Where is the timing chain on a 1996 Saturn SL?

SOURCE: replace spark plug wires 1996 saturn sl series

engine side 1234/coil side 4123,all left to right.

Donnie Matney

• 426 Answers
• Posted on Nov 30, 2009

SOURCE: does my 2001 saturn sl 1.9l have a timing belt or chain?

It is a chain and its not the easiest but it could be worse.It is as follows:
1.9L SOHC Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Right front wheel and splash shield
   NOTE: Place a 1 in. x 1 in. x 2 in. long block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
   • 3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
   • Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
   • Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
   • A/C compressor from the bracket and set aside with the lines attached
   • Camshaft cover
   • Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
   • Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
   • Remove or disconnect the following:
     • Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
     • Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
     • Front cover oil seal from the cover
     NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past Top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
     
   • Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
   • Remove or disconnect the following:
     • Timing guides and tensioner
     • Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
     • Crankshaft sprocket
     To install:
     
   • Inspect the chain for wear and damage. Check the inside diameter of the chain, it should be no more than 16.77 in. (426mm). Inspect the chain guides for wear or cracks and the timing sprockets for teeth or key wear. Replace components as necessary.
   • Verify that the crankshaft keyway is positioned 90 degrees clockwise past TDC (keyway at 3 o'clock). The keyway should align with the split between the bearing cap and engine block.
   • Bring the camshaft up to No. 1 TDC by loosely installing the sprocket and rotating the sprocket until the timing pin can be inserted. The camshaft contains wrench flats to assist in turning the shaft. The dowel pin should be at 12 o'clock when the camshaft is at TDC.
   • Install the crankshaft sprocket, then rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 90 degrees up to No. 1 TDC (keyway at 12 o'clock).
   • Position the chain under the crankshaft sprocket and over the camshaft sprocket. The timing chain should be positioned so that 1 silver link plate aligns with the reference mark on the camshaft sprocket and the other aligns with the downward tooth (at the 6 o'clock position) on the crankshaft sprocket. The letters FRT on the camshaft sprocket must face forward, away from the cylinder head and excess chain slack should be located on the tensioner side of the block.
   • Install or connect the following:
     • Timing pin to verify proper alignment of the camshaft and sprocket. Torque the sprocket bolt to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
     NOTE: Do not allow the camshaft retaining bolt to torque against the timing pin or cylinder head damage will result.
     • Timing chain guides with the words FRONT facing out. Install the fixed guide first and verify the chain is snug against the guide, then install the pivot guide. Torque the bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm) and verify that the pivot guide moves freely
     • Retract the tensioner plunger and pin the ratchet lever using a 1⁄8 in. No. 31 drill bit inserted in the alignment hole at the bottom front of the component
     • Tensioner. Torque the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm), then remove the drill bit
   • Make one final check to verify all components are properly timed, then remove all timing pins.
   • Install or connect the following:
     • Seat a new front cover oil seal using the installation tool with a press
     • If the engine front cover casting or assembly is replaced, the 3 torque axis mount studs should also be replaced. Torque the new studs to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Right front wheel and splash shield
   NOTE: Place a 1 x 1 x 2 in. (25 x 25 x 51mm) block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
   • 3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
   • Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
   • Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
   • A/C compressor from the bracket and set it to the side with the lines attached
   • Camshaft cover
4. Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
5. Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E or equivalent, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
6. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
   • Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
   • Front cover oil seal from the cover
   NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
   
7. Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
   • Timing guides and tensioner
   • Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
   • Crankshaft sprocket

Johnny Brown

• 5763 Answers
• Posted on Mar 11, 2010

SOURCE: does the 1999 saturn sl have a timing chain or a

it has a timing chain,

SOURCE: how do i fix a timing chain on a 1996 saturn sl

Providing the car is still running if it has stopped as a result of the timing chain, get a junk yard motor. This motor is more than likely scrap at this point. However, these are some of the things that needs to be done. Belt needs to be taken off 15mm. A/C compressor moved out of the way. Wheel needs to be taken off of passenger side, then the plastic covers removed. Take a pair of wire cutters and pry the first plastic inside button out, be careful not to cut them. Then the second plastic piece can be taken out with a screwdriver. The remainder can be pried with a screwdriver, but remember how they came out so that you will be able to put them back the same way. The valve pan coverwill need to be removed, further instructions will be at the bottom of the page. The power steering bolts removed so you can put it back out of the way...you need to move the pulley around to gain access to the bolts...13mm;1 on bottom 2 on side of block and the 4th one top left usually that one doesn't have to be taken off, your choice. The water pump pulley will need to be taken off...10mm bolts, I like to place another box end wrench on one bolt to hold it in place while using another wrench on the bolt be taken off. The alternator should be OK left where it is. You will be better off to take the bottom motor mount bolt off which I believe is a 13mm. Then jack the motor up after taking off the top motor mount which are 4)15mm. There are 4) 10mm bolts on the bottom of the oil pan that will be easier to get too if you take the motor mount bolt off, just the one and raise the motor a little bit. And you might want to raise the motor up/dn for taking the tension pull off which consist of (2) 10mm bolts. There are several 10mm bolts on the timing chain cover and 1) 8mm bolt in the very center of the cover. That one will need some RTV on it when replace to help in the leaking protection. The crank bolt will need to be removed. An air impact is best for this, but if all else fells, an acetylene torch can be used to heat up that bolt until it turns orange...keep in mind that at this point the oil will be hot and will want to spew back at you so keep a face shield on and arms and hands protected if you have to go this far and a fire extinguisher of some kind ready...a large wet towel placed over the speed gun might offer the best protection. The seal on this crank will need to be replaced. There are two ways to do this. If there is noticeable wear...fingernail is able to catch on the groove, you can get a speedy sleeve which is about $40 that you can slide over the pulley, which would need to be taken in to a bearing/seal company to gage to get the right size, or you can try off/setting the seal in such a way that it doesn't ride on the groove which would be the cheapest route. After you get the chain off there is an oil pump on the left side that the piston will need to be pushed back in and a 3/16 drill bit placed in the hole to keep it back until you have got the chain in place...don't forget to take it back out before placing the cover back on since it won't let you anyway. The sprocket on the bottom, which I like to replace with a new one as well, has a mark for the crank that will face up at 12:00. The chain will go on the bottom sprocket first, then the top sprocket before you actually bolt the top bolt on. The mark on the top sprocket will also go on at 12:00. You may need to keep relocating the chain until the top sprocket matches the final resting place before you bolt down. This can be done by using a drill bit and placing the bit in the hole on the left side of the sprocket and it will go into the block for alignment...make sure that the the letters FRT faces you when installing and snug the bolt down, but don't torque it with that pin in place since it will break it. The slippers can be put on last; however, I would leave one side on, preferably the right one until you got the chain on then replace them as you take them off so you don't get lost...the slippers may work better be placed on prior to the chain installation that will be your choice. Now, everything starts going back together in reverse of your take down procedure, but you will want to take sand paper and rough all of the surfaces including the valve pan area. I like to take a soft rage and place brake cleaner on it and wipe every area down good before RTV is put on. This is the most complicate thing to do, but is important for a good seal. Also, take a screwdriver and clean the grooves out of the oil pan and the valve pan cover...do a real good job in this area and again it will be worth it later. Use RTV and place a bead on the timing chain cover and let it dry for about 1/2 hour or until tacky. You may need to jack the motor up or down to get the best approach to getting the cover on. I would suggest to make a dry run first to get a feel for the cover since you will want the best clearance after the RTV is on. Use Vaseline on the crank seal to keep it from running dry until the oil gets to it. You can put a bead of RTV on the oil pan separately if you like. Put the 8mm bolt on first in the middle with some RTV so it won't leak there as I mentioned earlier. The valve pan will need to be done the same way, but last. Note: you need to get some never-seize at the Auto parts store and at least put it on the bolts that go to go to the motor mounts, tension pulley and power steering pump as well as the valve pan cover bolts which require a #30 torques wrench to get off. They too can be stubborn and can be heated up with a acetylene torch ( a hand torch usually won't get hot enough to accomplish these tasks) until they have a light color to them, but they will need rubbers replaced if this is done...you need to check the availability at the Saturn dealer before doing this. Of course, don't forget to change the oil. There are some other things that I didn't bother to mention that should be obvious to do when you get there...just thought I would mention the most difficult items.

SOURCE: How to Fix a Transmission Fluid Leak for a 1996 Sa...

Most of the leaks that occur on the transmission is at the lines coming from the radiator. Take some brake cleaner in a spray can, I like to use this rather than carb cleaner since it evaporate quick, but spray the area well and clean it off and drive it and now look for any new fluid around the area where the lines plug into the transmission. The one that show a sign, will need to be replaced. They can be taken out of the trany easily, by squeezing the plastic fitting and pulling the line out, but I like to make a plug out of a stick or something to plug the hole since fluid will run out of the trany once you do this.Tthe one in the radiator will be another problem. I would put some PB blaster some type of pentatrating oil on it and let it set for a couple of days and repeat this process a couple of times before attempting to remove the line.