Master cylinder is stuck to booster on 99 windstar and all 3 bolts are removed... Help?

Step 1 - Locate the Brake Booster The brake booster is located adjacent to the master cylinder. There will be 4 mounting screws protruding through the booster. The booster is also attached to the brake pedal in the interior of the car. This is where you will start work in replacing the brake booster.
Step 2 - Remove the Brake Booster Start by locating the booster rod that goes through the firewall and is attached to the brake pedal on the interior of the car. Typically, there is a cotter pin that secures the rod to the pedal, but there may also be nuts. When removing any fasteners in the course of this job, make sure to retain the nuts, cotter pins, and various other fasteners as the new brake booster will not come with replacement fasteners.
Remove the fasteners, whether it is a cotter pin or nuts. Slide the rod off the brake pedal. Disconnect the vacuum brake line that connects to the booster. In the engine compartment, there are four bolts securing the booster to the master cylinder and firewall. Loosen and remove these nuts. Remove the nuts (there are usually 2 in addition to the 4 that have already been removed) that secure the brake booster to the master cylinder. Wiggle the brake booster away from the master cylinder. There is a seal between the two. You will need to keep this as the new part does not generally come with another one. Remove the brake booster.
Step 3 - Install the New Brake Booster Set the new brake booster on the four mounting screws. Tighten the nuts on the bolts to the master cylinder. Insert the push rod through the firewall. Start these by hand so that the threads are not ruined. Reattach the vacuum hose, then the nuts to the 4 mounting screws. Reattach the push rod to the brake pedal by whatever means it was originally secured with, whether by cotter pin or by bolts.
Step 4 - Bleed the Brakes You will need to bleed the brakes after replacing the brake booster

Instructions

• Mark the location of all of the brake lines running into the brake master cylinder using masking tape and permanent marker.
  
• 2Slide the tube nut wrench over the brake line running to the brake master cylinder. Orient the wrench so that it fits over the end of the tube nut.
  
• 3
  
• Turn the nut counterclockwise to remove it from the master cylinder.
  
• 4Pull the brake lines out of the master cylinder.
  
• 5Remove the bolts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster.
  
• 6Remove the mounting bolts on the brake booster that secure it to the firewall.
  
• 7Remove the cotter pin running through the head of the pin that connects the brake booster diaphragm to the back of the brake pedal with a pair of pliers.
  
• 8Remove the brake booster diaphragm pin.
  
• 9Remove the bolts inside the driver foot well that secure the brake booster to the firewall.
  
• 10Install a new power brake booster. Installation is the reverse of removal
  

There is no way that your proportioning valve is going to affect your engine idle. However, a leaking master cylinder and the resulting damaged diaphram in the vacuum brake booster will. Remove the master cylinder and look for brake fluid in the booster assembly. If there is fluid in there, replac both the master cylinder and the booster.

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Look underneath the dash and find the connection from the brake booster to the top of the brake pedal. Take off the clip that holds the pedal to the linkage with your hands. Unbolt the brake booster from the firewall with the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket.Unbolt the master cylinder from the booster with an open-end wrench. Pull the master cylinder off of the booster, then pull the vacuum line off of the brake booster. Take the booster away from the engine bay and discard it.Install the replacement booster onto the Suburban and bolt it in place with the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Reconnect the brake pedal to the brake booster with the factory clip.Mount the master cylinder on the booster with the open-end wrench and the factory bolts. Plug the vacuum line into the check valve on the replacement booster. Pump the brakes several times with your foot with the engine running to verify that the booster builds vacuum.
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The passenger stud has a second nut on it behind that stupid bracket. One nut ontop the bracket, one under the bracket.

HI
Remove the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder,,,,
Remove the 2 bolts that hold the master to the brake booster...
Remove the master cylinder...
Install the new mastercylinder...
install the 2 bolts removed....
bleed the master with bleed kit that comes with the new master...
install the 2 brake lines..
bleed brakes.....
Let me know if i can help more

1. Step 1 Mark the brake lines coming into and out of the master cylinder using masking tape and permanent marker.
   
2. Step 2 Orient the tube wrench so that it grabs the end of the nut by first sliding it over the brake line.
   
3. Step 3 Pull the brake lines out of the master cylinder.
   
4. Step 4 Unbolt the two bolts that hold the master cylinder to the brake booster.
   
5. Step 5 Slide the master cylinder off the brake booster.
   
6. Step 6 Remove the bolts that hold the brake booster to the firewall.
   
7. Step 7 Remove the cotter pin from the pin holding the back of the brake pedal to the master cylinder.
   
8. Step 8 Slide the brake booster to brake pedal pin out of the mounting bracket.
   
9. Step 9 Pull the brake booster off the firewall.
   
10. Step 10 Install the new brake booster. Installation is the reverse of removal.
    

i do agree with the haynes manual.

First off, pb blaster is your best friend for brake line bolts. You want to **** as much of the brake fluid out of the resivour as you can, Then you need to get the brake lines off the master cylinder that is on there. make sure you use the right size flare nut wrench when you are taking the lines off. rounding off brake line bolts is not fun, trust me. once the lines are off, ( turn counter clockwise) Just make sure you have a towel to put under the brake lines. for excess fluid. then with a ratchet, and extension, and socket you need to take the master off the brake booster. Also disconnect any electrical connectors and keep them clear ofthe brake fluid. When you have the 2 bolts out of the brake booster, the master should pull out and then your ready to work on installing the new one. when you get a new ,master, you can either bench bleed it, or if you want to, you can also install the new one, line up the hole in the brake booster, put the 2 bolts back on, then you need to bleed the master. Most come with instructions.

1. Begin by removing the cap.
2. Follow the directions that come with the kit to select the suitable adapters, and then connect the adapters and tubes to the ports on the cylinder. The other ends of the tube extend down into the master cylinder, and are held in place by a plastic clip.
3. With the bleeder kit installed, fill the master cylinder about halfway with new brake fluid. Use a large screwdriver to depress the valve assembly inside the master cylinder. If you do not have a vise you can mount the master cylinder on the vacuum brake booster and bleed the master cylinder.
4. Small bubbles will appear in the fluid. Continue working the valve assembly until no more bubbles appear. This indicates that the cylinder has been thoroughly bled.

once it is bled then you hook up the brake lines, and bleed all the brakes. starting with the furthest from the master cylinder. Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. make sure you check the brakes to make sure there is no air, better to be safe then sorry. also, check anything you had disconnected, to make sure it is not leaking.

In simple terms, by just looking at it, you can figure out how to do the master cylinder, but to be safe, get a repair manual.

if its just the master cylinder then there are 2 bolts and the lines and thats it. you might have to tap it a little do to rust or because it sticks over time. if its the master cylinder and the brake booster then you will have to disconnect the booster from the brake pedal on the inside

smack with a hammer...been stuck ther since new so take a lil finesse to get it off