No brake fluid to right front wheel on my 2004 hyndia sanota

Bleed brakes starting with rt rear then lft rear then right front then left front. Make sure you have a large can of brake fluid and watch fluid closely and add fluid as required

Check your brake lines sounds like a brake issue is it a 4x4 check your axle seals also.

check your pads they mat be low

In this case, you will need to leak the for wheels, never leak only one or two wheels when adjusting the breaks. If the leaking continues you need to check the conduit for potential damages. If pedal stay soft after checking everything else, check the break fluid unit. The unit has a piston if I'm not wrong. The piston has some parts that are of rubber material which can wear out or get damaged.

It sounds like you have air in your brake lines. This is usually caused by a very low brake fluid in the master cyclinder.
To fix this problem fill up the master cyclinder with brake fluid and bleed the front wheel brake cyclinders until the air bubbles are removed. Keep the master cyclinder topped up with brake fluid. Then bleed the rear wheel brake cyclinders until the air bubbles are removed. Don't forget to top up the brake fluid in the master cyclinder.

Yes. It's easy to get air into the other lines. It's also a good time to make sure you have good, new brake fluid. If you didn't already, **** out the stuff in the reservoir and fill it with new, clean stuff. Now, go to your local auto parts store and get a one man brake bleeder, if you don't have one. It's a huge time saver. Starting with the rear passenger wheel, bleed it until you get new, clean fluid. Keep an eye on the reservoir and don't let it get low or you'll get air in and have to start over. Move on to the rear drivers wheel, and repeat the procedure. Next is the front passenger wheel, and last is the front driver's side wheel. Now you will have clean, new fluid in all 4 brakes, and an air-free system.

1. Put your car on a level spot for safety and start your car Sienna.
2. For left front rotor, turn your steering wheel to the left all the way and stop the engine. DO NOT put emergency brake on! Put stopping blocks on the passenger front front, rear right and rwear left for safety.
3. Half loosen all front left tire nuts and jack up the left front then loosen all nuts and take the wheel off.
4. Use a 3" G-clamp from Lowes, Home Depot or any store near you, press against brake cylinder so that brake fluid flows back to its reservoir
4. Remove one bolt on the caliper and the other bolt loosen and lift the caliper with the other bolt on and rest on a block. Do not take the rubber hose off nor attend to loosen any brake fluid pipes and nuts.
5. Remove brake pads and remove the nuts on the rotor, done.
If you need further assitance please let me know and if this assisted you please feel free to rate the solution accordingly. Thanks, Midwest-tek

To bleed brakes on your particular vehicle is the same as it's been for Years. Start at the wheel furthest away from the Master Cylinder. (a helper is needed to do this unless you have a pressurized brake bleeding unit). Start the car and have someone pump the brake up about ten times and hold the brake pedal down. Then at your right rear wheel, open the bleeder and allow the air and brake fluid to squirt out. Close the bleeder while your helper still has his foot on the brake and repeat until nothing but brake fluid comes out...then move to your left rear, right front and finally left front doing the same thing. Between going to another wheel, have your helper check the master cylinder's fluid level for if it goes dry during your bleeding operation, then you'll just be putting air back into the system. A couple of words of caution here...the first is that brake fluid is highly corrosive to paint, so make sure you immediately wipe it from painted surfaces and number two: DO NOT USE$ OLD BRAKE FLUID WHILE PERFORMING THIS OPERATION! Brake fluid has a quality about it that it absorbs moisture from the air...or the humidity. In this case, you're introducing water into your brake system which means all metal parts in your braking system that's in contact with this poor mixture will eventually fail due to rust. Yes, rust will form from old brake fluid with moisture in it and can cause a metal piston in a brake caliper to "freeze" causing a violent jerking of the wheel when applying brakes normally while driving. ALWAYS use fresh brake fluid (unopened), when performing a job such as this.

Hope this Helps,

~Stillin~

"Still living on the Right Side of Dirt..."

grinding on front wheel is caused by 2 things. a bad or loose wheel bearing,or worn out brakes, have them both checked You might also want to check the level of fluid in the power steering reservoir - low or lack of fluid will also cause a noise (although more of a whining than a grinding).
This can also be caused by worn or damaged central velocity joints if the vehicle is front wheel or four wheel drive.

Sounds like you still have air in your brake lines. Make sure all your brake lines are tight. Then bleed again. Bleed the trouble side first, meaning right side, then go to front left, back left then back right, make sure that your brake fluid is also full