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Anonymous Posted on Sep 14, 2012

Blinker and high beam fuse keeps blowing

Ive tried replacing the fuse, everytime i put a new fuse in it blows right away

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 56 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 13, 2008

SOURCE: volvo v40

real major problems, take the car to the nearest dealer and leave it there. tell them everything the car is doing and when it does it as much as you can. you have some real issues that probably only a volvo dealer will know about. you can also ask them about any recalls that have been made on your car and hope this is one of them....then it's free to repair.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 17, 2008

SOURCE: 1989 Volvo 740 audio fuse 26 blowing

I had a friend who owns a small dealership make a call and he received a wiring schematic that showed that the radio has an external audio amp located under the dash below the steering wheel. The amp was shorted.

Anonymous

  • 8 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 10, 2009

SOURCE: 1992 volvo 240 keeps blowing overdrive fuses

More likely that the solenoid in the transmission is shorted to ground. Has any new electronic equipment been installed recently, like stereo, alarm, etc?

c17hydro

Greg Bernett

  • 2993 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 12, 2009

SOURCE: 98 volvo S70 low beam bulb replaced still no light

Easiest way would be to go back to where you bought it and make sure the bulb is installed that you bought....and show them. Ask if you can get a new bulb and change it in front of him. Call the dealership and talk to parts, ask if, indeed the hi and lo are interchangeable.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 18, 2009

SOURCE: Power window blows fuse

Problem fixed as follows:
Purchase a package of five 30 amp ALC type fuses. Replace blown fuse #8 (30 amp). Perform the following test to determine if the problem is isolated to the driver-side front window.
-One at a time, (i.e. only push one window switch button at a time) operate each of the other three windows (passenger side and rear driver side), to determine if the problem is occuring only on the driver side window. If any of them blows the fuse, replace it with a spare and proceed to test the next window. Repeat for each of the three windows. The process described below may also resolve the issue on the other windows if any of them blew the fuse during this test.
-Now, operate the switch for the driver side window. It is expected to work for a brief period (<1sec), but may very quickly blow fuse #8. Replace fuse #8 with one of the new 30 amp ALC fuses.
Remove the door panel, by sliding the speaker forward and removing the three white clips on the bottom of the panel. Also, pry out the screw clip in the panel well, just to the rear of the switch assembly, and remove the plastic bracket that holds in the switch assembly. The panel can now be lifted off.
To access the window mechanism, remove the tape over the oval cutouts near the top. Also, temporarily pull back the white plastic cover over the bottom of the door. Disconnect the white electrical connector near the center of the door (has only a red and black wire for the regulator motor). Using a small battery (motorcycle battery) and jumper leads test the mechanism's operation by connecting the battery directly to the motor wires. Use insulated test clips on the male connector and be careful not to short the clips together. The window mechanism should operate, and by interchanging the jumper wires (reversing battery power polarity), you can make the window go both up and down. Only do this for brief periods of time, as the motor circuit is now uprotected, i.e. there is no fuse in this test circuit. If the movement of the glass seems strained over part of the travel path, apply WD-40 lubricant to the metal rotating pivot point. Also apply silicone spray to the rail guides for the sides of the glass (with the window in the up position) and to the metal horizontal tracks and plastic wheels near the top of the mechanism. Also, spray some silicone lubricant along the bottom of the window on the outside, just above the rubber stripping, and operate the window a couple of times. An up and down test should now result in very smooth and even window movement. Reconnect the motor power wire to its mating connector, replace the tape and white plastic cover, and then replace the door panel. The mechanism should work smoothly, and the fuse should not blow. Total cost: $3.03 for fuses and a little WD-40 and silicone spray which you probably keep on hand.

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Highbeams do not work on Elantra GT 2004... regular beams work fine. Fuse keeps popping.. Any thoughts?

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You have a short. you will need patience to route the wires from the harness to the light source, and to inspect for frail damaged wires.
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Trying to find out whats wrong. it keeps blowing the fuse in a 1997 yukon

You will only find that problem
with a wiring diagram

You know the circuit,and the fuse
tells you, you have a short or high
current

It doesn't keep blowing,
you keep putting a new
one in, so it will blow,
instead of diagnosing
and repairing the system

With the wire schematic you
go right to the most logical item
and replace
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Every time I switch my headlights from low beams to high beams the fuse blows to the right headlight

Seems like you have wires touching on the high beam circut its shorting out and blowing the fuse, remove the cover (where the bulb goes) and check no bare wires are touching also check the wires around the switch for high beams make sure all is good and nothing touching, Failing all that get a new switch, hope this helps
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