
meter black tests lead (volts) to body perfect metal ground
and meter red lead to pin1 red shows, 12vdc cranked
12vdc means 10 to 12vdc cranked, (battery does that)
then move red test lead to pin 2, black
cranked, 0v, if see 1 volt or ore the ground called.B26 is bad.
if the pump has 12vdc on it, you hear it,
do not run it dry its fuel cooled and fuel lubricated or you wreck it.
if it is heard to run you then see fuel spec fuel pressures.
or its bad. (30psi?)
Posted on Mar 13, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the float in your gas tank seems to have water in it....water is heavier than gas, that's why gas floats on top of water....try putting something like HEAT in it to dry up the water in your tank....
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
I suspect a worn out or dirty contact base on the ignition switch. Most Japanese ignition switches consist of two parts the key tumblers and a removable/replaceable contact base where all the electrics of the switch are kept. Many times this part can be taken off cleaned and put back in. If your vehicle has high miles you may be better off just replacing it.
Unfortunately there is the the possibility that you just have a wire that is broken inside the insulation or a bad plug end on one of the wires. this type of problem can be easy to bypass but hard to find. Did you bench test the fuel pump before installing it?
Posted on Nov 06, 2010
You may want to try to see if the car will start while you spray starting fluid down the throttle body. If it doesn't, the problem may not be the fuel pump at all. There is an idle air control valve bolted to the front of the throttle body that can keep the car from starting as well.
If the car starts with the starting fluid, you might want to change your fuel filter. It's mounted under the car near the passenger rear door.
Posted on Mar 14, 2011
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